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  #16  
Old 12-26-2004, 12:15 PM
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ive tired to find little bubles while idling and they don't show.

It only overheated on me once(kinda). I got on it a little while taking a turn and accelled out of it. The heat went ice cold and the temp began to rise. I let the engine slow the car(5mt) And the heat came back on and the temp went back down. This was after quite a while of driving so I know the thermostat was open. Anyway, I am still pushing a good deal of coolant out throught the overflow and I replaced the cap. There is still coolant comming from the top of the cap. Anyway, its blowing my mind as to what it is.
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  #17  
Old 12-26-2004, 01:30 PM
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The loss of heater heat would have been a result of an air pocket passing through the heater.

How soon does the water begins to spew? Before the engine warms up, or does it need to run several minutes first? If it is while the water is still relatively cold you probably have a compression leak. If only after the water is hot you may have a water pump not pumping (pulley or impeller slipping), or a severe blockage - mice or mouse house in the old radiator? Collapsed inner hose layer? Check the temp of the upper and lower hoses when it begins to spew to see if there is a large temp difference.
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  #18  
Old 12-26-2004, 03:01 PM
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it won't leak unless the engine is reved. I don't mean little pansy revs either, it needs to be reved hard and there needs to be load on the enigne in order for the cap to leak.
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  #19  
Old 12-26-2004, 03:35 PM
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Well, that's when you need to have the cap off and be looking for bubbles. The question remains: will it do this when cold or does it need to be warmed up?

Needing to rev it up that hard is almost a dead giveaway...
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  #20  
Old 12-27-2004, 04:12 PM
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dead give away to what? a compression leak?
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  #21  
Old 12-30-2004, 04:11 PM
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Well since you've changed the head gaskets and assumingly torqued everything properly perhaps the issue is with the head itself.

Either the head is warped from all the overheating or else it's cracked.
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  #22  
Old 12-30-2004, 08:14 PM
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i was afraid of that but i am quadruple checking everything over and over just to be absolutely positive
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  #23  
Old 12-31-2004, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm
Well since you've changed the head gaskets and assumingly torqued everything properly perhaps the issue is with the head itself.

Either the head is warped from all the overheating or else it's cracked.
if this is the case he should see an oil/water mixture in his radiator... but it doesn't eliminate the possibility of an early craking.. DISMANTLE THE ENGINE !!!
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  #24  
Old 12-31-2004, 02:01 AM
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A couple of things can cause a leak in a fresh head gasket.

- Not running a tap down the head bolt holes / a die over the head bolts.
- Reusing the old head bolts.
**These can cause faulty torque readings and an insufficient seal

- Not having the head resurfaced.
- Not having the block checked for squareness/cut.
**Uneven surfaces won't seal properly

- Foreign material on the mating surface
**Gots to be careful and keep everything clean

If the leak is around the cylinder, which it probably is, only combustion gas (air/fuel mixture) will be entering the water. Won't see any oil in the water. There will be fuel but it will be harder to detect.

Some mistakes are more expensive than others. Best to get it fixed before it ends up costing more.
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  #25  
Old 12-31-2004, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Myetball
- Not having the head resurfaced.
**Uneven surfaces won't seal properly

- Foreign material on the mating surface
**Gots to be careful and keep everything clean

If the leak is around the cylinder, which it probably is, only combustion gas (air/fuel mixture) will be entering the water. Won't see any oil in the water. There will be fuel but it will be harder to detect.
the first two are most probably the reason, but yes oil can be seen in water if there is a leak between the combustion chamber and water holes.

Tom, I spoke to my mechanic just now about your case, he told me that it is either the Head gaskets, or radiator, or the engine has uneven surface (totally flat as it should be) either to the side of the block, or the head (gasket surface)... either way if it is the case, you will have to shave it which will increase the compression ratio... FUTURE Turbo Mod???
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  #26  
Old 12-31-2004, 11:19 AM
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no i am not looking to turbo this engine in the future. yes i will be removing the engine again and totally redoing the headgaskets. This time the heads will be pressure checked and milled. I need to call my head shop back and ask if they will aslo check the block, if not i will use a straight edge to the best I can. Ill let you know how it turns out.
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  #27  
Old 12-31-2004, 01:43 PM
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Danny,
As I recall an increase in compression ratio, caused by shaving the heads would be exactly the opposite of what one would do in preparation for "FUTURE Turbo Mod?"???

Glenn

Sorry Tom!
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Last edited by RojoRocket; 12-31-2004 at 07:43 PM.
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  #28  
Old 12-31-2004, 01:51 PM
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Rojo you are right but lets not go over that here

Anyway, i bent the tabs on the cap to create a tighter seal. This seems to be working for now. Fingers toes arms and legs crossed that i don't need to pull the motor. But i am still expecting to have to do that. Just monitoring coolant levels and such as it is right now just to be absolutely sure there is a headgasket problem.
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