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#16
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I checked the hose - it is nice and tight at both ends. I pulled it off and put it back on to make sure.
I also checked the connection a the MAF and wiggled it some - not sure exactly where you crimped it. So far I still have the CEL.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#17
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Could be real.
If you remember, my brother initially alerted me by saying that with TWO oxysensor codes, it was less likely to be a component failure, and more likely to be bad connection, or drawing air somewhere at the intake that it shouldn't.
I suspect my narrow fuel pressure reg vacuum pipe was the culprit. However, there were a number of other things I also tightened up, you may want to check those before you part with cash for devices: There is an earth connection for the loom to the MAF connected to the bulkhead below the wires. I took it off, cleaned and tightened it. The rubber hoses from the airbox to the camshaft covers, loose also, I tightened them with hose clips. Also any other pipe that felt loose. These rubber hoses connect to a straight-through hard plastic pipe, seemingly plastic welded to the airbox. At the left side, this was damaged, could have been drawing air, so I sealed it with plastic putty. The connector to the MAF sensor, it has five female connections, four of them have wires connecting. Looking into it, you can tighten each connector a little with a needle nosed pliers. Don't over do it, not necessary and you could damage it. My car is now runing very well, and no codes. If all the above do not clear the codes for you, there are only two options left; bad connection/s to one or more device, or the devices are actually broken. And the ECU could be one of these faulty devices. You would have to drop the dashboard panel, and demount the ECU and TCU, then check voltages and resistance between the sensors and the computer. No other way, I'm afraid. Best of luck with the hunt. Joe PS I have done about 500kms now, every kind of driving, no codes, knock on wood.
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