MAF - just a heads up :)

Devilman · #1 11-19-2008, 02:34 PM

Hey guys

I had posted a little while back about problems with my MAF , car was quitting at lights and off the line and on coast-to-stop,and was in the hunt for a salvaged one from the many part-outs on the network...and then of course going to ebay as well. After missing out on a few on ebay, I decided to remove the cover from the connection area on the unti, revealing the copper area and the PCB/electronics (using the local hot-to docs for guidance). I decided to go ahead with the last resort recommendation and resolder the connections in this area. BAM! no more stalls or cut outs.( I clean the MAF when i replace the air filter as well). I have a feeling that on most of the units, especially when they are affecting the car the way mine did, thinking it was fubar, this effort should be attempted before goin 50-250 on a new/used MAF unit.

Just thought i would pass along the success of the resolder connections thingy in the how-to's if nobody has tried it.

Thanks for all of your guys help and info bits over the last year or so, very very helpful and appreciated network.

-Matt

Francis · #2 11-19-2008, 02:35 PM

niceee !! , good to know that how-to realllly works

hope you fixed it for another couple years

msvx95 · #3 11-21-2008, 08:20 AM

I'm curious to know if your connections were actually separated? I had a bad MAF and all of the connections were still soldered. I had to get a used one.
I even cleaned the non-working one at the time and it didn't help.

want-a-fast-svx · #4 11-21-2008, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msvx95

I'm curious to know if your connections were actually separated? I had a bad MAF and all of the connections were still soldered. I had to get a used one.
I even cleaned the non-working one at the time and it didn't help.

+1 on this as i just recently took apart my spare maf and no connections were broken or damaged at all?

Devilman · #5 11-24-2008, 11:53 AM

late response, just got back in! lol

from base inspection, no connections were broken. But, given the nature of solder, after 15+ years with florida weather etc etc... after exciting the bonds of the metals, i feel that the connections are stock solid again. I am talking about night and day performance. It was cutting out every time i drove it. changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF countless times. And during that time, tried to get a replacement one from various sources, to no avail. So i decided on the resoldering. Its pretty much a "what the hell" last resort why not thing. and i couldnt be happier. make sure you dont over heat the connections while you are doing this, as it would be counter productive to the connection

I used one of those cold heat solder units, kinda vulcan goofy in operation, but it got the job done.

if it gives out and i go mental on the side of the road, i will let you all know lol

kwren · #6 11-25-2008, 12:54 AM

did you also remove the copper plate as well and re-solder in that section?

Thanks, Keith

gbm4th · #7 11-26-2008, 03:53 PM

My 97 LSI (115,000 miles) has similar problems. After 20 minutes of driving, it will stall unless I keep the RPM's above 2500. After 10 minutes of this, it purrs like a baby. The check engine light continually comes on after being cleared. Replaced the knock sensors and used the MAF from my spare 92 SVX (145,000 miles). With the 92 MAF in place, the engine does not stall at speed, but after the engine warms up it will not idle. Put the 97 MAF back on and it stalls again at speed, but idles fine. I will clean and resolder the 97 MAF.

Does anyone know where the Idle Air Control valve is located/what it looks like? That may be part of the idle problem.

Are the 92 & 97 MAF different, is that why my car won't idle?

Thanks for everyone's help on this site, it's great!

George