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#1
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Racing Alignment
Wanna see if anybody has some good ideas for a true race alignment.
I know we'll go with the most camber we can squeeze out of her up front but the rear and toes are what I'm looking for. Would like to get something down by the Subie challenge since we have new tires on and don't wanna kill them in 30miles.
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#2
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I think that its going to depend on how the car handles now and what you want changed. Negative camber improves grip in corners but decreases braking traction. Toe-out at the front improves turn-in, but makes the car more twitchy at high speed. Rear toe-out promotes oversteer and makes the car more twitchy at high speed. You can also mess with the caster if you feel like slotting the strut mount holes in the front strut towers. Adding more caster will improve high speed stability and makes a more heavy steering feel at lower speeds.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#3
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Zero toe
2 degrees of negative camber front and back (I'm running 1.5 front and back this season and the car feels like it can handle more - i.e. I'm not noticing any problems with braking) I like Mychailo's comment about slotting the mounting holes to give some caster adjustment - might just look into that for next season -Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#4
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Well I went with a little toe in in front, like .02" and 1.60 deg. of camber. In the rear I set the toe like .03" out and the camber is right about 1.30 deg. I'm very happy with the way it handled the track but I'm sure there is always room for improvment.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs. 91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch. 78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered) 90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car) To many cars to spend time on teh web! |
#5
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I'm thinking a little toe out in the rear to help with the plowing and possible a little toe in up front. Why do you say 0 toe Bill experience? We're still plowing a bit and our rear doens't want to come around when I want it to in turns (even with new tread up front and dying out back). I think if we can get the rear to come around a little more it'll be much better for the car and for our times. Currently I like my cold pressures around 38-40 up front and 40-45 rear (the 45 would be a very tight course). I guess we really just need to get some numbers down first as currently I haven't a clue how badly I've butchered it with my $300 suspension modifications.
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#6
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I was just on the Solo performance website and They had some interesting bits....Namely a Magnetic camber also a bolt on looking one. and caster meter and toe measuring plates (couple peices of angle iron or so would work for those) Thoughts?
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86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver |
#7
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Ben,
Trust me, put a larger rear bar on that bad boy and the back will come around like a banshe (speaking from experience ). I've got zero toe on my car because I do drive it on the street and any noticeable toe will chew the tires up faster than anything else (and I've addressed things with the "optional" front and rear sway bars I have on my car ). You might want to switch the the pressures you're running - try running 5 psi higher in front than the back - higher front tire pressure is the general rule to try to reduce the amount of understeering. -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#8
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Hey Bill, do you have any larger rear bars hanging around that I could pick up from ya? I don't want to go through the trouble of replacing bushings unless I have a bigger bar to put it. I also felt that on the course(stock alignment specs) that the rear just didn't want to come around... I have been looking for a rear bar but turned up nada. Mychailo was saying he is looking to build one but no word yet on the estimated date. Let me know where I could get one, or if you have one for a car setup like mine, would you sell it??
TOm |
#9
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#10
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Yeah I think that was alot of your cars problem, I could get my car to kick around just just enough to make the corner transition pretty fast but your car just seemed to plow through all the corners. I know the Porter springs are harder than the regular G.C. springs and my car is a little lighter in places than yours, or it may just be my tires and alignment. I would like to try a larger bar in the rear but I think it might end up being to much. But it would be fun to try.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs. 91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch. 78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered) 90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car) To many cars to spend time on teh web! |
#11
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I've got a stock rear bar that I replaced the stock end bushings with solid Al bushings that made it more effective, but still not enough for me. I could make a bar for you, but it would take around a month and run close to $300 (solid chrome moly bar stock + heat treating to bring it back to the right strength after bending + custom, heim-ended end links). A 3/4 inch bar (19mm) would probably be about right, given you're running the stock front bar. Try PM'ing Mychailo, as he might already have a 19mm rear bar available. -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#12
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Interesting....so running the front tires at a higher pressure than the back tires results in slower times for the racecar? -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#13
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Since the front end of my car tended to plow, I would think the lower the pressure in the front and higher in the rear would be much more effective for my application. I would think lower pressure in the rear would work much better for the racer as it is much lighter than stock in the rear tending to let it free much easier. I doubt the front end has lost as much weight as the rear. For an SVX in street trim the lower pressure in the front and higher in the rear would be much more effective. Since the racer has lost so much weight it totally throws methods for anyone else out the window. I am not speaking out of experience but simple physics.
Tom |
#14
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Tom |
#15
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Tom,
Yeah, I'll bring it with me...just send me a PM when we get closer to the 17th so I remember to toss it in the car. -Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
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