EG33 engine build with pics

bazza · #1 07-28-2012, 06:02 PM

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bazza · #2 07-28-2012, 06:03 PM

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SVXRide · #3 07-29-2012, 08:08 PM

Bazza,

How did you check out the crank before installing it? Cracks? Size of mains? In/Out of round of mains?

Thanks.

Bill

bazza · #4 07-29-2012, 10:11 PM

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torxxx · #5 07-29-2012, 11:12 PM

looks interesting. I've thought about doing that with my EG33. 197k miles on it, I'd like to see it run for another 100k..

How much $ you got into that shortblock? Just a rough estimate works, I just want to know what I could be getting myself into.

bazza · #6 07-30-2012, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by torxxx

looks interesting. I've thought about doing that with my EG33. 197k miles on it, I'd like to see it run for another 100k..

How much $ you got into that shortblock? Just a rough estimate works, I just want to know what I could be getting myself into.

Rods, bearings and head gaskets are probably around $1K thus far.

bazza · #7 08-13-2012, 05:42 AM

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'E' · #8 08-13-2012, 08:00 AM

nooooice bazza

SVXRide · #9 08-13-2012, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bazza

Got a bit distracted over the last week hehehe

Bit more build progress over the weekend. Couple of pics of the new headers and the baffled sump setup that I plan to test before the dry sump goes in - the pickup also extended by a coupe of inches and oil temp sensor installed into sump.

Bazza

Looks great! What size pipe are you using for the headers? SS?

Any need to add a diagonal brace to the extended pickup?

Bill

bazza · #10 08-14-2012, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Bazza

Looks great! What size pipe are you using for the headers? SS?

Any need to add a diagonal brace to the extended pickup?

Bill

2.25" coming off each cast header then merging down a 3" collector. Then tapers down again at the turbo entry via 2.5" then 2.25" (in about 1" distance) for the Garret T3 flange.

Using mild steel because it's cheaper haha. Stainless is weaker at high temperatures and would prolly crack (like last time) so prolly a good thing.

I don't think a brace is required - the stock pickup is very strong and TIG welding tends to make nice strong welds so should be fine.

icingdeath88 · #11 08-14-2012, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bazza

2.25" coming off each cast header then merging down a 3" collector. Then tapers down again at the turbo entry via 2.5" then 2.25" (in about 1" distance) for the Garret T3 flange.

Using mild steel because it's cheaper haha. Stainless is weaker at high temperatures and would prolly crack (like last time) so prolly a good thing.

I don't think a brace is required - the stock pickup is very strong and TIG welding tends to make nice strong welds so should be fine.

Any other changes needed to make the extended oil pickup work? If not then I'll probably do that as well.

Noticed you flipped the headers forward, you just swap them side to side and they bolt right on, right? That's how they look to me, just want to confirm.

SVXRide · #12 08-14-2012, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bazza

2.25" coming off each cast header then merging down a 3" collector. Then tapers down again at the turbo entry via 2.5" then 2.25" (in about 1" distance) for the Garret T3 flange.

Using mild steel because it's cheaper haha. Stainless is weaker at high temperatures and would prolly crack (like last time) so prolly a good thing.

I don't think a brace is required - the stock pickup is very strong and TIG welding tends to make nice strong welds so should be fine.

Bazza,

Thanks for the feedback! I only asked about the pickup because I've seen folks do that on the STI 4 cylinders when they've extended the pickup.

Good point on the mild steel!

Bill

neverLift · #13 08-14-2012, 10:41 AM

You mentioned moving the engine down and back, what all was required to accomplish this? Any photos? I assume different engine/tranny mounts, shorter driveshaft as well?

cheers
-Evan

dynomatt · #14 08-14-2012, 04:52 PM

Evan, it's mounted in a GC8 in case you weren't aware.

Matt

neverLift · #15 08-14-2012, 05:05 PM

Yes, it looks as though I may have misinterpreted his statement. Bazza, do you mean "downwards and rearwards" relative to the EG33 position in the SVX?

I am also putting a EG33 in an older Impreza, so if he had changed the positioning when he installed it in the Impreza chassis, I was curious how he accomplished it. I have thought about doing it, but I always get stuck on the angle of the front axles becomes very steep and presents a potential problem for the CV joints. Possible, but very expensive, more than just fabricating new engine mounts.

cheers
-Evan