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  #16  
Old 06-02-2008, 07:42 PM
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...huh?

Simple answer....your ram air thingy currently has no real proformance gains, due to the temperature of the air that the filter is drawing in. The simplest thing would be to make some sort of a heat shield, OR, relocate the filter into the fender using some intake tubing. You can find universal style kits on ebay that have a variety of couplers, elbows, and pipe...Youd essentially just need a coupler to the maf, a 6 inch long tube into the fender, a 90 degree elbow down, and something like a foot long pipe leading down. beforehand you should remove the factory intake resonator, as itll be in the way, and cut a hole in the bottom of the inner fender liner to help scoop some cool air toward the filter.

now, you COULD put the filter JUST inside the fender to leave the intake tract as short as possible, but there is no positive pressure in the fender, hence why its better located lower, and with some holes in the plastic fender liner fr ventalation. Proformance benifits from this intake arent so much from getting colder air as they are from smoothing the airflow through the air box
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  #17  
Old 06-02-2008, 08:37 PM
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i seen this thing called an E-Ram charger. its like this small 12volt operated fan turbine that goes into the tubing of the intake right behind the filter. it supposedly helps build pressure and pull air in better than just tubing itself... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subar...m330240452884& let me know if this is a scam or if it really works...?
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  #18  
Old 06-02-2008, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfy View Post
i seen this thing called an E-Ram charger. its like this small 12volt operated fan turbine that goes into the tubing of the intake right behind the filter. it supposedly helps build pressure and pull air in better than just tubing itself... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subar...m330240452884& let me know if this is a scam or if it really works...?
SCAM!!
..........
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  #19  
Old 06-03-2008, 06:37 PM
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i expected that, but was hoping it wasnt... anything like that real? like a forced air intake via turbine or fan or something? i dont mean turbos or superchargers..
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  #20  
Old 06-03-2008, 10:05 PM
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to have a forced air intake you need something that can actually force air, not just blow it. do you think that itty bitty 12v computer fan could blow up a balloon? ugh, i'm too tired to go into detail about why these don't work right now. anybody care to pick up my slack?
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  #21  
Old 06-03-2008, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfy View Post
i expected that, but was hoping it wasnt... anything like that real? like a forced air intake via turbine or fan or something? i dont mean turbos or superchargers..

Forcing air around is all well and good. However, you seem to be missing the fact that you want to force MORE air into something that is already sucking in a LOT of air. Those ebay things would MAYBE give you like 3 hp UNDER 800 rpm, but after that they would literally just run out of wind.

Your money would be better spent on magic beans.
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  #22  
Old 06-04-2008, 07:16 AM
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Your money would be better spent on magic beans.
Where can I get some and how do I install 'em????

I NEED TEH BEANS!
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  #23  
Old 06-04-2008, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lechnoid View Post
Where can I get some and how do I install 'em????

I NEED TEH BEANS!

Magic beans are TeH F4STeRz!!!!
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  #24  
Old 06-06-2008, 05:40 AM
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Trade me your car for teh majik beanz!
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  #25  
Old 06-07-2008, 08:28 PM
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Several members use ramair,I mean a true ramair setup like for one example a conical intake setup inside your wheelwell with a coldair tube running down into your lower bumper area where the tubing gets ram with air from a three hole cut into your lower bumper,its been track tested and mother approved,also it does drop your incoming air temps as well,others have tested this also.I once was caught in a heavy downpour coming from Ga,I didn't stop to disconnect my ramair,I truly didn't have a issue.As long as your filter isn't completely enclosed and still provide a ramair effect at speed you should be ok.
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  #26  
Old 06-07-2008, 11:18 PM
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Well, to be honest, people seem to toss around the "ram air" term when unneeded. The original technology had more to do with intake manifold volume effecting the resonance wave effects caused by the air molecules hitting closed intake valves, and tuning this resonance in such a way that the refracting wave of air molecules met the vale just as it opened, aiding in reducing low pressure spots at the valves and promoting intake flow through the heads more than finding a source fro the inlet of ambient temperature air being fed to the engine via the shortest path possible to decrease intake temperatures aiding in performance via denser air charge......But w/e, same diffrence
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  #27  
Old 06-09-2008, 11:01 PM
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A quick note for anyone who's ever had MAF issues with K&N filters. MAF or Brake cleaner will completely fix the issue. this is most common immediately after cleaning and re-oiling. high volume of air moving through the filter will sometimes lift excess oil from the media and this oil will coat the heated element in your MAF. Simply clean this element with a non residue cleaner (MAF or Brake cleaner) and it will completely restore function and power.
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