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I'm building a car and racing it tomorrow
http://www.wink106.com/common/page.php?id=631
Myself and three other people need to build a pinewood derby car out of Legos and run it down an ice track. Any suggestions? I'm thinking we should keep the center of mass at the exact center of the car so, if it starts spinning on the ice, it won't wobble. Not sure about long and skinny versus short and wide or if a bigger wheelbase is better or worse in this case. I guess it depends on whether or not one assumes the car will lose traction and start spinning. If it spins, you don't want a large rotational inertia to rob you of energy. However, a large wheelbase might keep it from spinning. Since we won't have limited slip differentials (or will we...) I have to think it is likely we will lose traction one wheel at a time.
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Tony 1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads 2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil 2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil 1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything |
#2
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Re: I'm building a car and racing it tomorrow
I wouldn't bank on the track not having dividers to keep the cars apart. Too long a wheelbase might jam you between the dividers. You might want to wait until you see the track to make wheelbase decisions.
I'm torn between centered weight down low and hanging as much as possible on the downhill end. Again, the track may make that call. Aero is good too, even at this scale. Smooth lines, super low so no air can go under, heck even a rear diffuser sloped at the classic 15 degree angle! Make sure you have low rolling resistance. Smooth what you can. And align the wheels as well as you can manage too. And beer.
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1995 Caterham 7 Twincam 2002 Porsche 911 targa -- now with FSI 4.0L power! 2007 BMW 328i Cabriolet 2012 Tacoma 4wd v6 Access Cab 2013 Mercedes E350 4Matic Wagon 2005 STi - totaled after 10 great years 1994 SVX LSi 5spd - sold but not forgotten 2000 Legacy GT 5spd sedan - gone after 150K miles of bliss |
#3
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Re: I'm building a car and racing it tomorrow
One problem is that we will be limited to the box of Legos they give us.
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Tony 1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads 2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil 2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil 1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything |
#4
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Re: I'm building a car and racing it tomorrow
Nose heavy deltawing? Figure, the back would probably keep things straight.
Pics or it didn't happen!
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#5
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Re: I'm building a car and racing it tomorrow
Make sure to build it with AWD so you get the best traction.
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1992 Dark Teal LS-L w/ 165k+ miles (traded ) Mods: Power Slot front rotors, polyurethane sway bar bushings, window scratcher fix, SPD hood struts, Outlaw Engineering phenolic spacers, Bontrager Works 22mm rear sway bar, R-134a conversion, 93 Legacy SS 5 speed swap, Ceika coilovers, ARP head studs 2001 Black Toyota Sequoia (hauler/daily) 1992 Blue Toyota Cressida (drift car) 1992 Red Toyota MR2 (weekend/track day car) |
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