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#1
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Getting water out of the tailight lenses
Does anyone know a trick to get moisture out of the tailight lenses? There appears to be an inner and outer part to the lense with water trapped between. I haven't removed the assemblies but will if it's necessary.
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#2
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Most common way is to drill a little hole at the bottom of the assembly to let the water drain out. I had mild success pulling the assembly and lamps and putting a hairdryer in for a bit. Until it blew a circuit in my house. Have now decided to live with it, as I'm not totally comfortable drilling through the assembly. You can use electrical tape or caulk or just about anything to seal up the light better to keep more water from getting in. I'm sure other folks have other solutions...
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#3
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While it still has water in it why not submerge it and find the leak? Then drain it and use hair drier then seal with hot glue gun.
Beav |
#4
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I've heard (from Aredub - I think) that if you just change the rubber gasket (after drying them out with a hair dryer or something) it won't come back. I haven't tried it yet - but I need to. Others have suggested putting a dessicant pack in each lens, but the amount of moisture I get would certainly over work anything but a five-pound bag.
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Steve '95 Polo Green SVX L AWD, 188K - "Kermit" (Gone, but not forgotten) '02 Outback LLBean, 56K '02 Black Sapphire Volvo V40, 133K - "Shadowfax" '06 Triumph Tiger, 19K '99 Suzuki DR350SE, 8.5K - "Geezer Killer" <*}}}}>< ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ><{{{{*> |
#5
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Quote:
I believe this will work (worked for me) if there isn't a sealing problem in the unit itself. And, the trick is, to change the gaskets at the first signs of condensation. If you let too much moisture build up (to the point of puddling at the bottom of the lens), you're all set to perpetuate the problem, since the moisture will continue to condense when the sun hits it. One member took his assemblies out and put them in the oven (do a search on the Yahoo archive -- aka "Message Archive" at the top of the page), and, of course, the "drill method" has been mentioned.
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#6
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The hair dryer worked great! I put both tailight assemblies in a box with the hair dryer on low and pointed into the holes on the red end. It took about 3 hours for all the moisture to leave but it did. I put them in a box because things seemed to work better if the whole asssemblies got hot. I bet a convection oven on about 130 deg would work great.
I'm sure new gaskets will keep the water out in the future. |
#7
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because i'm dumb and lazy, anyone have the part numbers for the replacement rubber gaskets?
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#8
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Quote:
Gasket, Lamp LH Same as above Gasket for center panel, R&L 84940PA040 (in other words you need 2)
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#9
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No need to buy new gaskets... I took them out, coated the gaskets with armorall, put em back in, condensation went away within a week, and never came back.
-Mike |
#10
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Quote:
Yes, if you remove them and they look to be in good shape, just clean them and swap sides -- that may do the trick and save some bucks (although the gaskets aren't that expensive).
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#11
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This problem finally struck me this winter. I took out the assemblies and gave them and the gaskets a good cleaning. Switched the gaskets but they are pretty old, I'm going to order new ones soon. But when looking at the assemblies I was wondering about other problem areas. It seems like they aren't built exactly airtight anyway. The part where the lens attaches to the rest of the assembly. There's like plastic clips holding it on and it seems like I could almost see through a tiny space there into the lens. My lens don't look damaged or aged (aside from the gaskets) so I'm assuming this is normal? Will the gaskets solve the problem? Just seems like moisture could still get in through those spaces but maybe not. Seems like replacing or adjusting the gaskets has worked for every body so maybe I am just being overly paranoid.
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Troy 1992 SVX LSL "Serenity" 250,000 miles! I don't care, I'm still free, You can't take the sky from me... |
#12
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I came home, I opened the hood (trunk) and took the lights out. Took the lights indoors. Drilled 6 tiny holes (3 on top 3 on bottom).
No water since. lwin
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Lwin M. Maung (Member # 147) Current SVX: NONE Previous SVXes: 1994 LE Barcelona Red 107k 1992 LS-L Pearl White 143k 1994 LSi Bordeaux Pearl 220k 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 184k 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 145k 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 102k 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 123k Other current cars:2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black If at first you don't succeed, CHEAT!
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#13
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I became inspired by reading all of the solutions on the moisture in the taillights, and because I also have moisture, I decided to do it too. I pulled them off of the car, and thought I would use my convected oven. I set it to 135 and watched them like very closely to make sure I had no problems. I checked them very often, and after about 30 min. I decided to do the hair dryer and box routine instead. It worked great, and after about a hour, the moisture was gone. My gaskets were almost shot, so I swapped sides, and ordered new ones. I left the center section until the gaskets get here. I think the oven would work, but I was just a little nervous about what might happen in there. I could just see puddles of red plastic in the oven.
Earl
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=silver]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#14
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I'd strongly suggest not using an oven! Great for the headlights, bad for the tail lights
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything." 92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration 96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD Wanted: Steering Wheel |
#15
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Hope that was the only one. Good thing these are from the less expensive side of the car.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
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