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  #1  
Old 10-24-2005, 07:02 PM
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92SVXLS-LDC 92SVXLS-LDC is offline
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buncha random questions... please help

okay so i got a full diagnostic of my car... from just a local shop...
1)both inner tie rods need replacing, they quoted me over 300.... then an alignment on top of it, how expensive SHOULD the parts and labor be???

2) i have a decent oil leak coming from both sides of my engine and what the technician could only determind would be referred to as the valve cover gasket, but figured it was probably called something else... what would it be called? and how much would a subaru shop/dealer charge... (i dont trust just any shop with somethin like that i guess)

3)i hear a belt squealing, and in 2 days its gotten much worse from nothing, to LOUD and rubber smelly.. its much worse when i just start the car and MUCH MUCH louder when i turn the steering wheel within the first 3 minutes of starting up the car... power steering pulley?? how difficult? i see the belts and it LOOKS pretty easy, but i'm 3 days experienced with this car and could be very wrong

again, thanks for ANY help as much or as little as you can offer
-drew
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:30 PM
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1) Inner tie Rod ends are about $52 ea SRP from Subaru, I seem to recall paying about $35 for the repair and then $30 for the alignment.

2)They are the valve cover gaskets, not that complicated for any 1/2 decent mechanic, but it can be difficult to work in the cramped space alongside the engine.

3) To remove the belt that runs the PS and Alt, you need to loosen the nut in the center of the idler pulley, and then use the bolt between that pulley and the Alt to move the idler pulley. I think there is a "How To" somewhere that has photos and better descriptions...

When the belt is off turn the PS pulley, the idler pulley and the Alt pulley, they should both turn fairly freely. If not there is something wrong with that device.

It's not a good sign that your smelling burning rubber????

It sounds like you could also be mis-hearing it. It could be the PS Pump sucking air through a bad O-Ring. Do a search for that, there are a lot of posts on that topic.
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:43 PM
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Drew

Welcome to the site. Got to the How-To Documents and look for what you want to do. There are some for just about everything.

The belt may be loose and is slipping and that is why it is squeeling. Be sure to check the belts for wear. You may want to replace them if they seem hard or show wear. Good luck.
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:08 AM
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I would definitely take a look at the PS o-ring first. it's a relatively simple job.

check in the how to's

or check the PS fluid level (our cars use dexron 3 ATF, not power steering fluid: found that out the hard way)
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:46 AM
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How many miles on the car? You may look into one of my recent threads involving replacing timing belt and seals/gaskets to solve 2 of your problems. Do a search under oil leak or timing belt. It will get pricey at least if you use subaru dealership....plan on somewhere over 1000 but less than 1800. I say up towards 1800 because the p/s pump is around 400 dollars alone. Labor was quoted to me for my repair at 15 hours.
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:02 PM
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146k miles on the car...
i read through the records and timing belt was done right around 90k i think, maybe i'll start saving
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2005, 03:18 PM
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PS Pump at autozone....

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WITHOUT RESERVOIR 5242 LLT Core $33.00 Price $99.99

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Old 10-27-2005, 12:17 PM
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When my belt started slipping it was due to the tensioner pulley bearing failing. My dad found a way to replace just the bearing for me (after I ordered the new pulley).

I have parts on order right now to change all the valve cover gaskets and washers. 6 gaskets and 20 washers (I hope). That's definitely the issue and it's common.

It may not be inner tie-rods but possibly the rack. Hopefully Beav or Harvey can help to clarify how to tell the difference.
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Old 10-27-2005, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
When my belt started slipping it was due to the tensioner pulley bearing failing. My dad found a way to replace just the bearing for me (after I ordered the new pulley).

I have parts on order right now to change all the valve cover gaskets and washers. 6 gaskets and 20 washers (I hope). That's definitely the issue and it's common.

It may not be inner tie-rods but possibly the rack. Hopefully Beav or Harvey can help to clarify how to tell the difference.

The inner tie rod joint is adjustable, if it has in and out play. Looks like you just pull the boot back from the rack, to get at the joint to adjust it. Never done it to this car, but have adjusted others.

Harvey.
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