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  #1  
Old 10-13-2007, 05:03 PM
Evil One Evil One is offline
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SVX's first autoX

Took her to the autoX in plainfield Ct today.
My first time turning a tire in anger in it... and only my 4th autoX event.
1st thing... sumitumo all seasons are terrible for autoX.
2nd thing... This is the first AWD car I have pushed on the track... my technique needs work.

Over all... I was very pleased with how the car and I did.
Had people stopping by all day to take a peek at it and ask how it was doing.

I need to see if there is any way to manually put the transaxle into a mode with more rear bias... towards the end of the runs the front tires were getting slippery and it was pushing BAD.


Jim
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2007, 05:17 PM
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On the stock automatic trans, the trans picks the split not you That said, many here do autoX the automatic (myself, Bill, Harry, etc). With the sheer mass of the EG33 cantilevered over the front axles, understeer will be your constant companion. That said, you can do things to alleviate it to an extent. Tire pressure, alignment, not overdriving the car (this is HUUUGGGEE-many of my fastest runs are when I attack the course as if I have no brakes-makes you slow down for elements and rely on carrying speed). Overdriving causes stupid amounts of understeer, which quickly overheats front tires. Fromt there, suspension mods (spring and struts, anti-sway bars, better tires, etc) will all help reduce understeer but I doubt on this car it will ever be eliminated.

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  #3  
Old 10-13-2007, 05:28 PM
Evil One Evil One is offline
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The trans is a 97 Legacy OB unit... but I assume it still has the same issue of selecting the split.
I learned rapidly today about overheating the fronts.
AutoX will be an occasional bit of weekend fun... not a dedicated past time, but I still will be making changes to improve its performance there.
todays course put a lot of strain on the right front.

One thing I did notice tho... she turned in a lot better on the brakes usually. I could occasionally get it to rotate pretty well. Made me smile
At least lack of pewer didnt seem to be a problem


Jim
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2007, 06:01 PM
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what air pressure did you run, front - back?
what camber are you running, front - back?
-Bill
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  #5  
Old 10-13-2007, 06:09 PM
Evil One Evil One is offline
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Camber settings were as I bought it. I am assuming stock settings.
I ran 32 psi front 28 psi rear.


Jim
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2007, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOMOGO View Post
Camber settings were as I bought it. I am assuming stock settings.
I ran 32 psi front 28 psi rear.


Jim
You'll want to bump the fronts up to at least 40psi and look into getting the car aligned so you have -1.0 degrees of camber for each front tire. You can get as much as -1.5 in the front if you're willing to give up some tire wear in daily driving. The back will need aftermarket camber bolts in order to get any camber adjustment (stock bolts don't allow for any adjustment). You'll also want to replace the stock front and rear swaybar bushings with urethane pieces. The front stock bushings are next to worthless - basically marshmellow consistency.
-Bill
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'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
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'92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place)
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2007, 11:39 AM
Evil One Evil One is offline
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Making a "To Do" list for the winter.
Many thanks to all.


Jim
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  #8  
Old 10-14-2007, 03:51 PM
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If you want even more front negative camber and your class allows it, I have a set of camber bolts that I didn't use if you are interested. They allow for even more camber adjustment. Let me know.

Todd
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  #9  
Old 10-14-2007, 04:07 PM
Evil One Evil One is offline
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Well, I have the 4.44 trans and an open element filter... soon to have a new exhaust. I am also soon to order the brake set from OT.
With 17s and a few suspension mods I am thinking I "may" be in GSP.
I am new to autoX so not real sure where that would put me.
So I may look into those camber bolts from you in a bit.


Jim
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  #10  
Old 10-14-2007, 04:16 PM
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Well, the trans puts you out of stock, STX, and *maybe* SP where I believe the SVX is in ESP. I'm not sure. I do know today that well-driven ESP Mustangs were beating me in my Legacy by 4-5 seconds on a 30-40 second course

Let me know on the bolts.

