Possible front suspension mod

[SilverSpear]

After stiffening my front and rear struts, I am experiencing a lot of "link-assembly front stabilizer" failure. I have changed them twice already and now they are done . So I was talking to my mechanic and we agreed to search the market for more solid replacements from another manufacturer. As we were talking he suggested to also upgrade my front and rear bushings with machined TEFLON ones (we will machine them locally according to specs)... he said they are used by rally drivers everywhere...

So what do you think guys about the bushings? and is there any suggestion about the small front stabilizers?? (I am suspecting the Ford F-150 can fit...?)

[dynomatt]

What's breaking on the sway bars Danny? The links physically snapping, or the ball joint at each end (attaches to teh strut) or the bolt on section on the front left hand side?

M

[SilverSpear]

No breaking on the sway bars Matt, rather the small stabilizers (the ones going from the Strut to the sway bar) are getting damaged. We are suspecting that my Stiff struts I have, are causing more strain on these stabilizers:


So I am looking for aftermarket ones... from another manufacturer or so...
And in the conversation with my mechanic, he also mentioned something about Teflon bushings for the sway bars...

[ShiuludeSVX]

Originally Posted by SilverSpear

No breaking on the sway bars Matt, rather the small stabilizers (the ones going from the Strut to the sway bar) are getting damaged. We are suspecting that my Stiff struts I have, are causing more strain on these stabilizers:


So I am looking for aftermarket ones... from another manufacturer or so...
And in the conversation with my mechanic, he also mentioned something about Teflon bushings for the sway bars...

OOOO I need to replace those Links.
Lemme know what you find out, or make sure you complete this thread.

Thanks

[BAC5.2]

MOOG makes generic upgraded endlinks with polyurethane bushings, and they should have some application for that will work with the SVX setup.

My neighbor had a 99 Taurus SHO, and the stock rear endlinks were plastic. MOOG had the correct length endlink, and it was a simple swap swap.

From that diagram, it just looks like a standard straight endlink. I'd look into a MOOG unit. I think my neighbor paid like $23.00 for both rear endlinks. Head to a Pepboys or something local and ask to see the catalog. You'll be able to see if they have something that will work for you.

TEFLON bushings would be odd. I'd simply go with Polyurethane. I don't know any advantages to teflon, as you'd still need a metal sleeve, and you'd still need to grease it. Polyurethane is time proven to be an acceptable way of reducing bushing play without killing NVH.

Rally cars use machined aluminum bushings for a majority of the static bushings on the car. All mounts, for example, are machined aluminum (trans mounts, rear crossmember mounts, everything. Pivot bushings appear to be polyurethane in the rally cars I've seen.

[SVXRide]

Danny,
Can you provide some more details on how the end links are being damaged (pics!)?
I'm running the largest front bar in existence for the SVX along with Mychailo's springs and Koni inserts and my only issue has been tearing the end link attachment points off of the strut bodies (nothing a little MIG welding couldn't fix ). Have you been taking your car offroad?
-Bill

[nordique14]

The SVX sway links look very similar to the ones on a BMW M3. Some M3 owners make their own links as they are more durable than the stock links. They are also adjustable so the sway bar is not pre-loaded on lowered cars. If you know the length of the link then you can modify this DIY with the proper size and make them yourself.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html%5F..._bar_links.htm

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Danny,
Can you provide some more details on how the end links are being damaged (pics!)?
I'm running the largest front bar in existence for the SVX along with Mychailo's springs and Koni inserts and my only issue has been tearing the end link attachment points off of the strut bodies (nothing a little MIG welding couldn't fix ). Have you been taking your car offroad?
-Bill

No Bill, the damage is inside the ball joints of the end links. The wheel alignment shop is testing them each time, then showing me "an unusual play" showing internal damage inside them. After debate with them and with my mechanic, it seems that stiffening the front and rear suspension is causing more strain on the other parts of the suspension, especially those end links...

One way to deal with it is to stiffen the bushings and install more solid links...
If anyone can help out, the SVX links from bolt to bolt are 9" or 22.5cm long.

