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  #16  
Old 07-01-2006, 03:04 PM
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Beav Beav is offline
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Uh.... before jumping the gun, swap that coil with another and see if the issue 'travels'. This way you can be sure it's the coil and not the injector or some other problem.
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2006, 07:07 PM
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Whenever I start my SVX, and am stopped in park or driving at low speeds, it runs very roughly. It feels fine when I drive at mid to high speeds, but in the low speeds or stopped, the whole car is shaking very roughly.
This does not seem like a coil problem to me. If it only does it when the engine is not under load, and runs OK when it is under load, I doubt it would be spark related. Sounds more like a mixture change when the throttles are closed. May be a air leak on the engine side of the throttle, vacuum hose, or a EGR leak.

Harvey.
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  #18  
Old 07-01-2006, 07:58 PM
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I performed a test with the engine on, and in park. The shaking goes until I reach about 1800 RPM's. While at idle and in the lower RPMS, the entire car is shaking. Also, if you watch the engine, it shakes back and forth pretty well too. But at 1800 RPMs or more, it is nice and smooth.
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  #19  
Old 07-01-2006, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dwd1985
I performed a test with the engine on, and in park. The shaking goes until I reach about 1800 RPM's. While at idle and in the lower RPMS, the entire car is shaking. Also, if you watch the engine, it shakes back and forth pretty well too. But at 1800 RPMs or more, it is nice and smooth.
Well it is affected by the high manifold vacuum. After 1800 rpm the amount of air leaking into the manifold, would be a smaller amount of the whole air, so the effects disappear. Something like the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, or a loose manifold.

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  #20  
Old 07-02-2006, 06:20 PM
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My official findings:
Tosay, I stripped the guts out of the engine. I pulled the air ductwork, the airbox, battery, alternator, drive belts, etc. I cleaned everything out, and replaced as many vacuum hoses as I could (you would be surprised at the number you can get to without pulling the intake manifold) I was mainly looking for cracked hoses or ones with holes. They were all old and brittle, but none seemed that bad. I replaced all that I could, which was about 10 of them. I re-assembled everything, started it up, and the problem was still there. Not that I was really expecting it to go away after only replacing some hoses. But I tried unplugging the injectors again, and now the middle drivers side one had no change, and the rear passenger side one had no change. This leads me to beleive that it is either bad coil packs on them, or bad injectors. Tommorrow, I will swap the coils around and see if the problem travels with the coils, as someone has already suggested. If the problem travels, I will know it is the coils. If the problem doesnt, I will assume it is the injectors. If I end up replacing the injectors and the problem remains, it must be somehting else, and I will relent and take it to a shop. Let someone else deal with it. Anyways, the only ill effect that came from todays under-the-hood adventure was that my charge indicator light is on now, even without the key in the ignition. Actually, that is the only time it is on. As soon as I put the key in, or start it up, it goes away. Im not terribly worried, the batter yand alternator are both only about 9 months old. I am just not sure why that light is on though.
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  #21  
Old 07-03-2006, 12:17 PM
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As Harvey suggested, check all the bolts on the intake. We have seen many come loose (less than finger tight) and allow unmetered air into the engine causing a rough engine.
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  #22  
Old 07-05-2006, 05:29 PM
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I already tightened up the entire manifold. That is definetely not it.
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  #23  
Old 07-06-2006, 12:42 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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I would have to say that I have figured out the solution. As I was undoing the bolts for the spark plug coils/wires, the wire on the coil that was misfiring completely fell off of the coil, and I was barely touching it. Now, the wire and the coil are 2 seperate parts, the wire is ocmpletely broken. If it was that loosely connected, or possibly even halfway disconnected, then I am sure that would cause the mis-fire. I ordered some new coils, and that should be the solution, but if for some reason it is not, I will post back here to move onto the next step.
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  #24  
Old 07-06-2006, 04:07 PM
Nomad Nomad is offline
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interresting

Hi man. I'm reading your post and I have a little shake at iddle....I'll start cheking my coils.....
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  #25  
Old 07-07-2006, 01:51 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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Anyone who has done this before, how on earth do you disconnect the coil wire from its harness at the back of the engine? My new coils should be here tommorrow, and im trying to get it ready to just plug in the new ones, and go, but I cant get the old wire discconected, and I am afraid if I get too rough, I might end up with a number of broken coil wires. Any person who has done this already, let me know how those connectors become disconnected.
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  #26  
Old 07-10-2006, 06:13 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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I replaced the 2 bad coil packs, and the problem is gone! Thanks for the help guys.
On one side note, my battery light is in now, even without the keys in the ignition. Any ideas?
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