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  #1  
Old 11-25-2002, 03:44 AM
amuse
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AWD Binding getting stuck

Hi,

Some of you might remember a while back I asked about rear bumping/knocking that was happening during cornering.

As it was pointed out this was most likely due to the AWD binding getting stuck in a certain ratio and that the possible causes of this could be a duty solenoid and/or transfer clutch needing replacement.

What is a reasonable cost for having this done? (I'm in Australia by the way).

The Subaru mechanic said today that it takes a couple of hours to open the transmission up? They already replaced the transmission fluid today by the way - but the shudder didn't go away

Also, they mentioned another possible part to be replaced as the "small valve body" - anybody know what this refers to?

They're going ring me back with prices on all three parts tomorow - I just thought I get you guys' opinion first

I'm happy to report that the O-ring fix worked like a charm.. thanks again!

Cheers,
Pete.
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2002, 04:46 AM
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Hi Pete

This service, transfer clutch replacement, ran about $900 USD for me about a year ago.

Good luck
Todd
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2002, 05:20 AM
amuse
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ouch!

... that really hurts


If I need that in my case I'm going to have to pass I think. How bad is it to ignore the problem and keep driving the car?

Also, any idea how much it would cost to find out whether or not it is the transfer clutch that is the problem? (i.e. hours of labour?)

Thanks,
Pete.

p.s. I take it that "small valve body" didn't mean anything to you?
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2002, 06:15 AM
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binding...

Pete...

I had the same binding problem. The problem was the "duty C solinoid" (Subaru part # 31942AA090) It is located in the ass end of the tranny. This can be changed without removing the tranny. Good luck.

The part is about $90 US, and about 2-3 hrs labor.
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Last edited by subymtnguy; 11-25-2002 at 06:18 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2002, 07:09 AM
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Pete,

I had the same problem. It was only a clogged cooler or filter. I put on a new filter and bypassed the stock cooler with a B&M cooler and the binding has been gone for over a year. Total cost less than $75.00

Doug
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2002, 09:25 AM
Boone
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Hmm... just remember that the Aussie (JDM) AWD is very different than the US.
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2002, 12:58 PM
amuse
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Thanks!

Thanks guys.. I feel a glimmer of hope - I'll let you know what prices they quote today...

Interesting about the cooler being a possible cause, though I'm not sure how this works?

Also, since they replaced the fluid yesterday - shouldn't they have replaced the filter at the same time? (Unless I'm missing something - remember I know very little about cars

Cheers,
Pete.
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2002, 03:08 PM
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Re: Thanks!

Quote:
Originally posted by amuse
Thanks guys.. I feel a glimmer of hope - I'll let you know what prices they quote today...

Interesting about the cooler being a possible cause, though I'm not sure how this works?

Also, since they replaced the fluid yesterday - shouldn't they have replaced the filter at the same time? (Unless I'm missing something - remember I know very little about cars

Cheers,
Pete.
(On American cars) Excessive fluid pressure in the cooling circuit can cause the Duty Solenoid "C" to leak pressure to the AWD system engaging it unnecessarily.

Most tranny shops won't change the campaign filter (American models and others?) located under the battery on the left frame rail unless you ask them to.

Doug
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Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip
1992 LS Touring (6/91)
Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

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  #9  
Old 11-25-2002, 06:20 PM
amuse
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an update:

... ok I just spoke to my friendly Subaru dealer/service center again.

Here's the deal - they quote just one part called the "Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly" (part # SU31942AA051 - note the last two digits are different?). This part consists of both the Duty Solenoid, the Valve, the Clutch plate and various gaskets apparently. None of it means much to me unfortunately...

The price is AUD$190.25 plus 2-3hrs labour (approx. AUD$150) - so that's about US$200 all up. Not too bad i guess...

I asked about the 'Campaign filter' which must be US terminology cause they never heard of it, so I just said it was the transmission filter (hope that's correct) They'll get back to me on that - I figure I may aswell replace this filter if they're opening her up anyway.

Finally, I asked them to quote on a third party transmission cooler fully installed (B&M are good I gather ?). I must admit that I thought this AWD Binding problem was not a transmission heating problem, but I suppose it all helps??? Interestingly when I asked about a cooler the first thing the rep said to me was "Are you planning to tow?" I mentioned the known tranny problems - but I think they're not too impressed with my constant references to info I've found online (especially here!)

Cheers,
Pete.
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2002, 06:57 PM
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Re: an update:

Quote:
Originally posted by amuse
[BI mentioned the known tranny problems - but I think they're not too impressed with my constant references to info I've found online (especially here!)

