Seat belt options

[SVX JAZZ]

I am about 90% sure the main seatbelt module is bad. After reviewing posts, oiling tracks, taking apart and testing limiter switches (had a pro look at it) its narrowed down. Cost new is $265 (4 left in the US) and used is around $75.

Here are the two ideas that I have.

1 Wire a switch to the motor so I can control it manually.

2 Install grey manual seatbelts from another Subaru.

Has anyone done either and have any opinions or ideas?

P.S. Passenger side works fine. Honestly not a big fan of autobelts. I wear glasses and wife has long hair. Both get pulled and mangled too often.

Here's your best (and cheapest) option:


Look in your owners manual for instructions on how to move a non-functioning seatbelt. Move it to the very end of it's rearward travel. Now, use the emergency release button to disconnect the belt from the latch. Now when you drive your car all you have to do is reconnect the belt to the latch.





Dave

[SVX JAZZ]

Dave,

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, been doing that for a while. No big deal for me but wife is short. She has a real hard time reaching back and unlatching the belt. Thanks for the tip though.

Paul

[STORMINORMAN]

...of just having the automatic shoulder belt latches stay in the upper, locked position!

My symptoms are a little different: most of the time the seatbelt moves as normal, open the door it goes forward, close the door, it moves back... Warning lights are normal.

But, recently...

My problem is that after turning off the ignition & pulling the key, opening the door makes the latch move back: then a pause, 4 or 5 seconds later there is a "click-click-click" sound (probably a relay?) coming from the trunk area. This is the area of ECU "controller", right?

This seems to be exactly in tune with the Security System light flashing and the "door open, key in ignition" chime.

Turn the key to "ON" or "START" and it stops.

Fiddle a bit with the key in the ignition, move the wheel, open and shut the door, start and then turn off the car, drive for a minute, everything works ok... 'Till the next time, that is.

For those of you with prior experience, does this not seem to be either the door switch or the rear limiter switch? How do you get to the door switch? Upon occasion when I close the door after sucessfully shutting down the car (no "click-click-click") the latch will try to move from the forward position to the back position in a series of short, jerky movements when the door is shut. When it gets to the back it then continues with the 'ol "click-click-click"!!!

How do I get the shoulder belt latches to remain in the "UP" position? The instructions in the Owner's Manual using the crank seems to work as far as getting the latch to the rear (this was never my problem) but the first time you open the door again the latch moves back to the forward position! Is there a wire to cut, part of the harness to unplug or a fuse to pull?

To further SVX JAZZ's original question, has anybody changed over to the manual belts? Aftermarket harness?

Cheers!

[SVX JAZZ]

I took the inside back panel off (took bottom seat cushion out first) then unplugged the motor. Then it would allow me to crank it and keep it in the back position.

Interestingly I tried plugging my rear window switch up to the motor like another member did and the power to my window is off.

Manual belts look like the best alternative…

[STORMINORMAN]

...which plug you pulled? As I recall there are three running to the motor area...

Wire colors, count or plug ID would be much appreciated!

Norm

p.s. Thanks in advance!

[SVX JAZZ]

Pull the one that has a red wire. I believe it has a black wire and a red wire. You won't hurt anything by pulling all three. Wish I could be of more help.

Hope you can get it cranked back and get it to stay.

Paul

[ensteele]

On one of my 93s, the belt travels to the forward position and then stays there. I crank it back and it goes forward again. I have worn out the little thing that you put the wrench on. I am going to try to install another whole track, motor and other stuff.

[manofmayo]

Mine has been sticking recently too, either I have to wait 5 seconds, then it moves or it doesn;t at all until I get back in the car. Right now its no big deal. No noises at all.

Can I use silcone spray to 'unstick' it?

[nubs]

Originally posted by ensteele
I am going to try to install another whole track, motor and other stuff.

Hey Earl, I have a complete set of tracks I took out of my 92 if you are interested. They worked perfectly. I switched over to manual and don't need them anymore.

[Earthworm]

I thought of an idea. What about getting a newer shifter surround with the central locking switch and wire that to the seatbelts for just an emergency...or remove the automatic functionality altogether.

[alia176]

Whoa there Mike,

How about enlightening us on the auto to manual conversion?

Ali

Originally posted by nubs


Hey Earl, I have a complete set of tracks I took out of my 92 if you are interested. They worked perfectly. I switched over to manual and don't need them anymore.

It's very easy and is a direct bolt-in fit to convert the auto to manual.

Mike

[alia176]

the suspense is killing me.....! Let's hear more pls!

Originally posted by Green1995SVX
It's very easy and is a direct bolt-in fit to convert the auto to manual.

Mike

[want-a-fast-svx]

where do i get the manual belts from? I'm assuming subaru , but hopefully someone will chime in here. I can't stand the non-automatic seatbelt.