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#1
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Drilled Brake Rotors for SVX
Hi All,
I have a 92 SVX and the breaks (I believe stock) are wearing off kind of. When I start to brake it's not a smooth stop, but rather bumpy so I don't feel too confident in them. I know the rotors of these SVX's were not built to withstand the huge weight of the car, but what exactly do I need to change? Rotors and pads? Is there anything else. What kind of rotors and pads (and if there's anything else) do I need to get. How are these rotors here on EBAY? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564 Please tell me what you think. Any advice is highly appreciated! Cheers! Julian |
#2
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Uneven-ness is caused by uneven pad deposits, the result of improper break-in, or crappy pads. Don't bother getting new rotors.
Buy some new performance pads such as Axxis metal masters, axxis ultimates, or similar pads, and then take your rotors to a decent machine shop; they'll turn them for about $10 a pop. - Rob |
#3
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Agreed. Cross-drilled rotors have the tendency to form cracks around the holes - I can't even begin to imagine how poor discount drilled rotors would be. Get your old rotors turned and upgrade to a more aggressive brake pad. Brake problem solved!
-Chike Quote:
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"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#4
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i have them rotors on my car now for about 5months and have no problem with them got them from same place i can fell the diff when braking
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#5
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92 black svx:
http://www.broderbund.com/product.asp?OID=4154422 Please click that link before submitting anything else. - Rob |
#6
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Quote:
__________________
2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
#7
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haha I'm like that, too.
Thanks for the advice anyways, guys! J. |
#9
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Quote:
- Rob |
#10
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Quote:
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#11
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I would agree. The dimple drilled or slotted rotors are good rotors as well. One other modification you can do that really helps is to replace the brake lines with stainless steel lines. They are anywhere from $80 to $125 depending where you purchase them.
One other thing that is free that may help is to torque all of the wheel lug nuts at the same setting. Many times when I have done this for others, there is a surpirsing difference in the torque. This will also help the rotors from warpping. Good luck.
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#12
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Quote:
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#13
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Quote:
Pockets, read this page: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm With crappy pads, you can easily exceed their designed temperature, then get uneven pad deposits, form cementite, and bam, some parts of the rotor wear away faster than other parts. This is what people THINK is rotor warpage. Get the rotors turned. Get better pads. The problem is solved. - Rob |
#14
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We have been here before Rob, the article is good but not definitive.
If the lug nuts are over tightenened, the rotors will warp. If not corrected soon enough, the uneven wear will make them unuseable. Skimming is only a temporary measure for both problems. Warped or tempered rotors will need replacing. There are two ways to go with aftermarket pads. Hard pads like Axxis wear away the rotors quickly but keep a good surface. Soft pads like Greenstuff sacrifice themselves rather than the rotor to give the same end result. I prefer the latter, but that is just my personal choice.
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Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If I would be a young man again and had to decide how to make my living, I would not try to become a scientist or scholar or teacher. I would rather choose to be a plumber or a peddler in the hope to find that modest degree of independence still available under present circumstances. -- Albert Einstein, The Reporter, November 18 1954 |
#15
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I've got one way of prooving it.... Talk to Jason Porter on this... He now has slotted rotors from Race concepts... They are just plain slotten (No fancy cryo-treating or anything)... Honestly, I haven't seen how any of ya drive but I would put $10 that Porter is the most Agressive SVX driver on this Network. We have taken 2 trips to the Dragon since the NASIOC meet last year, not counting all the other times he beat his SVX up and down the Dragon. His Rotors have not warped at all... He will stand by the cheap pad thing too... Slotted rotors kinda negate that though since they slice away layers of the pad when ya brake... All I'm saying is that I've never had a problem with my rotors at all and I've driven them pretty hard up and down some mountian roads... So I will always lean twards the pads being the problem... If I don't upgrade my brakes to an aftermarket setup then I'm going Slotted Rotors and SS lines all around with Axis Ultimates in the Front and Metal Masters in the Rear... Very cost effective brake upgrade!!! May even do this before the Dragon meet this year... If I do then I'll be sure to post about it....
__________________
2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
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