Axel Question

[B 4 You]

My CV joints and axels are bad. They've been bad for as long as I can remember, I've just been too lazy to attend to it. My steering wheels vibrates after about 60mph, and with new tires and a good alignment, I think the only thing left to cause that would be either a bent rim or bad CV joints. It's not the rim, because it never vibrated like this before. Yes, I have done the figure-8 parking lot test for the CV joints. They failed. Anyway, how big of a job would I be getting myself into if I were to change them out myself? I'm not a grease monkey, but I love working on my car here and there, and I'm smart enough to figure things out. Tool-wise, I have all the power tools I would need, but only wheel ramps and jacks. I have no way of lifting the car more than a foot off the ground. Is it feasible for me to give this a shot, or would taking it to the mechanic be inexpensive enough for it to make sense? My budget is tight (college budget). Also, can someone recommend me a place to buy them for the best price and best quality? I don't need anything extra, just OEM CV joints and axels. Even advance auto has them (or claims to). Any input is appreciated.


P.S., could bad front wheels bearings cause my front end to vibrate? I don't think those have ever been replaced. If it could, it looks like I might have to replace both of those things...

[icingdeath88]

It's pretty doable, but a big challenge without an impact gun will be getting the axle nuts off. I have done it but I needed a 2 foot breaker bar with 4 foot pipe on the end of it and a bigger dude to stand on it.

I have one of the advance front axles and it has been ok so far (more than 2 years).

Personally, I would just take it to a shop, but one that I could sit there and watch. Each axle has a spring pin on the joint that connects to the spline from the transmission, other than that they are typical of CV axles to change. Take off wheel, remove axle nut, remove spring pin from transmission side of axle, undo ball joint from knuckle, slide axle off of transmission (may require pry bar, but not too bad) (make sure that when you're pulling the knuckle away from the car you aren't yanking on a brake line or an abs sensor wire), slide axle out of hub, install in reverse order. If you're doing it on jack stands, you will want to break loose the axle nuts (don't take them off all the way otherwise the wheel will fall off) with the car still on the ground. Take off the center cap and the little axle nut cover underneath it, and have a buddy press on the brakes with the e-brake up and the car NOT in park.

[davew833]

When I have done them it's easier for me to take the bolts out of the top of the hub where it connects to the strut and swing the hub down rather than separating the ball joint.

[Conn SVX]

go to how to do doc top right of this page. Look under. Suspension and the last one is. A good. Explanation of how to do it. I used. Thes instructions. Worked. Easy, I had a lift and it took 45 min. I used a Parts America short axel

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by davew833

When I have done them it's easier for me to take the bolts out of the top of the hub where it connects to the strut and swing the hub down rather than separating the ball joint.

By doing it that way, you have to mark the strut bolts to keep proper alignment. Typically getting the ball joint "stud" out of the spindle isn't too terribly hard, and otherwise the 3 ball joint bolts on each side aren't that tough to get out of the way.

[B 4 You]

Thanks for the replies. But do you guys think the vibrations are being caused by the bad CV joints? I guess there's really only one way to find out...

[92snowmachine]

replacing the axles will give you a good chance to see what else is or may be worn out. you need to do it anyway so you might as well bite the bullet and jump in. i love doing subaru axles at work, easy job that's really straightforward and takes like 10 minutes with a lift and power tools. i would also recommend taking apart the top of the knuckle instead of the ball joint. just make sure that you mark not only the direction of the camber bolt is facing but also paint a line around it with finger nail polish or your alignment will have to be fixed.

[icingdeath88]

Keep in mind, if you leave the knuckle hanging from the strut, then you don't have to hold it up, or worry about brake lines yanking, etc. I had a very hard time maneuvering the knuckles when I did my coilovers on jack stands, and I think he'll run into the same difficulties, especially if he's on his own.

[Subix]

What should someone expect to pay on a realistic level for a good shop (one that doesn't take advantage) to have this work done? Just curious...

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Subix

What should someone expect to pay on a realistic level for a good shop (one that doesn't take advantage) to have this work done? Just curious...

I brought an axle and a new axle nut and a shop charged me 50 bucks once, but the manager was a friend of my brothers so I got the hook up that time. Other than that I really don't know. Maybe 92snowmachine will have a bit better idea?

[92snowmachine]

most people charge an hour for subaru axles and may give you a break on doing both at once. if you figure your local labor rate (varies a lot by area) and multiply by 2.0 or 1.5 you will get a general idea. if you know someone at a shop they will probably put both in for 50 realizing that it's actually really easy. if they quote you more than 2 hours than they are quoting you from a labor guide instead of experience. if you call around to shops to figure out their labor rate make sure you ask what an hour of labor comes to with shop fees and taxes. there is no tax on labor but in some areas after the shop fees are added (for towels, cleaners, etc...) then the entire amount gets taxed.

it's really not that difficult to do on your own. it just seems overwhelming the first time. i did axles on my brothers subaru long before i knew much about fixing cars and it took us all afternoon but we got it done. if you get stuck at some point you can always jump on the forum and ask questions.

labor rate at my old shop in denver is $110/hr. 8 miles away at my new shop it's $80/hr. so call around if you are not going to do it yourself.

[dennyo]

What size punch are you using to get the roll pin out with?

[kwren]

Originally Posted by dennyo

What size punch are you using to get the roll pin out with?

Try the same size as the roll pin that comes with the new CV Shaft.

Keith

[92snowmachine]

i use a small torx scredriver. the end fits slightly into the pin which is better for installing the pin.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by 92snowmachine

i use a small torx scredriver. the end fits slightly into the pin which is better for installing the pin.

T30 works perfect. And has a handle that's easier to get a hammer on as opposed to a punch handle.