Aluminum Radiators with 5 pass trans cooler!

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by tomssvx

OK we are not gonna do this again. Just settle down PWR is gonna make the new caps just wait for them. If you can't wait, return the radiator for your refund and shut the **** up!!! I am sorry but its getting old fast.

Tom

It just blew off the silicone hose last night.. How in the world is that "old"? We aren't talking about what happened last month. We are talking about what is happening right now.

Nothing is resolved. They need to fix it the ***** up, then... we can shut the **** up. It ain't old.... till it's fixed. The problems are still happening.

[blacknite]

If Anyone Is Returning A Radiator I Will Buy It. My Car Is Not Running Because Of Is Broken One.... Hopefully I Will Have Money By End Of The Month. And Don't Want To Go Oem... Even Know I'm Tired Of Spending So Mutch Money On The Car. Everytime Something Brake's I End Up Upgrading. But I Need The Car....

[TomsSVX]

Sorry I freaked out phil but it is still the same old problem. The fact that you did not cut the ears off of the cap or buy an earless cap or shave down the mounts or dent the hood, is the reason why your hose blew off. Your relectance to take the situation into your own hands has left you with problems that only you can deal with. Just get a new cap or fix yours just like everyone did. It will work fine for the time being and when you get the new cap, switch them. Seriously dude you need to stop complaining, if you hate this radiator that much, return it and use the OEM one. It is that simple.

Tom

[WGJ]

I've heard enuff Phil...the cage match is back on.
Seeriously, Tom posted a v. clever solution to the problem of cap height and everyone understands the stock cap works just fine. No leaks. Virtually everyone else has managed to "get it" but you, in spite of the fact that several people have already installed their rad following Tom's advice (with and without the new silicon hoses, I think) and have reported they are v. happy (no problems). Your insight as to the possible cause of the blown hoses is appreciated, however, had you heeded Tom's instructions your insight would be unnecessary. The fact of the matter is that you are WAY behind the power curve. You'd know the problem(s) have all been resolved, if you were paying attention. The recent (for you) occurance of losing a hose was avoidable, had you been paying attention. Go back and read the thread or PM Tom for advice. Meanwhile, unless you're asking for advice, I have to agree with Tom, shut the **** up and STOP COMPLAINING!
WGJ

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by tomssvx

Sorry I freaked out phil but it is still the same old problem. The fact that you did not cut the ears off of the cap or buy an earless cap or shave down the mounts or dent the hood, is the reason why your hose blew off. Your relectance to take the situation into your own hands has left you with problems that only you can deal with. Just get a new cap or fix yours just like everyone did. It will work fine for the time being and when you get the new cap, switch them. Seriously dude you need to stop complaining, if you hate this radiator that much, return it and use the OEM one. It is that simple.

Tom

I dremeled it off today after work.

I only complain in this thread. Never complained anywhere else on this entire site about anything. I'm not some grumpy old man looking for something to complain about. I go straight from here and go cut up in another thread.

But this is the Aluminum Radiator thread. That's why it is here. Some of us aren't happy, and are stuck with the radiator in our cars, our old radiators gone, and nowhere to go with it. I actually "lost" an SVX over this. Not their fault, but the fact is still there. It's gone with irrepairable electrical damage. And that car is "why" I cancelled my radiator order with Subaru and waited the 2 months for this radiator. Big mistake, cost me a car, but that's my fault. I learned a lesson.

The great thing is, once this truly is over, and they hold good to their guarantee, this thread will die, and gradually float into the archives.

Think about it.... If it had been right at the beginning, as it should have been, this thread would already be gone. But we are still waiting.

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by WGJ

I've heard enuff Phil...the cage match is back on.
Seeriously, Tom posted a v. clever solution to the problem of cap height and everyone understands the stock cap works just fine. No leaks. Virtually everyone else has managed to "get it" but you, in spite of the fact that several people have already installed their rad following Tom's advice (with and without the new silicon hoses, I think) and have reported they are v. happy (no problems). Your insight as to the possible cause of the blown hoses is appreciated, however, had you heeded Tom's instructions your insight would be unnecessary. The fact of the matter is that you are WAY behind the power curve. You'd know the problem(s) have all been resolved, if you were paying attention. The recent (for you) occurance of losing a hose was avoidable, had you been paying attention. Go back and read the thread or PM Tom for advice. Meanwhile, unless you're asking for advice, I have to agree with Tom, shut the **** up and STOP COMPLAINING!
WGJ

Sorry WGJ but you never seem to read the thread. You just tell others to. Please go back and find the day the first hose blew.

