Stalling out issues

[willisjefferyl]

ok, I bought my svx a few months back @145k with rear end damage. Everything has seemed to work awesome(motor and tranny wise) my power steering leaked and I replaced the o-ring which solved the problem completely. I replaced the pcv valve which I feel didnt do anything at all.(a pain in the a** by the way). 600 for tires, new rear bumper, new rear lights, rack and pinion is perfect, bla bla bla. the car was beginning to look nice again. then after driving around 3000 miles, the car began to sputter while driving at speeds ranging from simply pulling out to 70 mph and seems completely sporadic. In the past week, I have checked the alternator, battery, checked all vacuum hoses, replaced fuel filter, replaced fuel pressure regulator, and my fuel pressure came back up to around 42 psi from 26 psi. After replacing the regulator, I drove over 150 miles nonstop and the car did great( finally got me home) but I went out in the car after it had set for a few hours and it stalled mutiple times. I have a full tank of gas, engine sounds smooth, idles perfect, no knocks, I cant figure anything out except a few sensors, but these sensors could cost me up to a grand to get them all. Im curious about the fuel pump as well, will this pump act up and not go bad? Right now the car runs and idles but I dont know when it is going to cut out and Im afraid to drive to a garage. I am pretty good with working on cars any way so I try to avoid getting ripped off anyway. unitl I figure something out I am car less, not cool. Any suggestions? Help plz?

[Wikedjuggalo]

Maf? .........

[macadamianut]

I had completely random stalling issues. Remedied by a new MAF.

[willisjefferyl]

I have suspected the MAF sensor. While the car is idleing, if I remove the plug from the sensor, the car dies immediately. If I start it back without the sensor plugged in, the car runs horrible, rough idle, and basically dies. I plug it back in and the car idles smoothly again. I assumed the sensor was ok, but still took off the unit and cleaned it with carburater cleaner. and still the same results. I have a k & n air filter as well, about 3000 miles on it. I was thinking it might be a cam sensor?

[Wikedjuggalo]

Originally Posted by willisjefferyl

I have suspected the MAF sensor. While the car is idleing, if I remove the plug from the sensor, the car dies immediately. If I start it back without the sensor plugged in, the car runs horrible, rough idle, and basically dies. I plug it back in and the car idles smoothly again. I assumed the sensor was ok, but still took off the unit and cleaned it with carburater cleaner. and still the same results. I have a k & n air filter as well, about 3000 miles on it. I was thinking it might be a cam sensor?

Seek a used good maf or a new maf. I don't think its the cam sensor. Swap out MAF first then go from there because a bad maf will cause random stalling.

[TomsSVX]

have you checked for any codes yet?

Tom

[willisjefferyl]

havent checked for any codes yet. The subaru dealership was the only place around that could read it and I know its not cheap there so I was thinking of checking them my self with the blue wires behind the kick panel. How easy is it to read the codes (self-diagnostics)? I have the chilton manual with the code numbers and what not.

[willisjefferyl]

oh, by the way, I was just checking out the fuel pump by turning the key on and listening. I didnt hear anything the first couple of times, then I heard a sound like it was sucking air or like the tank was almost empty but its a full tank. the car started fine and idled for about 15 minutes no problem. I did not attempt to drive anywhere though. think its possible my fuel pump is going bad? wouldnt it just go out though since it electric? I am looking for a MAF, hopefully used in good shape, and fairly cheap, ha! (yeah right) If I take the top off the MAF to test the voltage, how do I reseal it? or can I?

[macadamianut]

Buy a new MAF. They can be had for about 300.00 new or less rebuilt. I had bought a used one form a junkyard that was in the junkyard for a reason.

Stick the blue wire into pin slot #2 on the black connector, turn the key to "ON" not start and count the blinky light. Long equals 10, short equals one. Add them together. So a 37 is three long, followed by seven short blinks.

[willisjefferyl]

just checked my codes, 22 & 28 were knock sensors, 32 & 38 were o2 sensors, and 23 was air flow meter. Is the air flow meter the same thing as the Mass air flow? Would the knock sensors the car stall as well?

[sowise]

Originally Posted by willisjefferyl

just checked my codes, 22 & 28 were knock sensors, 32 & 38 were o2 sensors, and 23 was air flow meter. Is the air flow meter the same thing as the Mass air flow? Would the knock sensors the car stall as well?

Hm, sad thing is if your MAF sensor is bad i believe it could cause all the other codes. Try cleaning it and reset your codes then recheck.

[SoCal LS-L]

I have a good working MAF sensor, which came off my '92. If you want it ill take $60 with shipping included. Going with used instead of dropping $350 for a new one is just fine since it's a solid state device... no moving parts to wear out. PM me if you want it and we can work out the details

[willisjefferyl]

Will a MAF sensor from a 96 legacy outback work for the SVX? It looks identical?

[sowise]

Might work for normal driving but I don't think it will work for the higher end. It might help you prove your fault conditions though.

[Cam]

If your knock sensors are bad then your ECU will lean out the Air/Fuel mixture. I believe it will only lean it out enough to decrease performance. I would pursue the MAF if I were you. Easiest fix, and with the offer you were given it sounds like the cheapest too. Good luck.