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#1
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Problem in rear of car
I have started to have an issue with one of my SVX's and I am puzzled as to what could cause it. It was running great until today, today whenever I let off of the gas it makes a loud thumping coming from the rear end. This happens when the brakes are NOT applied, and when the brakes are applied from going 65-70mph. Does not happen if braking at slower speeds. At first I thought it was the muffler making a funny noise, like a popping, but it sounds more like something is loose because I can feel it in the car also. When looking under the back end I do not see anything obviously loose. Could this be the rear diff acting up?
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1992 Subaru SVX 5spd 1998 Pontiac Firebird Formula 1999 Chevrolet Camaro SS 2009 Subaru Forester - Mileage Junky 2009 Pontiac G8 GT 2017 Ford Mustang GT 6spd |
#2
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You might want to take a look at your rear trans mount. Is it one thump or multiples?
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#3
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Quote:
Multiples. It does it at least 5-6 times, but only when going fast, once it slows down to say 45 it doesnt do it anymore.
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1992 Subaru SVX 5spd 1998 Pontiac Firebird Formula 1999 Chevrolet Camaro SS 2009 Subaru Forester - Mileage Junky 2009 Pontiac G8 GT 2017 Ford Mustang GT 6spd |
#4
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Well as of right now I'm not positive what it could be. If it were my car I'd start with the motor, trans, and diff mounts, any movement there could be felt in the car. I've had bad motor mounts in other cars cause the exhaust pipes to hit the underbody under deceleration. I'd say a u-joint in the drive shaft, but they usually cause a vibration similar to an unbalanced tire, but I'm unsure about the center joint in our cars so I can't rule that out. One would think a failing rear diff would give problems under acceleration as well. Long story short, rule out the easy/cheap fixes before jumping in head first! Hope this helps.
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#5
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it's hard to guess about things like this cause you are hearing a noise when unloading the drive train...it could be any of the mounts or the the joints in the drive shaft. I don't think there is any diagnosing it without getting under there and pulling on things. Unfortunately, in my experience the drive shaft usually has to be pulled before you can really detect a bad u joint. Personally I would bet on a u joint but like i said...who knows. If it's a U joint I know tomsvx has figured out how to replace the U joints without just buying a new shaft (my cars have new shafts. around here $350 is less than it costs to have a good driveline shop redo your driveshaft.)
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