[TomsSVX]

I responded to the hose blowing off. If the cap was not cut it would block the overflow and cause the pressure to blow the hose(where it would blow the OEM rad). Luckily, this problem is easily fixed by cutting the ears off the cap. If this was done already, the owner might want to bring their car to a mech to check for a compression leak. Other than than, an aluminum radiator will not blow hoses unless the install is messed up or the engine is shot. We have "quality products" they may need some minor tweaking but these rads are the best money can buy for our cars.

There is no battle to be won, we all know what problems have been had. The new problem of blowing hoses is due to the cap blocking the overflow. This is cause by the ears hitting the hood which brings us all the way back to the first problem. So take care of that and you are good to go. No more talking about the issues unless it is something else that has happened. Please no more whinning about PWR craftsmanship because they did a bang up job for the most part.

Tom

[immortal_suby]

Originally Posted by tomssvx

I responded to the hose blowing off. If the cap was not cut it would block the overflow and cause the pressure to blow the hose(where it would blow the OEM rad). Luckily, this problem is easily fixed by cutting the ears off the cap. Tom

Cool - thats the info I was looking for - I must have missed it earlier in the thread. I thought I had read that it was improper pressure of the PWR cap blowing hoses. I must have read it wrong. I had already dremeled my stock cap so all is good.

[GTOSVX]

I also suffered a blown hose with while using the supplied cap . When I put my PWR radiator in, the silicone hoses (silver by the way looks very good with the Aluminum radiator) had not yet arrived. In the interim period my top stock hose, only 6 months old, split. I at first thought I had weakened the hose by a cut or some effect from bending it back during installation of the radiator. I cut the ears off my PWR supplied cap, but did not like the result , so went back to the original stock cap. This cap does not leak for me, and I have been runnning the stock cap with the PWR radiator and silver silicon hoses; every day driving and some testing to ensure temp was triggering fans.
I am anxious for the PWR replacement cap, but I believe this interim solution is acceptable. Cooling seems excellent. I also used a D shaped weather strip with adhesive back to seal between the transmission cooler and the radiator. This provides a very clean look to the top gap, is easier to clean, and should be more stable with time than the open cell foam original. Have not tried to close the side gaps yet.

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by broyles

I also suffered a blown hose with while using the supplied cap . When I put my PWR radiator in, the silicone hoses (silver by the way looks very good with the Aluminum radiator) had not yet arrived. In the interim period my top stock hose, only 6 months old, split. I at first thought I had weakened the hose by a cut or some effect from bending it back during installation of the radiator. I cut the ears off my PWR supplied cap, but did not like the result , so went back to the original stock cap. This cap does not leak for me, and I have been runnning the stock cap with the PWR radiator and silver silicon hoses; every day driving and some testing to ensure temp was triggering fans.
I am anxious for the PWR replacement cap, but I believe this interim solution is acceptable. Cooling seems excellent. I also used a D shaped weather strip with adhesive back to seal between the transmission cooler and the radiator. This provides a very clean look to the top gap, is easier to clean, and should be more stable with time than the open cell foam original. Have not tried to close the side gaps yet.

I love those silicone hoses. Worth..every..single..penny!! Just feeling them, you can tell they would outlive a nuclear detonation. Perfect fit and they look great! (They clean up well also.. A little windex.)

Did you use a particular type of D shaped weather strip that we can go pick up and try, or did you have it lying around?

[GTOSVX]

I just picked up some at Shucks Auto supply; I think it was made for door/trunk sealing, but it fits the top gap just right. i used it on the bottom as well, but it does not mate up to the tranny cooler on the bottom, still has a gap. Have not had time to shop around for deeper alternative. i think what I bought was 5/8 deep.

[ensteele]

If you can, take a pic of the installation with the weater strip installed. If you find that another size fits the bottom better, let us know. Thanks

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by broyles

I just picked up some at Shucks Auto supply; I think it was made for door/trunk sealing, but it fits the top gap just right. i used it on the bottom as well, but it does not mate up to the tranny cooler on the bottom, still has a gap. Have not had time to shop around for deeper alternative. i think what I bought was 5/8 deep.

Excellent! I'm going to make a run to Pepboys, and see if they have it. That's really a great idea. I was looking at your idea more for the looks than function. I'm not used to there being a gap there. Imagining it, the D gasket looks pretty good!

[Bobb]

Hi everyone, Does PWR have a web site? If they do, what is it. Thanks and take care, BOBB

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by Bobb

Hi everyone, Does PWR have a web site? If they do, what is it. Thanks and take care, BOBB

http://www.pwr-performance.com/