Cheers,
Pete. [/B]
I find that a lot. Some personalities have trouble admitting that some people have more information than they do. They feel it is a character assassination.

I'm one of them! I get real nervous when clients start telling me stuff about a product that I have never heard of.

Good Luck.

Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap
Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip
1992 LS Touring (6/91)
Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

1969 Mustang GT Convertible
1970 Mustang Convertible
2000 Ford Excursion
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  #11  
Old 11-25-2002, 08:37 PM
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Hi Pete

Sorry to hear what is happening to your car Mine is going in on Thursday for a transmission cooler and to have the Outback filter kit fitted - I will dig up the part number for you

James
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  #12  
Old 11-25-2002, 08:52 PM
amuse
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Thanks

Hi James,

Thanks - but I don't think my situation is all that bad... I'll know for sure soon, but $350 AUD is not the end of the world

What's the Outback filter? Is this an external transmission filter to replace the external canister filter under the battery?

Also, would you know if it's a good/bad idea to put the fuse in to lock the AWD at 50/50 until I get this valve assembly transfer clutch part installed?

Ah - so many questions.... I think I'm picking some things up slowly though

Cheers,
Pete.
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2002, 11:54 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by amuse
Hi James,

Thanks - but I don't think my situation is all that bad... I'll know for sure soon, but $350 AUD is not the end of the world

What's the Outback filter? Is this an external transmission filter to replace the external canister filter under the battery?

Also, would you know if it's a good/bad idea to put the fuse in to lock the AWD at 50/50 until I get this valve assembly transfer clutch part installed?

Ah - so many questions.... I think I'm picking some things up slowly though

Cheers,
Pete.
Hi Pete, I read your post this morning, though before I could get back OzEmail crashed.

Sounds like either the C solenoid or the transfer valve sticking.
The price that they quoted seems ok.

What you could try is to idle the motor in D with the hand brake on, Get someone to sit in the drivers seat in case. Plug the fuse in for a sec then out for a sec do it 10 times or so. You may feel the car bump as you do it.

What this does is to apply either full voltage or no voltage to the C solenoid, If it is working you will feel the bumps, this leaves the transfer valve which could be stuck in the applied position. Plugging the fuse in and out will move the valve to it's full movement. This may free up the valve, which does not get much action driving around the Gold Coast.

All the best .
Harvey.

Ps. don't drive with the fuse in.
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Last edited by oab_au; 11-25-2002 at 11:59 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-26-2002, 12:37 AM
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Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by amuse
Hi James,

Thanks - but I don't think my situation is all that bad... I'll know for sure soon, but $350 AUD is not the end of the world

What's the Outback filter? Is this an external transmission filter to replace the external canister filter under the battery?

Also, would you know if it's a good/bad idea to put the fuse in to lock the AWD at 50/50 until I get this valve assembly transfer clutch part installed?

Ah - so many questions.... I think I'm picking some things up slowly though

Cheers,
Pete.
Its great to see all the advice on here...no wonder this is set as my homepage!!

As Harvey said, I would leave the fuse out if driving around. Freestyler (4ws guy) had, from the sounds of it, a similar problem - he used the tech manuals to sort it out and was a duty solenoid problem - he browses here so may be able to assist.

Blake (Mogadon) put me onto the Outback filter kit...it is literally an auxillary kit ($45AU - including hoses, mounting brackets...a bargain!) that can be jerry-rigged to slot into the coolant route....I believe that is slots in before the coolant enters the transmission cooler (or auxillary cooler)...mine will be, subject to what the transmission guy says:

from tranny - auxillary filter - auxillary cooler - standard cooler - standard filter - back to tranny

Is this correct???

Thanks

James
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  #15  
Old 11-26-2002, 02:06 PM
amuse
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Indeed!

... thanks some more guys!

I'll try the fuse as suggested, and I'll also ask about the outback filter

Out of curiousity - what is the net effect of driving with the fuse in place? I haven't done this - but almost did, because I told the service centre about the fuse and they said to try it - but they were convinced it would put the car in FWD (as per US SVX and and all Aussie Liberty's (Legacy's)) - they finally believed me when I showed them the fuse box cover marking "(DIFF LOCK)" as opposed to "FWD".... phew - but then they still said to try it (i.e. driving with the fuse in) - so anyway I'm curious - what damage could this do?

Would I be correct in assuming iot would be like driving with shudder that's already happening at times, the whole time?

Cheers,
Pete.
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