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  #1  
Old 01-22-2004, 11:07 PM
sputnik
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serious problems

I recently had my cv's replaced by my home mechanic in maine(used parts, rebuilt), but after i got the car back it had this strange vibration when i was in gear and stopped, and the same vibration at about 2100 rpm and again above 3, it's hard to describe but the best way i can explain it is it feels (at a stop) like it's a diesel (the whole car shakes, doors especially and the little plastic door that covers the cd player) it was annoying at first, but i was due back to florida for school in a few days, so i drove it back with the vibration. well, it seems, the vibration is getting worse. i just got back from a drive to orlando from here in daytona and it sounds like something is grinding or its running rough. my first though was that i was running it out of oil (oh no!) because it leaks a lot, but i checked it and the level was fine. i dont know if it's an engine problem or maybe a transmission mount or whatever, but it wasnt there before i got the cv's replaced, and it's getting worse. anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? and if it's something serious, is there anyone who can tell me where to take it down here to get it fixed?

thanks,
mike
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2004, 12:20 AM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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the svx cvs are a unique thing. they have a pin driven through the center of the avle and the shaft on your diff. Now the stock ones came packed w/ sylicone to keep pressure soe they did not fall out, the remanufactured ones come with a basic roll pin. there is a possibility that ur mech installed the roll pins and maybe one or both fell out. ask ur mech what he did w/ the old ones and if he installed the new ones. I did mine recently and i reinstalled the old one because they are better quality. If infact the new pins fell out, be very careful driving it because ur axles could fall right out of ur diff. just check w/ ur mech and find out cuz if there is a load one a unsecured axle it could cause movement therefore causing these vibrations. If someone else has another opinion please feel free to prove me wrong.
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2004, 08:08 PM
rcraven32
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roll pin

Has anyone had trouble getting the pin back in? I have the new ones in and the holes lined up, but can't get the damn pin driven back in.

Any tips or tricks.

Hard to talk the wife into letting me go snowmobiling tomorrow if the car is not done.

Ryan
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  #4  
Old 01-24-2004, 10:08 PM
rperry03
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Re: roll pin

Quote:
Originally posted by rcraven32
Has anyone had trouble getting the pin back in? I have the new ones in and the holes lined up, but can't get the damn pin driven back in.

Any tips or tricks.

Hard to talk the wife into letting me go snowmobiling tomorrow if the car is not done.

Ryan
You sure you don't have the axle 180° out? Try lining the chamford hole on the axle with the one on the diff.
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2004, 10:13 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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yea rotate it 180 if that is still a problem then squeeze one end of the ping so it will act as a wedge and wedge it in. After you do that try to flare it back out.
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2004, 03:14 PM
rcraven32
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Thanks

Thanks!

Amazingly I was able to put not just one, but both of axels on 180 degrees off.

I couldn't get lucky enough to get one on right.

They are in and done. Now for my next screw up. I started one of my lug nuts wrongand stripped the piss out of the stud and nut.

Ryan

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  #7  
Old 01-26-2004, 09:17 AM
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Re: serious problems

Quote:
Originally posted by sputnik
I recently had my cv's replaced by my home mechanic in maine(used parts, rebuilt), but after i got the car back it had this strange vibration when i was in gear and stopped, ...

thanks,
mike
It seems unlikely that the CV joints are causing the vibration that occurs when the car is not moving. Your CV joints may have been incorrectly installed, but I think there may be other problems too. What happens if the motor is running, and the car is in Park?
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  #8  
Old 01-28-2004, 05:07 PM
rperry03
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Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by rcraven32
Thanks!

Amazingly I was able to put not just one, but both of axels on 180 degrees off.

I couldn't get lucky enough to get one on right.

They are in and done. Now for my next screw up. I started one of my lug nuts wrongand stripped the piss out of the stud and nut.

Ryan

Alright, that is a easy one. Go to the dealer and order a stud and lug nut. Take the rotor off, knock the stud out, undo all the 5mm allen bolts that hold the tone wheel on and pull out the old stud. Installation is in reverse order. Do you know how to install the stud in the hole?
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  #9  
Old 01-28-2004, 08:36 PM
sputnik
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It only vibrates in gear with the brakes on or while moving in gear, in park there is no vibration and same with neutral. What exactly do you mean they were installed incorrectly? is it dangerous to drive? I drove it from Maine to here in Daytona Beach with this problem, I hope I didnt make it worse or make it so i'll have to scrap the new axles.

thanks,
mike
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  #10  
Old 01-28-2004, 08:55 PM
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SVXRide SVXRide is offline
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Mike,
The key here is to get your car looked at ASAP. Any vibration of the type you've described will only get worse over time (as will the damage it is inflicting). If you're lucky, you've caught it in time and no permanent damage has been done. As previous posts have noted, the SVX is a unique vehicle and sometimes its "uniqueness" can bite you.
Good luck. Please post back after you've had things checked out/fixed.
-Bill
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2004, 10:24 PM
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Yeah, I think Bill has the right idea. If the vibration you mention with the car stationary and in gear is strong, then there is more than the axle shafts being 180 deg out of alignment.
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:: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ ::
1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold)

Visit my locker

SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.

Last edited by mbtoloczko; 01-28-2004 at 11:00 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2004, 10:27 PM
rcraven32
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Re: Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by rperry03


Alright, that is a easy one. Go to the dealer and order a stud and lug nut. Take the rotor off, knock the stud out, undo all the 5mm allen bolts that hold the tone wheel on and pull out the old stud. Installation is in reverse order. Do you know how to install the stud in the hole?
Oh I am a genius. I got all but one of the allen bolts out and stripped it. So I drilled the head off. I could see the bolt and knew I could get vise grips on it after I go the hub off.

Well I managed to break the Tone Wheel. Looks like $150 mess up. Not to mention 2 weeks waiting on the part.

Anybody Know if it is the same for any other Subaru?

Ryan
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2004, 04:46 AM
rperry03
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I do not know about the part being the same as others, but you do know that replacing the tone wheel is gonna be like doing the bearings? To replace the wheel you have to press out the hub. Then press it back in and I have never heard or seen anyone reuse the bearings after that.
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2004, 05:36 AM
rcraven32
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I have a stupid idea

Since the tone wheel only spins past the sensor and does not support any wieght, could I use JB Weld on it? It is a clean break and bewteen the teeth.

My theory is use as liittle as possible so it does not throw the balance off.

Can anyone tell me if this would work or not.

Ryan
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2004, 10:34 AM
gamblergw
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tone wheel

I read a post a few weeks ago about someone welding the tone wheel and they said it works fine.....Jim
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