New owner, electrical problems. Can someone steer me in the right direction?

[lee]

Matt,

The wiring diagram for the power feed shows the fusible link and four fuses that are fed before the power begins to branch out further. My reading of the diagram shows nothing that isn't protected by a fuse or the link. The fuses not protected by the link are under the hood in the fuse/relay box and labeled SBF 3, 4, 5, and SBF (ABS).

If the guy is paying, then don't sweat it, but if you are going to attempt this yourself - you WILL need the actual diagrams in your hands, a volt-ohm meter, and $25 (I think) for a year's subscription to Alldata - which will get you the diagrams along with voltage/ohm readings for a lot of the connections.

One final caution. I have rewired one car in my life - a 67 Vette - wiring loom burnt as it sat in the garage. I'd never do it again.

Best of luck with whatever you decide.

[Ron Mummert]

Originally posted by Boone
<<Yes, a mouse would be the suspect.>>
Ron,
When you catch him, just make sure your little tiny handcuffs aren't made of aluminum.

I plan to use little tie-rats.

Ron.

[Trevor]

Matt, whatever you do donÕt panic, take your time and do some research and you will learn a lot.

But do not invest in this car until you are positive in regard to what you could lay yourself open to in the way of ongoing costs. There have been several worthwhile posts along these lines.

However it is not conclusive that vast damage has occurred. As Lee has correctly pointed out the electrical distribution system is well designed and everything is protected by means of a fuse. It is unlikely that there is loom damage other than most likely leads to the alternator or other power wiring protected only by the fusible link.

Unexplained strange happenings will most likely be the result of damage to the electronic management systems rather low current wiring problems.

Do not start pulling the dash apart etc. The fusible link went open therefore the original problem must have been confined to the high power circuitry only and most probably the alternator. Do not stuff about, locate this problem first.

( Aside for Ron ---- The fusible link is just a name given to the first and major fuse in the system which protects high current power items. It is usually designed and comprises material so as to take a set ratio of time/current to melt so that high inrush currents are tolerated but a fault of some duration which could cause damage will be interrupted. )

As Lee has pointed out you are not involved in rocket science but you must proceed in a logical manner, not just look and hope to find something, or worse take the modern ÒexpertsÓ approach of keep replacing everything suspect until the problem rights itself. Good business only if you are making a profit on parts.

Giving advice from the other side of the planet has its problems ! But you can see that you have willing helpers but report logically on your findings so that we may be of worthwhile help,

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Ron Mummert



I plan to use little tie-rats.

Ron.

Is that anything like Thai sticks?

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by Ron Mummert
He told me that a fusible link wire is made of aluminum & will burn faster than copper, although I don't know why they just don't provide a true fuse instead.
Ron.

It is the fuse, the wire is the fuse but it doesn't have the outer wrapping on it. It will blow at a much higher amp rating. They don't make fuses as high as the link rating, may be the reason.

[Ron Mummert]

Originally posted by svx_commuter


It is the fuse, the wire is the fuse but it doesn't have the outer wrapping on it. It will blow at a much higher amp rating. They don't make fuses as high as the link rating, may be the reason.

This wire, approximately 22-24 gauge, DID have an orange sheath, & looked like any other wire. "Fusible link" was printed on the sheath.
(cars should have re-setable circuit breakers, like houses)!

Ron.