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  #16  
Old 01-17-2006, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
- turn the PS pulley, Alt pulley and tensioner by hand. All should spin free and quiet.
Put a screw driver on the nut or body of the accessory and spin the pulley with your ear on the handle of the screw driver. If you detect a grinding, the bearing is seizing up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
- inspect crank pully for separation
The crank pulley is actually two pieces (inner diam. and outer) separated by rubber. this is where it would "separate". If it looks okay, look on the plastic cover behind the crank pulley to see if it has been chewing a circle out of it. If it has, it is definitly in need of replacement.
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2006, 11:19 PM
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Dripping oil? Is your O-ring ok?
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2006, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ensteele
Dripping oil? Is your O-ring ok?
My o ring didn't result in fluid there, but he could be leaking more than me and drive with the belly pan off maybe. the fittings are probably leaking on the rack. I wouldn't recommend messing with them more than just verifying that they are not moving.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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  #19  
Old 01-18-2006, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
- remove belt & inspect for missing chunks, wear
- turn the PS pulley, Alt pulley and tensioner by hand. All should spin free and quiet.
- inspect crank pully for separation

If all appear to be ok put the belt back on and tighten properly. If it still squeals tighten a bit more. (repeat as necessary)
Just install new belts in the process Pavan. Do not go with used ones unless they have been changed recently.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2006, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedklix
Put a screw driver on the nut or body of the accessory and spin the pulley with your ear on the handle of the screw driver. If you detect a grinding, the bearing is seizing up.
No, this is not how it is done for a "beginner mechanic". In Pavan's case, he should bring a 15-20" hose, one end at the PSP and the other on his ear. He will hear a grinding (metal to metal) noise coming from the pump when it is running. You can compare the noise by also putting the hose end at the dynamo next to the PSP...
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1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon)
1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration
2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.

Last edited by SilverSpear; 01-18-2006 at 02:32 AM.
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  #21  
Old 01-18-2006, 09:50 AM
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Yep, It should be; since I replaced it in Jan of 2005.

-Pavan
Quote:
Originally Posted by ensteele
Dripping oil? Is your O-ring ok?
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  #22  
Old 01-18-2006, 09:52 AM
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Thanks Danny, I will check all of the things and keep you updated.

-Pavan
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSpear
No, this is not how it is done for a "beginner mechanic". In Pavan's case, he should bring a 15-20" hose, one end at the PSP and the other on his ear. He will hear a grinding (metal to metal) noise coming from the pump when it is running. You can compare the noise by also putting the hose end at the dynamo next to the PSP...
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  #23  
Old 01-18-2006, 01:31 PM
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yeah danny, the tube is probably a better idea for him.

Not sure what your knowledge is pavan... but when you crawl under there to look at the rack, look at the hose ends where they connect to the rack. If you see slits in the end of the hose, replace it. Even if the clamp is on tight the hoses harden with time and those small breaks, while they may not go past the clamp, do form a passage between the line (pipe/connector/etc) and the hose where the pressure forces fluid out. Also be sure not to tighten the clamp too much as over tightening will cause the end of the hose to "mushroom" and encourage splits. When I was chasing leaks, I found that the rack had been serviced and whoever did it tightened the clamps as much as they could.

I would switch out the fluid with atf if the bearings on the accessories and the belt check out fine as danny described. If you do need to remove those hoses... that'll sort of force you to replace alot of it anyway. I could be wrong (anyone chime in) but I think the silicone content of PSfluid causes it to flow through the rack insufficiently. If you find that you do need to replace some hoses.. flush the system after with something like lubegard. Hose material, paint, and varnish can end up in your rack and slow fluid, and this helps loosen it. you may even have little bit of rust in there if it was running with low fluid. Flushing with an additive isn't tremendously important, but it does help a bit.

I was just under the car earlier today and was thinking I should share all that with yeah incase you didn't already know. I hope all goes well, and you solve the problem quick.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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  #24  
Old 01-18-2006, 01:39 PM
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more useless info...

I just noticed this thread from huck.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30945
You may want to keep that in mind if the high hose is bad on yours.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker

Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ?
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  #25  
Old 01-18-2006, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedklix
I just noticed this thread from huck.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30945
You may want to keep that in mind if the high hose is bad on yours.
Thanks for the useful info. Coming to hoses, untill last week the hose which huck is talkin abt is having a bad clamp and it pop off a couple of times on the road when i turn the wheel really fast. I have fixed it with new clamp and now the oil is dripping drop by drop. Anyway i will check for the hoses and all the fluid lines along with bearing. If its bearing I would be happy to replace it using Danny's write-up on that .

-Pavan.
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  #26  
Old 01-18-2006, 03:35 PM
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We are all with you Pav, don't be afraid, jsut get a sledgehammer and crack open that PSP and check what's happening inside... if there will be something left of of it...of course
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1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration
2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.
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