How Often do you....?

[svxjoe]

How often do you.......

Change your oil?

Drain/Re-fill transmission fluid?

Machine your rotors? (Front and back)

When should you......

Replace your spark plugs? (Is it a do-it-yourself job on the SVX?)

Replace any belts?


This is kinda like a poll. I'm just trying to figure out if a tune-up should be done soon. Thank-you for your response.

-SVXJoe

[DavieGravy]

If I had the money to do all that on a regular basis, I'd do it. But right now I'm trying to get by with the cheapest way possible.

Unfortunately, one of my back rotars looks like dog crap, so I'll be getting the two back ones turned this week. $14 each doesn't sound like a bad investment for stopping that vibration when I hit my brake peddle.

As far as oil, usually near every 3000 for me. Except now I have Amsoil wich supposedly lasts for 25000 miles. Hmmm... Mines been in for 10,000 and looks like... again, dog crap.

Please excuse my fairly rambling response.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by svxjoe
How often do you.......

Change your oil?

Drain/Re-fill transmission fluid?

Machine your rotors? (Front and back)

When should you......

Replace your spark plugs? (Is it a do-it-yourself job on the SVX?)

Replace any belts?


This is kinda like a poll. I'm just trying to figure out if a tune-up should be done soon. Thank-you for your response.

-SVXJoe

Oil: Regardless of any suggestions to the contrary by either Subaru or the oil manufacturer, I change my oil every 3,000 miles. Doing it more often can't hurt, less often can.

ATF: I don't remember what Subaru recommends. I'd recommend replacing it every 20k miles. Flushing is a matter of opinion, but I sure as hell wouldn't flush it backwards - forwards (with the normal fluid path) only.

Rotors: I wouldn't machine them unless they're warped and causing the brake pedal to pulse when you stop. If you stop smoothly, I wouldn't touch 'em.

I'm sorta torn on machining rotors, anyway. I bought noew rotors all around for my wife's Legacy. Sure, it cost twice what it would have to have her old ones turned, but they were so cheap, why bother? On the SVX, it's a little different - rotors are so damned expensive. But they're also prone to warping and machining them will only make them more prone.

Spark Plugs: The OEM plugs on the SVX are platinum and designed to last 100k miles. I replaced my original plugs this spring after 130k miles and they were all gapped as if they had just been installed at the factory. As for it bein a DIY job, that depends. Since mine had been in for so long, I had a real tough time with the boots that fit between the plugs and the coils. There's little to no room to work with, so I ended up buying all kinds of tools for the job. It took me an entire weekend, all told, to get the job done. If I did it again, I wouldn't have the problems I did last time, and I could probably do it in an hour.

Belts: I don't remember. Somewhere on this site is a service interval sheet that will tell you that everything I just typed is all wrong, though.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by DavieGravy
As far as oil, usually near every 3000 for me. Except now I have Amsoil wich supposedly lasts for 25000 miles. Hmmm... Mines been in for 10,000 and looks like... again, dog crap.

I would recommend changing that oil, man. Whether or not Amsoil products resist breaking down after that many miles is one thing - but it has collected a lot of dirt and other contaminants in that time.

Get it changed. You're not doing your car, or yourself, any favors.

[DavieGravy]

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets


I would recommend changing that oil, man. Whether or not Amsoil products resist breaking down after that many miles is one thing - but it has collected a lot of dirt and other contaminants in that time.

Get it changed. You're not doing your car, or yourself, any favors.

Thanks for the advice Mr. Pockets. I think I'll go ahead and get it changed. And that could be why my engine's been running slightly rough lately.
I'm kind of upset though. Amsoil products aren't cheap and I thought I'd be saving money in the long run not having to get my oil changed as frequently. Oh well.

[LarryIII]

Davie,

I use Mobil 1. It's changed every 3-5k miles along with filter.

[DavieGravy]

Originally posted by LarryIII
Davie,

I use Mobil 1. It's changed every 3-5k miles along with filter.

Both my sister and her husband swear by Amsoil. They leave it in their vehicles for 25k, top off as necessary, and change the filter every 12.5k. This is what you're supposed to do with this brand. I'm not sure how Amsoil compares to Mobil 1 though.

Anyway, it's strange that the oil would get so dirty so quick in my car. My sis doesn’t seem to have any problems with it.

I guess I'll put it down to experience and not use synthetic again.

I do my oil usually between every 3500 and 5000 miles.

I flush the transmission every 15,000-20,000 miles. (forward flush)

I would never turn my rotors.

Mike

[lee]

Amsoil's 25K claim is a marketing ploy - believe or or not - that's your choice (I don't, but then that's just MO).

Redline, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Neo, and any other PAO/Ester (Group IV/V) synthetic could make the same claim as Amsoil, but don't. Oil analysis doesn't reveal any miracle compound in Amsoil. The true key to long interval oil changes is the installation of a bypass filter setup in addition to the full-flow we all have now. That's what allows over-the-road drivers to go up to 300K miles on full synthetics like Mobil 1, 150K on regular oils (and of course they hold something like 24 quarts too).

In most regards I agree totally with Mr. Pockets. My only change would be to think you might get 5-6K miles if you use a Group IV/V synthetic oil.

[Beav]

Originally posted by lee
to 300K miles on full synthetics like Mobil 1, 150K on regular oils (and of course they hold something like 24 quarts too).