Originally Posted by BAC5.2

MOOG makes generic upgraded endlinks with polyurethane bushings, and they should have some application for that will work with the SVX setup.

My neighbor had a 99 Taurus SHO, and the stock rear endlinks were plastic. MOOG had the correct length endlink, and it was a simple swap swap.

From that diagram, it just looks like a standard straight endlink. I'd look into a MOOG unit. I think my neighbor paid like $23.00 for both rear endlinks. Head to a Pepboys or something local and ask to see the catalog. You'll be able to see if they have something that will work for you.

TEFLON bushings would be odd. I'd simply go with Polyurethane. I don't know any advantages to teflon, as you'd still need a metal sleeve, and you'd still need to grease it. Polyurethane is time proven to be an acceptable way of reducing bushing play without killing NVH.

Rally cars use machined aluminum bushings for a majority of the static bushings on the car. All mounts, for example, are machined aluminum (trans mounts, rear crossmember mounts, everything. Pivot bushings appear to be polyurethane in the rally cars I've seen.

Teflon is stiffer then polyurethane but less stiff than aluminum...

Originally Posted by nordique14

The SVX sway links look very similar to the ones on a BMW M3. Some M3 owners make their own links as they are more durable than the stock links. They are also adjustable so the sway bar is not pre-loaded on lowered cars. If you know the length of the link then you can modify this DIY with the proper size and make them yourself.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html%5F..._bar_links.htm

Thanks for the link my friend, but I dunno about those because the SVX weight in the front is enormous, can those handle the pressure??? Moreover they are not flexible as the ones with ball joints... and the SVX needs flexible ones, I think.

[SVXRide]

Danny,
best solution is to fabricate up some end links with heim ends...check out my locker for the ones I made for my custom rear bar. While you're at it, I would suggest getting a full weld bead on the attachment bracket on the strut housings
-Bill

[SilverSpear]

Are those sway bars completely custom (they are thicker than stock) or you got them fitted from another car? And the end links seem very solid, excellent job

[SilverSpear]

Teflon Bushings in process . I went to the machining shop today, took my old bushings. We sat for 30 mins exploring options, Polyurethane, Teflon, Aluminum.... according to his experience, he said that our original rubber are softer than polyurethane which is softer than Teflon which is softer than Alum....

As for the end links, I am still exploring my options with German parts (BMW X5, 328i, etc...), they will have to be cut in half or twisted to fit... My aim is stiffer and bigger ball joints for now...

As soon as they are all done, I will post pics

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by SilverSpear

Are those sway bars completely custom (they are thicker than stock) or you got them fitted from another car? And the end links seem very solid, excellent job

Danny,
My machinist and I built them using heim ends and bar stock.
-Bill

[SilverSpear]

Update on the end links: I found a machinist who works on end links for Mercedes 6 wheelers. According to his words, we can keep the stock look of ours but what he does is that he EMPTIES both sides where the ball joints are and "machine" adjustable ball joints where we can tighten the rotation of those ball joints according to will. If any damage would occur in time for those ball joints internals, we can just tighten them more to reach a desired tight rotation.... it seems to be the most ideal setup but doesn't come at the most ideal price! Does $50 each mean anything to you??????????

[SilverSpear]

Called the guy, he just fabricated one bushing similar to the one I have. I went and saw it, it is great! I asked him to carry on with the second one. I should have them both by Tuesday afternoon

As for the end link, I found out that an Opel model has the same unit lengh as our cars have. The thing is that the bolt thickness is 10mm compared to our 8mm size. The ball joints on those links are stiffer than ours, but I am still looking to find the perfect replacement and do the mod...

[RSVX]

Originally Posted by SilverSpear

Called the guy, he just fabricated one bushing similar to the one I have. I went and saw it, it is great! I asked him to carry on with the second one. I should have them both by Tuesday afternoon

As for the end link, I found out that an Opel model has the same unit lengh as our cars have. The thing is that the bolt thickness is 10mm compared to our 8mm size. The ball joints on those links are stiffer than ours, but I am still looking to find the perfect replacement and do the mod...

Cant you get a 2mm bushing?