Resistor Fix!

[AUSVX]

Hello everyone, I have a story for you all...

This morning I had no idea where to start working on with my car, I ended up running straight over the diagnostics and came up with 3 error codes and 3 different aches in my body.

The engine diagnostic spat out code 22 - knock sensor or circuit (right side) and code 37 - oxygen sensor (No.2, left side, On SVX)

The transmission diagnostic gave me code 11 - Duty Solenoid A

NOW, I was also getting the POWER light flashing 16 times on startup and yesterday I had ordered a resistor online because the transmission resistor died.

I ordered a 100w 15ohm resistor (see pictures at the end)

Me and my mate put on the new resistor and I was laughing when the POWER light didn't flash 16 times, and I laughed again when my car didn't SLAM from 1st gear into 2nd gear when I went for a drive.

Once I returned from the drive, I laughed 3 more times when I did both the engine and tranny diagnostic tests and my 3 error codes had vanished.. NO RESULTS!!! only 1/4 second blinking from both tests.

Originally, the codes were engine - 22 and 37, and tranny - 11

Is this possible that just fixing the resistor fixed up a lot of problems? I can't see how Knock Sensors and Engine Sensors are connected up with a Transmission Resistor.....

The only reason that I can think of, for not having error codes ANYMORE is that since I had reset everything... the engine diagnostic and tranny diagnostic might not have picked up the problems again INSTANTLY.... Does it maybe take a few days of driving for the diagnostic to pick up or realise or scan for problems again.. or is it instant? (I'm sure the car has its issues.

Check out the pictures for the resistor fix and don't mind my engine bay full of aluminium shards (and please don't forget about my 2 questions if you know the answers)

[SomethingElse]

I bought a couple resisters like that but have been afraid to use them because they are not the brick type. let us know how long it lasts

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by SomethingElse

I bought a couple resisters like that but have been afraid to use them because they are not the brick type. let us know how long it lasts

As the resistor is rated at 100 Watts it should last forever and will not get hot like the original. It is of superior construction and quality to the original. The only week point is the connections which are not mechanically robust. The answer is to support the wires prior to where they connect to the resistor.

[TN_fwdsvx]

Originally Posted by TuRbZ

I ordered a 100w 15ohm resistor

Where did you order the resistor? Edit: Saw the answer in another thread. (UK supplier)

What was your cost? I have been thinking of replacing my transmission resistor with one of these power resistors but have not been able to locate anyone with the right value in stock. They are a much better resistor than stock. I'll have to do more research and find a US supplier.

Thanks,

[genzzel]

I bought 3 of these with leads attached off e-bay over a year ago--still have the first one in SVX. Works great and only paid 11.00 dollars to my door.

[AUSVX]

Yeah the car's running awesome BUT can someone please answer my questions from the start of my thread, I'm very worried

[SomethingElse]

Originally Posted by TuRbZ

Yeah the car's running awesome BUT can someone please answer my questions from the start of my thread, I'm very worried

depending on milage you may still need an 02 sensor and knock sensor. They both only last about 100k miles on our cars. (though my expeirience) when you pull the battery I think it clears the codes.

Originally Posted by Trevor

As the resistor is rated at 100 Watts it should last forever and will not get hot like the original. It is of superior construction and quality to the original. The only week point is the connections which are not mechanically robust. The answer is to support the wires prior to where they connect to the resistor.

thanks trevor

[AUSVX]

yeah, thanks, that's all cool but is that resistor that I fixed, somehow connected to Solenoid A?

And how quick is the ECU and TCU to pick up on problems that the car has?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by TuRbZ

yeah, thanks, that's all cool but is that resistor that I fixed, somehow connected to Solenoid A?

And how quick is the ECU and TCU to pick up on problems that the car has?

The resistor has a connection with solenoid A which controls transmission line pressure. The resistor is in a secondary parallel circuit which in affect softens the closing of the solenoid. A faulty resistor can trigger code 11.

The diagnostic system should register applicable faults practically instantaneously.

[SomethingElse]

Originally Posted by TuRbZ

yeah, thanks, that's all cool but is that resistor that I fixed, somehow connected to Solenoid A?

And how quick is the ECU and TCU to pick up on problems that the car has?

Sorry, I ass.u.med you did some research, and knew the resistor controls the "A" solenoid.

Also, it depends if the o2/knock sensor are hard or intermittent faults on how quickly your light will come back on.

[AUSVX]

oh ok sweet thanks a lot guys!!

and by the way I took the car out for a thrashing yesterday and I really got a shock at well the car sticks to the road, a really big shock

[dragoontwo]

On the subject of fixing resistors, I measured mine to be 12 ohms. I found this on Mouser's website. It looks like a perfect candidate to replace the stock resistor. Anyone see any problems with using a thick film power resistor over a wire wound one?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by dragoontwo

On the subject of fixing resistors, I measured mine to be 12 ohms. I found this on Mouser's website. It looks like a perfect candidate to replace the stock resistor. Anyone see any problems with using a thick film power resistor over a wire wound one?

The manual specified 9 - 15 ohms and the resistor on my car measures 12 ohms, same as yours, Therefore 12 ohms the mean, must be the exact requirement.

I agree that you appear to have turned up an ideal replacement. Mounted on a piece of extruded alloy heat sink, or even a sheet metal bracket as a heat sink and as a means of fastening it should be excellent. More particularly as there are terminals holes providing good mechanical strength for connections.

In view of the excess rating, the heat sink may not be necessary, but can be easily made part of the mounting. In fact it would be hard to do otherwise. I would expect that it will come with a mica insulating spacer for mounting on a heat conductive surface.

[dragoontwo]

Well, I don't have a manual yet.... I guess I just assumed that the value was supposed to be 15. I'll probably cut out a ~.060 piece of aluminum in the foot print or a lil bigger for heat dissipation, but I don't think it will be needed. I'll report back with pics and whatnot when I get it and finish.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by dragoontwo

Well, I don't have a manual yet.... I guess I just assumed that the value was supposed to be 15. I'll probably cut out a ~.060 piece of aluminum in the foot print or a lil bigger for heat dissipation, but I don't think it will be needed. I'll report back with pics and whatnot when I get it and finish.

Good one. As I said you have got to mount it somehow. Make it a little larger as there is plenty of space on offer. If you know someone who uses common alloy extruded angles, channels, etc., you will be able to score a nice off cut, so as to make it pretty and efficient.

I hope it comes with some sort of mounting kit including insulated bushings or whatever, as is usual with those sort of components, as this will save you a lot of messing about. These may be catalogued as an extra.

You could have an excellent "how too" for inclusion in the records.