SVX Network Forums Live Chat! SVX or Subaru Links Old Lockers Photo Post How-To Documents Message Archive SVX Shop Search |
IRC users: |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Oil pump gasket.
Now that I have to dig around the front of my car to fix my power steering hoses (hopefully that's all), I'm thinking of replacing my oil pump's gasket (and perhaps the pump too). Is it readily accessable, or is it buried away in the engine bay? Are there any "Oil Pump Gasket for Dummies" guides out there? Thanks.
Clarke |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
You mean pulling your timing belt cover, and idlers, etc.??
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Personally, I would save that job for when you replace the timing belt. That's kind of a hefty job just to do the gasket alone.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
It's a pretty cheap part (~$5), but the process of replacing it is very involved! -Chike
__________________
"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Good luck finding one around here. If it was me I'd hit one of the north carolina dealers near asheville/hendersonville area. Check nasioc.com southeast region for some locals up there who know good shops.
That repair isn't all that difficult really - as long as the crank sprocket comes off easy and you have tools to get the cam sprockets off the rest is a breeze.
__________________
Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
He worked on my car when he was at the Steve White subaru dealer about 5 years ago.
__________________
Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
There is no gasket for the oil pump. Factory used an RTV for the oil pump. If you mean the front seal, that is what Chike is showing you. Also, there is really no need to replace the oil pump as they are self-lubricating, so as long as there is oil in the car, it won't wear out in less than 200k in my opinion
Tom |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I'm not sure... I don't think it's a Subaru dealer. If I knew, I'd try to reach him and see if he'd like to do some sideline work on my car.
Quote:
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
It would be good to do the water pump while you are doing the timing belt. They don't last forever. The entire job really isn't that difficult, but you do need a few specialty tools. If you have a garage where you can do the work and a spare car, you can take your time with the repair.
__________________
Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Noob here...
I've got an SVX with a similar problem (front oil pump seal). My problem is this- I have nowhere to work on the car. How much, respectively, would it cost for someone else to do it? Sorry if that question is assenine. I just need to know because this car is about to go on a trip to Texas from Florida (about 1,200miles give or take) and I need it to make it! Any help would be appreciated. By the way, sorry to hijack the thread.
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
There is an o-ring behind the pump that seals it to the engine. With time they can leak. However the most common leak is the crankshaft seal as it not only seals the crankshaft, as in a normal engine, but also seals oil pump pressure.
It really is a good idea to replace the crank seal and the oil pump o-ring when replacing the t-belt. Many times cam seals are replaced also but I've found that most of the oil thought to be coming from them is actually just carried away from the crank sprocket by the belt. I've been finding that the crank seal begins seeping around 30k miles and when removed is rock-hard. Replacing the o-ring behind the pump is easy once the t-belt is removed. Once the pump is off it's an easy task to punch the crank seal out from the back. BE WARY - many people have been abused by dealers/shops that oversell, stating that an oil pump must be replaced because it is leaking/age/etc.
__________________
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|