Todd
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  #11  
Old 10-14-2007, 05:41 PM
porschekiller porschekiller is offline
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Unhappy overcompensation

40 psi? how come no one realizes the fronts are too small? how come there is no mention of toe adjustment with camber? -1.5 degrees. you might as well buy v710s your tire wear will be so fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
You'll want to bump the fronts up to at least 40psi and look into getting the car aligned so you have -1.0 degrees of camber for each front tire. You can get as much as -1.5 in the front if you're willing to give up some tire wear in daily driving. The back will need aftermarket camber bolts in order to get any camber adjustment (stock bolts don't allow for any adjustment). You'll also want to replace the stock front and rear swaybar bushings with urethane pieces. The front stock bushings are next to worthless - basically marshmellow consistency.
-Bill
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2007, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschekiller View Post
40 psi? how come no one realizes the fronts are too small? how come there is no mention of toe adjustment with camber? -1.5 degrees. you might as well buy v710s your tire wear will be so fast.
Have you ever autoX'ed an SVX? This car has serious understeer in its stock configuration. Bumping up the front tire pressure does help to reduce it a bit (granted, not as much as a bigger rear bar will). I've been running -1.5 degrees of camber on all four corners for over a year with no significant reduction in wear (okay, so the car doesn't get more than 70 miles a week outside of autoXing). Yes, you can play with the rear toe to get the car to turn in faster, but I've found just sticking with 0 toe works fine for my set up (but then again, it isn't anything like stock....). As heavy as the SVX is, I'd honestly stay away from 710s, I've been running Hoosier R's for the last couple of seasons.
-Bill
p.s. I'm a little confused by your statement of "the fronts are too small"...if you mean width, I agree -- I've run 245/45-16 and am now running 275/45-16 (yeah, with some serious body mods). The SVreX II will be running 295/40-17 since it has the Koni/GC set up so I can keep the body work off of the tires. Remember, the AWD requires the same diameter tire on all four corners.
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'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
'92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension
'92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place)
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Last edited by SVXRide; 10-14-2007 at 05:55 PM.
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  #13  
Old 10-14-2007, 05:59 PM
porschekiller porschekiller is offline
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Thumbs up size not pressure

see my posts in mod mania. the ideal set up is 245/45-17 front with 300gt vr4 pressure and 205/55-17 rear with cayman pressure. then play with the alignment once you've fixed the physics. you'll thank me, just let me know how much time you saved.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Have you ever autoX'ed an SVX? This car has serious understeer in its stock configuration. Bumping up the front tire pressure does help to reduce it a bit (granted, not as much as a bigger rear bar will). I've been running -1.5 degrees of camber on all four corners for over a year with no significant reduction in wear (okay, so the car doesn't get more than 70 miles a week outside of autoXing). Yes, you can play with the rear toe to get the car to turn in faster, but I've found just sticking with 0 toe works fine for my set up (but then again, it isn't anything like stock....). As heavy as the SVX is, I'd honestly stay away from 710s, I've been running Hoosier R's for the last couple of seasons.
-Bill
p.s. I'm a little confused by your statement of "the fronts are too small"...if you mean width, I agree -- I've run 245/45-16 and am now running 275/45-16 (yeah, with some serious body mods). The SVreX II will be running 295/40-17 since it has the Koni/GC set up so I can keep the body work off of the tires. Remember, the AWD requires the same diameter tire on all four corners.
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  #14  
Old 10-14-2007, 06:09 PM
porschekiller porschekiller is offline
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Lightbulb uscc pdx tuning wrx 315/35-17x11 (4)

i dont know how much horspower you have, but you would only need a 275/45-16 for close to 600bhp. if cost is no object then 245/40-19 front with 225/45-19 rear for up to 500bhp is perfect for the 2100lbs over the nose, the same as a 612 scaglietti. height is what you need, not width. dont ruin the giugiaro body.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Have you ever autoX'ed an SVX? This car has serious understeer in its stock configuration. Bumping up the front tire pressure does help to reduce it a bit (granted, not as much as a bigger rear bar will). I've been running -1.5 degrees of camber on all four corners for over a year with no significant reduction in wear (okay, so the car doesn't get more than 70 miles a week outside of autoXing). Yes, you can play with the rear toe to get the car to turn in faster, but I've found just sticking with 0 toe works fine for my set up (but then again, it isn't anything like stock....). As heavy as the SVX is, I'd honestly stay away from 710s, I've been running Hoosier R's for the last couple of seasons.
-Bill
p.s. I'm a little confused by your statement of "the fronts are too small"...if you mean width, I agree -- I've run 245/45-16 and am now running 275/45-16 (yeah, with some serious body mods). The SVreX II will be running 295/40-17 since it has the Koni/GC set up so I can keep the body work off of the tires. Remember, the AWD requires the same diameter tire on all four corners.
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2007, 06:23 PM
Evil One Evil One is offline
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Interesting... most people I have observed at the various autoX I have attended across the country... run shorter and wider.


Jim
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