Left Side Valve Cover Removal

SVX ROO · #1 03-02-2004, 02:16 PM

In my quest to eliminate most / all of my '92's oil leaks (see recent post about crank seal success), I changed the three gaskets on the right side valve cover bank. Job went fairly easy and cover came out of car by tilting up in front and pulling it out the top. I only removed the air filter box and plug coils to do this.

Now I look at the left hand bank. I usually pull the battery to change plugs, but there is no way I can see to get the valve cover out the top due to the AC tubing being in the way and some other bits and pieces. Can it come out the top? What else would I need to remove to make room? Or must it go out the bottom? If so, someone please make any suggestions about things to remove before getting to the valve cover.

Thanks.
Ken

immortal_suby · #2 03-02-2004, 05:13 PM

It is like a puzzle. It will come out. Taking the battery out will give you some room to work with. You have to just move it in different directions until you can squeek it out.
It is even worse trying to put it back in and not damage the new gasket.

Take your time. It doesn't need to be forced, just played with a little.

lee · #3 03-02-2004, 05:30 PM

I'm getting closer and closer to doing my cam/crank seals (all these posts are slowly bilding up my confidence level). I don't "think" I have valve cover leaks, so I would prefer to wait...but is there any special reason I should do it all at once - in terms of ease while the front cover is off?

pylon500 · #4 03-05-2004, 02:51 AM

G'Day from OZ,
I too am chasing oil leaks with the intention of changing the valve cover gaskets.
I've got a '92 with 340,000 klms (211.000 m'ls) on it!

(is that some sort of record?)
Only got the actual gaskets and didn't bother with the bolt seals (thought they were only 'O' rings)

It's a bit of a hassle getting bits so I might have a look at some of the thick 'O' rings before ordering and waiting for parts again, could be a bit cheaper too.

Have so far managed to get the right hand cover off, it would appear to have been off before without changing the gaskets, and was sealed up using that orange hi temp silicone stuff.

Left side looks a bit more of a challange.

Arthur.

SVX ROO · #5 03-05-2004, 06:58 AM

Arthur
I did not replace the "0-rings" when I redid the valve cover. I have not seen new ones but they are more like soft washers when old.

I cleaned bolt and washer thoroughly. I applied Hylomar to bolt shaft and pushed the washer onto it so there is a thin film between bolt and washer and under the head of the bolt. ONLY use Hylomar or other non-curing sealant. RTV cures and can send rubber "gubbers" around your oil system. Hylomar does not cure to a solid. There are some liquid gasket makers, from Locktite that will do the same.

I have only gone about 10 days but I have no leakage from bolts this way, nor the RH valve cover.
Ken

immortal_suby · #6 03-07-2004, 06:14 PM

I understated what a pain in the arse it was. I hadn't done it on mine in 3 years. I did the wife's svx valve cover gaskets this weekend.

Ugh
Passenger side is a cakewalk - no real tricks, take out the airbox and the rest is easy.

Drivers side is a puzzle.
Took me about 4 hours.
I finally resorted to jacking up the car at various points to try to torque the frame to gain 1/4 inch more room to get the cover out. If I hadn't taken the drivers side valve cover off mine 3 years ago I would have said it was impossible to do today without pulling the engine.

I knew it could be done, and I knew it did not need to be forced - that with the right movement it would suddenly pop right out.

Final trick that did it - jacked up the engine on the drivers side - didn't loosen any engine mounts, just used a 2x4 placed right next to the oil pan and the floor jack to lift it a little. This gave me just enough room to squeak the cover out. I didn't do that the last time on my car. I don't know why I had to this time.

I took out the battery and coolant reservoir to gain easier access.

If you order from subaruparts.com, the default number for the bolt seals is 16 on their website. There are actually 20 bolts, 10 per side. Keep that in mind if you order them. I wouldn't recommend using the old ones again- they will be hardened and brittle, they will leak. The hylomar could work too - but I haven't tried that yet.

An offset ratcheting wrench makes this job a ton easier. It can be done without it, but you will be doing the 1/8th turn at a time trick for an hour with a regular wrench.

Yes, it does come out the top.

immortal_suby · #7 03-07-2004, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lee
.but is there any special reason I should do it all at once - in terms of ease while the front cover is off?

I don't think it will be any easier with the front covers removed. The valve covers come out fairly straight upwards.

pylon500 · #8 03-08-2004, 06:30 AM

G'Day Again,
Well, I got it out

and I got it back in

I was so amazed that I did it again and took photographs!!!

Unfortunately it's after midnight now so I'll have to keep you all in suspence until I can format, and upload the picks'.
The trick (after removal of the bolts) is to go outwards, back, up at the rear, forward, up at the front, line up the bottom edge with the gap between the cam gears, go forward till under the A/C 'blob' thingy, lean outwards (a bit) and slowly forward and out. Ta-Dahh!

There's a screw holding a plastic mud shield just above the fender rail that can come out for that extra 1/4 " clearance.
I only removed battery, (not reservoir) but for a bit more clearance, I removed the vertical bolt holding the A/C compressor, and wedged it across against the alternator.

As for the bolt seals, I used some large size 5/16th hardware washers (for packing) and bought a pack (of 100) of 'elastorators'

(sheep tail docking rings!!) for a bout $5.00 as opposed to $2.25 ea from SUBIPARTS.COM or $5.45 EACH! from Subi Australia

Have only run the car once so far so have no idea how well this will all work.
I'll keep you all informed.

Arthur.

svx_commuter · #9 03-08-2004, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pylon500
G'Day from OZ,
I too am chasing oil leaks with the intention of changing the valve cover gaskets.
I've got a '92 with 340,000 klms (211.000 m'ls) on it! (is that some sort of record?)
...................................

Well that is pretty close but I think SVxPilot has you more miles.

If I remember correctly it had 250,000 miles about 6 months ago.

immortal_suby · #10 03-08-2004, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pylon500

There's a screw holding a plastic mud shield just above the fender rail that can come out for that extra 1/4 " clearance.

oops - forgot to mention, I removed that too.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out without too much trouble.

pylon500 · #11 03-10-2004, 03:46 AM

OK, this will get messy, I've seen others post multi pictures on a single post, but I can't figure it out so I'll just go multi-post.

'Remove this screw'

pylon500 · #12 03-10-2004, 03:50 AM

Once the bolts are out (hey, that took me three hours so I wasn't in the mood for taking pictures!)

Move the cover as far to the side as it will go.

pylon500 · #13 03-10-2004, 04:03 AM

Now lift upwards at the rear, while sliding backwards a little.
Look at the inside of the fender up front, you'll notice an indentation that sort of matches the shape of the front of the rocker cover.

pylon500 · #14 03-10-2004, 04:13 AM

Now you should be able to bring the 'bulged' section of the rocker cover up through the previously mentioned shape in the fender until you hiit the A/C lines.
You should now be able to lean the cover outwards past this plumbing.

pylon500 · #15 03-10-2004, 04:31 AM

OK, last bit; Line up the bottom of the cover edge with the gap between the cam gears and slide carefully forward.
You'll find the battery lead gets in the way, so you'll just have to hold it up for the cover to go under (It won't work the other way).
Just reverse the process to put it back in!