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  #16  
Old 05-18-2005, 11:15 AM
UniqueAngle
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Please tell me you're joking about sanding your tires. If you're serious though - go buy new ones. You're now driving on tires where the structural integrity is compromised. In English - you're just counting time until a tire failure/blow-out happens. Not smart!
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  #17  
Old 05-18-2005, 01:01 PM
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Unless he sanded into the cords he hasn't compromised the structural integrity of the tire(s). No worse than tires worn from misalignment.
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2005, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
Unless he sanded into the cords he hasn't compromised the structural integrity of the tire(s). No worse than tires worn from misalignment.
Hey Beav? Why do tires cup?
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2005, 09:49 AM
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I had all 4 tires cup on my car last year alaong with side wall cracking. The manufacturer replaced them under the warranty. Pro rated to tire wear.

Last edited by SVX_MY_BABY; 05-22-2005 at 09:53 AM.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2005, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svx_commuter
Why do tires cup?
Here is a link to why. Scroll down a bit.

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/tr/tr129622.htm
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  #21  
Old 05-23-2005, 12:41 PM
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Besides the info on cupping I found this....

"Some low profile tires (mostly performance tires), tend to develop uneven wear patterns because of their belt and tread design. As the tire rolls along, the deflection and squirming of the tread produces harmonics that cause certain areas of the tread or ribs to wear more than others. The wear pattern can be further compounded by other factors such as toe misalignment, wheel imbalance, wheel runout, underinflation or lack of rotation. After awhile, a "heel and toe" or "washboard" wear pattern may develop that generates annoying noise and vibrations at speeds above 40 mph. Once the wear pattern is established, it's too late to reverse it by rotating the tires. So the only cure you can recommend is to replace the tires and possibly switch to another brand or style that is less "quirky." "

.......and this more in-line with the wear I see on my tires. I think the term "cupping" applies to wear across the entire surface of the tire.

So, I get most of the wear on the side of the tire next to the engine. What way can I adjust the aligment to try for better tread wear? Less camber and more toe in?
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  #22  
Old 05-23-2005, 01:01 PM
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I was thinking about the Yoko AVS db I bought, used, from Jlittell. It was completely worn EVENLY across the width and all the way around. All the tires I ran became uneven at some point and one was a lot worse than the others.

I would like to know what he used for the alignment setting and for tire pressure.
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  #23  
Old 05-23-2005, 02:05 PM
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Aside from the cupping, my tire wear has been very even. My mechanic told me that Subaru Suspensions tend to work best with tires that have a rounded shoulder area (like Michelin Pilot) rather than a square shoulder like many of the newer tires. When I think of it. I ran my origional Potenza's until they were almost bald and they were even all over. They had a round shoulder. I've always had the dealer spec used for alignment, run a pound or two higher than the spec on the door and rotate every 7 - 8000 km.
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  #24  
Old 05-23-2005, 02:13 PM
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A bit off the topic, but speaking of tires with rounded shoulders; I would think that they would handle better. Last year in Formula One Michelin developed a tire which had a tread along the shoulder/sidewall area that became a contact point when the tire rolled under cornering stress. The FIA made them stop using it as it created an unfair advantage against the Bridgestone runners.
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