My Copper Intake Mod - Page 3

svxash · #31 10-10-2005, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverSpear

Trunk Monkey?? what is that???

Scroll down to the videos on this site, click on them and you will see what a trunk monkey is

http://www.trunkmonkey.com/

SilverSpear · #32 10-11-2005, 12:57 AM

IS THAT IT???

WOOOOOOOOOOW i like it !!!! i am gonna order one..

SilverSpear · #33 10-16-2005, 03:56 PM

I wrapped the copper with isolator heat resistant tape, then thick rubber compound (you can see a piece form it between the two tubes inthe third picture below) then again the same isolator tape... now even a NUKE cannot reach the copper

:

gimme some opinions...

SilverSpear · #34 10-16-2005, 04:00 PM

there are still the tubes that go to the intake still not finished because maybe i will cut like an inch from them... and the long copper tube that is fixed to them... so i need some more time to get it right.

NikFu S. · #35 10-16-2005, 05:36 PM

Copper is notorious for accumulating condensation.

Air and water do not harm it however.

McTaff · #36 10-17-2005, 07:46 AM

Looks interesting, I'd like to see how well it goes. I'm not totally convinced it will work in any spectactular fashion, but it should work well before the copper body heats up.

My suspicion is that the heat will take a while to soak up, but it eventually will soak up the heat in the engine bay (Particularly from the protruding copper attachments and so on). Once this happens it'll take a long time to cool down even after the car is switched off.

Asbestos is illegal to have anywhere in Australia, so we can't use that qapproach.

I would have sandwiched cooling coils between concentric tubes, and put heat-reflective lining on the outside. Intake charge should stay at ambient temperature all the way to the manifold. Cooling tubes would be returned to ambient with a small cooler mounted in the wheel well, or on a bonnet scoop...

SilverSpear · #37 10-17-2005, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McTaff

Looks interesting, I'd like to see how well it goes. I'm not totally convinced it will work in any spectactular fashion, but it should work well before the copper body heats up.

My suspicion is that the heat will take a while to soak up, but it eventually will soak up the heat in the engine bay (Particularly from the protruding copper attachments and so on). Once this happens it'll take a long time to cool down even after the car is switched off.

Asbestos is illegal to have anywhere in Australia, so we can't use that qapproach.

I would have sandwiched cooling coils between concentric tubes, and put heat-reflective lining on the outside. Intake charge should stay at ambient temperature all the way to the manifold. Cooling tubes would be returned to ambient with a small cooler mounted in the wheel well, or on a bonnet scoop...

I didn't use asbestos but rather a think rubber compound you can see above in the third pic and heat resistant tape. as for the sticky parts, they will be covered with the rubber tubing and the parts where they will not be covered with that tubing, i will cover them with the Rubba

PS: Heat is not allowed and at any cost

Just lemme wrap it up, i am waiting my friend who helped me welding the stuff (Joe) just to give me 1 hour of his time

because he is really busy now...

Matthewmongan · #38 10-17-2005, 10:43 AM

copper does oxidize... fast. depending on whats in the air if coper is left unfinished it will become black. thats why on audio aplications and computer stuff the coper is gold plated as the gold will not oxidize.

TomsSVX · #39 10-17-2005, 11:00 AM

Um, danny what are you looking to do with this? I mean there is a reason there are bends rather than sharp angles on the stock tubing... Listen, it may be a good idea on paper, but I do not see you reaching any gains from this, so why are you doing it?? I don't want to be rash but realistic

Tom

svxcess · #40 10-17-2005, 11:31 AM

I am wondering how much more this unit, with all the copper, insulation, rubber and tape weigh over the stock unit. Will you really get that much more power to offset this?

SilverSpear · #41 10-17-2005, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Um, danny what are you looking to do with this? I mean there is a reason there are bends rather than sharp angles on the stock tubing... Listen, it may be a good idea on paper, but I do not see you reaching any gains from this, so why are you doing it?? I don't want to be rash but realistic

Tom

Tom there was a mention in another thread that copper cools more than other metals, so i am wrapping it with isolator and letting real cold air gets inside it from the outside. Copper will cool more and more as more air gets sucked from outside and the isolator will help me out to get the best results possible... i will be testing it for days to come...

I didn't get the thing of bends and sharp angles....

TomsSVX · #42 10-17-2005, 01:14 PM

the stock plastic intake is flowing with mandrel bends, your setup has a sharp turn to get to the collector which will acutally disrupt smooth airflow.

While copper may cool down the air comming in, it will not cool it enough to make any difference. The air is heated mainly in the intake manifold so your 1 degrees difference that you may acheive will not make a lick of difference by the time it reaches the cylinders... Sorry to disapoint

Tom

SilverSpear · #43 10-17-2005, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

the stock plastic intake is flowing with mandrel bends, your setup has a sharp turn to get to the collector which will acutally disrupt smooth airflow.

While copper may cool down the air comming in, it will not cool it enough to make any difference. The air is heated mainly in the intake manifold so your 1 degrees difference that you may acheive will not make a lick of difference by the time it reaches the cylinders... Sorry to disapoint

Tom

Tom, life is based on trial and error, i am not saying that my setup will work 100%, i am just exploiting all possibilities. The major work is to be achieved on the level of the external K&N and not inside the engine bay.

i am having high hopes on the work inside the fender. I am just wishing that what i have in mind will work, if not, it won't be worse than the stock setup.

elvis · #44 10-17-2005, 02:09 PM

Copper, like all metals, does not cool anything. What is does do (and very well) is transfer heat from one place to another. Silver and gold are better conductors (and don't oxidize or corrode like copper eventually does) but are clearly too expensive here.

If you have something hot, and something cold, and connect them with a piece of copper, the heat will tend to transfer from the hot thing to the cold thing. This is called a heat-exchanger. You've got one in your air conditioner, heater, refridgerator, etc. The best ones are copper, the decent ones are aluminum, and the cheapo ones are steel or tin, etc. In automove use copper is almost never used because it's so heavy - race cars have aluminum radiators, not copper.

In this case, you've only got a hot thing - the engine bay. The air going through the intake pipe is almost always going to be cooler than the engine bay so the idea of insulating the air is a good one. But copper is not a good insulator, its a good conductor. So by wrapping the air in copper you are creating a good pathway for the heat from the engine bay to transfer to the air, not away from it. Your copper pipe will certainly heat up from the temperature of the air going through it, as well as the friciton that the moving air creates (especially from the bad bends). Where do you expect this heat to go if you have insulated the copper pipe?

We all get it that if you touch a piece of copper it will feel cold. That's because your hand is at around 98.6 degrees, and the copper is less than that (unless you are in a 98.6 degree room) so the heat from your hand will transfer to the copper. Once you hold the copper in your hand for a while it no longer feels cold, that's because the temperature of the two things has equalized. If you put gloves on and touch the copper does it feel cold?

SilverSpear · #45 10-17-2005, 02:20 PM

You are right about what you mentioned, the only problem that can cause the system to fail is on the level of the manifold. For that copper will not touch the manifold, i will do a rubber extension and cover the twintubes from the inside with insulating tape. The only thing that caf fail is the transfer of hot air from the manifold to the copper piping on the level if direct intake.

But what i am sure of is that i will be pumping very cold air to the inside of the copper but I can be "screw*d" on the level of heated air transfer from manifold to copper system...

This is why i put a fan inside the system... hoping to work? I may turn out to be the silliest and stupidist idea ever or a genius one??? i still dunno

But what i know is that i always have the incentive and will for the best... isn't it???