Multiple Warning Lights

sommergibile · #1 08-08-2006, 01:29 PM

After driving for a couple of minutes the steering,battery, ABS, Stop lamp , brake, and air bag light would come on and a little later go out. This happened for a couple of days then one day the car turned off while the lights were on. To me this meant the alternator had gone so I replaced it. But now the lights come on almost right after I start it. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks.

Earthworm · #2 08-08-2006, 01:50 PM

Check that both battery terminals are securely connected as well as all the connections to the alternator.

sommergibile · #3 08-08-2006, 02:29 PM

Just checked and all connections are tight.

Earthworm · #4 08-08-2006, 02:36 PM

Then you're going to have to measure the voltages with the engine running and the engine off. You may want to get the battery and alternator tested somewhere.

b3lha · #5 08-09-2006, 02:57 AM

Recifier Problem

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...0&postcount=17

subru92svx · #6 08-09-2006, 07:27 AM

I had a similar problem with my svx. One day all my MIL lights started comming on then shutting off randomly. They never came on fully lit thought they would come on very dim and would get brighter and dimmer then just shut off. I talked to my local Subaru dealer and they called it "ghosts in the system" and told me it was most likely my alternator. So while one was on order I was driveing home at night and all of a sudden every light in my car just went real dim and that was the end of my alternator. I installed the new one the next day and it took care of the problem. Haven't had any issues with the MIL lights since. I would just suggest doing what everyone else has said. Check all connections, wires, etc and maybe have alternator tested somewhere.

Trevor · #7 08-09-2006, 08:03 AM

Failure of diodes in the alternator results in the often reported simultaneous illumination of several trouble lights. Lack of rectification means alternating current is superimposed on line and this bypasses blocking diodes in the circuit to the trouble lights thus energising them.

sommergibile · #8 08-09-2006, 12:10 PM

The alternator is new and I had it checked out anyway and it was fine also had the battery checked and it was fine. So are you guys saying the new alternator is bad? Wouldn't the test show a bad rectifer? Also I remember before all the lights coming on that I had the Stop Lamp warning light coming on when I touched the brake but no bulbs were out. I don't know if this would be part of it.

Jetrooster · #9 08-11-2006, 04:29 AM

Had the same problem with my -92. Turned out I had a tired battery..changed battery and the problem went away.

dannmarr · #10 08-11-2006, 07:51 PM

When I had my alternator checked, the results were different from when it was in the car and when it was out of the car. The true test was when it was in the car.

Trevor · #11 08-11-2006, 08:09 PM

Unplug the alternator. The engine should run temporarily on the battery. You should then have only battery/charging fault indication. If your problem with other indicator lights being illuminated disappears, you will know that the alternator is faulty in the manner I have described.

If the fault remains, report back here with more exact information as to which and every trouble light is involved.

htyei · #12 05-30-2007, 05:22 PM

I had the usual christmas lights issue and unplugged my alternator, All my trouble lights went away exactly as you described.

My battery light didnt light up because I just had it checked and carged at Pep Boys, I assume.

I guess replacing my alternator is the only option at this pt. (or take it apart)

Trevor · #13 05-30-2007, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by htyei

I had the usual christmas lights issue and unplugged my alternator, All my trouble lights went away exactly as you described.

My battery light didnt light up because I just had it checked and carged at Pep Boys, I assume.

I guess replacing my alternator is the only option at this pt. (or take it apart)

I say again as earlier in this thread:-

The dash indicator lights test circuit, incorporates blocking diodes to eliminate a sneak circuit which would otherwise exist. In an event involving faults within the alternator rectifier network, alternating current is induced on line. The result is pulses of reverse voltage, which pass the blocking diodes in the test circuit and energise the indicator lights.

It is possible to replace the diode assembly, or even a single diode, if you know exactly what you are about, but a lesson as to how is beyond the scope of this facility.

htyei · #14 05-30-2007, 11:00 PM

Hi Trevor, I've been busy reading all the electrical threads ( I dont pretend to understand them all), and youre posts have been very helpful.

On a whim, I decided to take the car to Autozone and get the alternator checked. According to them, there is no response from the alternator, and it could be a ground problem...or does that just mean the alternator is dead as a doorknob?

I've measure the the car off voltage difference between the battery posts (12.46 on a charged battery) and from the positive battery post to the end of of the tan connector on the alternator and measure 12.20, so it doesnt seem to be a connection problem to me, but then my electronics experience is pretty shaky.

Anything else I can check easily with a 10 dollar multimeter?

rivman1243 · #15 05-31-2007, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by htyei

Hi Trevor, I've been busy reading all the electrical threads ( I dont pretend to understand them all), and youre posts have been very helpful.

On a whim, I decided to take the car to Autozone and get the alternator checked. According to them, there is no response from the alternator, and it could be a ground problem...or does that just mean the alternator is dead as a doorknob?

I've measure the the car off voltage difference between the battery posts (12.46 on a charged battery) and from the positive battery post to the end of of the tan connector on the alternator and measure 12.20, so it doesnt seem to be a connection problem to me, but then my electronics experience is pretty shaky.

Anything else I can check easily with a 10 dollar multimeter?

thats not a completey charged battery if those are the voltage readings you getting. is the battery new?