The last few times I changed oil in OTR trucks it was more like 48 - 60 quarts. It has been a few years though.

The point is, if you change your oil and filter at 3,000 mile intervals and keep your engine running as it should, you shouldn't experience any lubrication related problems for a very, very long time.

[Phil Hill]

I know I have mentioned this before but most european vehicles now have extended major service intervals. Peugeot now have a 20k mile major service interval on most models, with only an inspection at 10K. Multi-electrode spark plug and electronic control has extended the trouble free motoring period, and synthetic oil is *supposed* to be the canine's gonads........

Most europeans will change their oil either at the manufacturers recomendation, say 12K miles, or annually. I don't understand the difference in ethos in terms of oil changes between you guys and us guys......... I mean the oils the same right ??? The duty isn't any different, the range of temperatures isn't different, the product isn't different............

So what caused the difference ?? Are we europeans just lazy or don't care for our motors ?? Do we expect a vehicle to be worn-out/rusted-out/worthless by 120K miles so we don't care ?? Was there an influential advert campaign or brand war in the US way back that influenced the public so much that it's become ingrained in soceity ?? Hmmmmmmm..........

[Beav]

I can't tell you what the difference is between us.

I can see what collects inside an engine. When we have a customer that has a problem that is lube related, it's all too easy to print out the vehicle's history and observe its maintenance record. It becomes all too easy to add two plus two.

Maybe our differences lie in our lifestyles. A major factor here is the amount of short trips where the vehicle never maintains operating temperature long enough to evaporate condensates. Well over ninety percent of the vehicles we work on have severely contaminated oil, thick, syrup-like oil, even when hot. The oil that we drain from customer's cars in the three to five thousand mile range generally has some translucence remaining, mileage beyond that tends to produce increasingly opaque and thicker oil. I'd hazard to guess that the vast majority of oil related issues we witness are plugged sump screens, stuck piston rings and noisy valve lifters/followers, all clearly dirty/contaminated oil problems.

Granted we don't see near the number of these problems we did prior to the advent of electronic powertrain management, but the cars are also four to five times more expensive. I truly think that people here base their maintenance decisions on the effects to their pocketbooks rather than their appreciation for their vehicle. Personally I've never understood why some people want nice things when they have no intention of ever taking care of them. If you're going to turn something into a piece of rubbish through neglect why not just purchase a piece of rubbish to begin with and reap the savings? Please remember I'm referring to people here, I have had no exposure to how things operate on the other side of the pond.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by Phil Hill
So what caused the difference ?? Are we europeans just lazy or don't care for our motors ?? Do we expect a vehicle to be worn-out/rusted-out/worthless by 120K miles so we don't care ?? Was there an influential advert campaign or brand war in the US way back that influenced the public so much that it's become ingrained in soceity ?? Hmmmmmmm..........

I'm going out on a limb for it, but my guess is that the difference in recommended oil change intervals is based on the difference in cost-of-ownership between the US and some European countries. In the UK, don't you have some kind of expensive, frequent inspection?

Some states here have inspections every year or every other year, but not many. Some are total rackets. Some are based on hard numbers and test for emissions, while others are safety inspections and open for interpretation.

Most Americans don't maintain their cars and aren't required to by law. But if your country's laws affected the overall cost of owning your car, the manufacturer may adjust the service intervals to make the car more appealing.

I'll go even further out on a limb. If your country's laws make cars more expensive to own, maybe used cars aren't the value that they are here in the US. If fewer people are buying used cars because passing inspections is too expensive or too much of a hassle, then maybe manufacturers aren't as interested in recommending what's best for the car.

[Beav]

Davie,

I wasn't picking on you or anyone else in particular, I was replying to Phil's comment/query regarding the differences in maintenance on either side of the pond. I neither care if anyone's finances are earned or provided. I really don't care what anyone does with their money, I've enough problems of my own. However I do see, first-hand, the results of people that have nothing but problems caused by their own negligence. It's my job, it's what I do. The people are the ones that suffer the consequences, not me. All I have to put up with is bad-mouthing from a lot of people that know more about cars than I do, yet they have to bring them to me to be repaired. As far as I'm concerned that alone is worth $20/hour additional labor (I wish... ) I'm beginning to believe we're becoming a society of professional victims. Nothing is ever my fault, I did nothing to deserve this, somebody screwed me over, blah, blah, blah blah blah.

In regards to you deferring repairs to a late date - fine, you know what you need to do more than anyone else does, I hope. As long as you realize the consequences and are willing to risk them. From my observations most have that very outlook in the beginning, but then they allow too much time and too many items needing attention to build into something they'll never be able to afford and then the car ends up on the heap.

I certainly hope you have a wonderful and successful career. I hope that you are able to accomplish everything you set out to do. Just remember, I never singled anyone out here, you did that to yourself.

[lee]

Originally posted by Phil Hill
...snip...Most europeans will change their oil ...snip...I mean the oils the same right ??? The duty isn't any different, the range of temperatures isn't different, the product isn't different...snip...

I think the European specifications, i.e., ACEA A3/B3/B4 and MB 229 are NOT met by most US oil companies. Mobil 1 does, but the run of the mill Penzoil, Castrol, etc do not meet these specs - here in the US at least.