Replacement of leaking power steering pump, pressure hose and rack

[plantchick]

Turns out the 'minor' oil leak I was told of before I purchased my girl isn't so minor after all; the power steering pressure hose has a hole in it and the steering pump and rack are both leaking. The boots are intact, but full of fluid.

All of the above were easy for me to see when she was on the hoist today, even with limited mechanical knowledge.

I talked it over with the CV/Steering specialist guy who said the most urgent was the pressure hose and pump, but that the rack would probably be ok for six months or so, as long as I checked the fluid every few weeks and kept it topped up.

I know it would be cheaper in the long run to get it all done at once, but given that I've just bought her (two weeks) and had some work done, it'll be a tough ask.

I'd appreciate your opinions on what, if any, problems I might cause if I delay doing the rack for a few months.

This might sound strange, but I haven't noticed any real problems with the steering, other than finding it heavier than I expected from a sports tourer. That said, I don't have much to compare it to - my previous (and only) car was an '82 Benz who's steering was even heavier.

There's a slight noise on full turn, that I associated as the pump working on a heavier load. Other than that, no sqeaking, squealing, shuddering or jerking.

Hope I've given enough/the right information.

Thanks,

Tania.

[Hocrest]

For the hose, you may want to look at getting it rebuilt by a hydraulic hose shop, rather than purchasing new. In the US most shops will rebuild one for about $30 compared to $70 for a new one.

As to the leak at the pump, there are instructions in the "How To" documents on replacing the O ring in the PS pump, this $1 repair takes care of most PS Pump leaks.

Another item you'll want to look at is the low pressure return hose, it runs behind the right side of the engine, next to the high pressure line. This hose can be replaced with a couple feet of standard 3/8" atf line.

[plantchick]

Hi Horcrest,

Originally Posted by Hocrest

For the hose, you may want to look at getting it rebuilt by a hydraulic hose shop, rather than purchasing new. In the US most shops will rebuild one for about $30 compared to $70 for a new one.

I'd be happy with $70 at this point! I've been quoted $166AU for hoses, but I believe that was for replacing all hoses. (whole job quote including labour is $1212AU) How are hoses rebuilt, as in, how do they patch or cover holes? (its about 2mm)

As to the leak at the pump, there are instructions in the "How To" documents on replacing the O ring in the PS pump, this $1 repair takes care of most PS Pump leaks.

I have these printed out and have been poring over them the past couple of days. The O-ring between pump and reservoir I'm confident I could manage, but the bearing and O-ring in the pump itself look kinda scary. ummm... I've never even heard of locking ring pliers before.

Another item you'll want to look at is the low pressure return hose, it runs behind the right side of the engine, next to the high pressure line. This hose can be replaced with a couple feet of standard 3/8" atf line.

So many things to learn! I know a lot of parts can be replaced with aftermarkets & alternatives, but learning which....
Can what's currently holding the hoses be reused or would they need to be replaced as well?

I'd really like to learn and I'm a pretty quick study, but the most I've ever done is change oil and flush a radiator.

I do have a US service manual, though! Well, at least most of it. The STIS site was kinda screwy on the '92 SVX manual.

Thanks for your help, Horcrest. Much appreciated.

Tania.

[JLHollowX13]

i did my pressure hose a while back, i got it for 99usd from subaruparts. it was a quick install, and the new hose has held up awesome. you only have to undo 2 parts to replace the hose, and it simply runs next to the engine, so its pretty easy to throw on. i would suggest that you try and do that yourself as it would probably save you alot of money. with these cars as old as they are doing anything yourself will save you alot.

[plantchick]

Originally Posted by JLHollowX13

You only have to undo 2 parts to replace the hose, and it simply runs next to the engine, so its pretty easy to throw on. i would suggest that you try and do that yourself as it would probably save you alot of money. with these cars as old as they are doing anything yourself will save you alot.

I had a look today and see what you mean but it doesn't look possible without it being up on jacks, which I don't have yet. Agreed on doing what I can myself - gonna do my best to learn - I'll get there, just might take me awhile!

[dcarrb]

Originally Posted by plantchick

I'd appreciate your opinions on what, if any, problems I might cause if I delay doing the rack for a few months.

No expert here, and I certainly don't advocate postponing needed suspension part repairs, but I drove one of mine with a blown boot and minor rack leak for many months, checking/topping the PS reservoir weekly. So long as the leak is minor and steering performance is unaffected, I don't think you're hurting anything to wait.

dcb

[Hocrest]

When they rebuild the HP hose they basically reuse the metal ends and put a new hose of the proper rating beteween them. In the states some auto part stores do it, someplaces you need to find a place that repairs hyraulic driven heavy equipment like front end loaders.

Unless you know that the pump is bad, just do the tank O-ring first, that has solved many people problems.

For the low pressure hose, you can reuse the clamps if they're in good shape. If any doubt, get new. I prefer the Subaru clamps that are heavy wire looped around with a screw, some like the normal worm clamp (flat strap with screw threads cut into it). For the hose, not sure if it would be called 3/8" down there, take a piece of the old to any autoparts store and tell them you need a couple feet of it, if they ask what it's for, tell them for an Auto Trans fluid cooler.

[kwren]

the quality of the "worm" clamps vary a lot. Some are garbage and just look like stainless steel. If you get good stainless steel ones they are great but the bad ones can be stripped by barely tightening them. The origional Subaru clamps usually are good ... might but a drop if oil on it where the threads are.

Keith

[plantchick]

Originally Posted by kwren

the quality of the "worm" clamps vary a lot. Some are garbage and just look like stainless steel. If you get good stainless steel ones they are great but the bad ones can be stripped by barely tightening them.

'ta Keith. I asked the parts guys to show me them both today and I can see what you mean - the difference in quality is obvious if you know to look.

[plantchick]

Guys thanks for all your help - I understand a whole lot more than I did this morning.

My next question - is only the inner core of the pressure hose meant to be clamped to the fitting, with the surrounding rubber hose a couple of inches down and not clamped? A solid pipe runs accross the gap (the pressure pipe?). Is the gap because of heat from the pipe? Looks like it'd be a tight squeeze for the rubber hose, too.

Please ignore the next post at will - its just background on the issue.

*smiles wryly* I cut it from here 'cause of how long it turned out.

Tania.

[plantchick]

Thanks for the explanation on the hoses and clamps Horcrest. Spent a large part of the day traipsing around parts places and did get info on a place that reconditions hoses. Nope, aint 3/8" - we use real measurements here!
but can work it out, yeah. More on hoses below.

Originally Posted by Hocrest

Unless you know that the pump is bad, just do the tank O-ring first, that has solved many people problems.

heh... I don't know much about a whole lot, atm, but if I remember what I've read here correctly, pooling on the engine generally points to a pump problem. Still, I'd like to see how it affects the oil loss on its own.