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#1
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Crankshaft pully
Symptoms: squealing belt, then burning rubber smell, then alternator belt fell off resulting in no power steering.
Dealer says it's my crankshft pully, $230 just for the part! Is it easy replace this thing myself? |
#2
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If you are somewhat mechanically inclined or have patience and a scan of the shop manual its no problem at all. You will have to pull the belt off which means compressing the timing belt tensioner and then setting the timing marks and pulling the pin but other than that its about an 10 min. job....
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#3
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Re: Crankshaft pully
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underdrive crank pulley in place of stock. It adds some gains in hp and torque on top of it all. We have them on special if you, if you get a chance check out our store link below and email me for pricing. Theres lots of good info here if you do a search for installation, Want A Fast input is pretty direct and helpful.
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My mom will forever live in me and never be forgotten, one day Ill see her again CLICK the LINK below to Visit the SVX Store: http://www.planetsvx.com http://www.motorsportwarehouse.com/svx/sig2.jpg Cars in the garage: 92 Toyota Soarer Single Turbo JDM RHD 70 Boss 302 Mustang 39k original miles 97 SVX Lsi 92 Liquid Silver Murano-ized (1st of its kind) 71 Cougar Xr7 Conv 351c 4v 4spd 69 SS Camaro 350 71 Nissan RHD Fairlady Z 70 Stang Fastback 70 Amc AMX 390 71 240z 89 Conquest TSi w/ 5.0 v8 swap 84 Mustang GT Turbo conv "good, if it bleeds, we can kill it ....." |
#4
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i agree with dayle-
an aftermarket underdrive pulley will cost you less, and since it's made from one piece of aluminum, it won't separate like your stock one did. the only issue is that you'll need to run different length alternator and a/c belts than OEM calls for, but dayle can hook you up with the proper belts as well. as for it being a do-it-yourself job, it absolutely is.. there's a few methods of holding the crank pulley still while you reef on the nut (i think it's a 22mm) holding it to the engine. since the pulley is separated, it'll prove fruitless to use a strap wrench to hold it still (the inside will spin freely and the outside will stay still).. some people will advocate bracing a breaker bar against the engine and keying the starter to break the bolt loose, but i think it's sketchy as hell.. ask around, someone will be able to give you a pretty thorough step-by-step -adam |
#5
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Re: Re: Crankshaft pully
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phil
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~Phil Teal 1992 Subaru SVX Turbo - Sold in May 2011 to peace-frog. |
#6
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Thanks!
Thanks for all your replies. Because of time constraints I've decided to have the dealer do the work. (Hopefully it won't break my bank too bad) They're supposed to give me a final estimate Monday sometime. Can this breaking of the crankshfat pully cause any other damage? (ie timing belt, etc)
Last edited by imjeremy77; 09-06-2003 at 05:39 PM. |
#7
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well, if the crank pulley separated violently (read: exploded) it would've gone bouncing around the engine bay.. probably the most damage it could easily do is to wear a circular impression of itself onto your timing belt cover. it might have dug deep enough to necessitate a new cover, but probably not..
-adam |
#8
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Ouch! $230 just for the part + what ever the dealer is going to gouge you for labor. (thank full I can work on my own car). I think the under drives go for like $100 to $150? and it really is easy to do it yourself.
BTW. Want a fast, what are you talking about?, you don't have to touch the timming belt to swap a crank pully.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs. 91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch. 78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered) 90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car) To many cars to spend time on teh web! |
#9
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So I posted like 2 weeks ago about belt problems, I just now got a chance to look at them as Ive been driving my Celica. I tried loosening the belt tensioner (down and to the passanger side of the alternator) and it worked fine, but once I actually got the belt on and tried to re-tighten the tensioner it snapped... so that really sucks, does anyone know of anything that I can do? I dont really know how to get the broken portion of it out. Once I get it out and replace the bolt Im sure that the car will be fine (I hope, with force (pulling hard on the belt) the cam pulley moves almost 1/4 inch). Does anyone have experence/know what to do with this?
Thanks in Advance. |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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the 'Subafreak Engine / Crankshaft Nut Cracking Method' is not sketchy at at - you only need to 'touch' the key in the ignition for an instant, and it comes loose! thanks again, Mr. Freak!
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Alan 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 1997 SVX LSi (Ebony) SOLD! 2005 Legacy GT (Silver) [Cobb Stg 2+] SOLD! 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 2005 Forester XT Premium (Crystal Gray Metallic) SOLD! 2008 Lancer Evolution X MR (Apex Silver) [Cobb Stg 1+] 2015 Outlander Sport 2.4GT AWD (Mercury Gray) 2013 G37xS (Obsidian Black) |
#12
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Sorry to bump this, but I could really use some input on the broken bolt.
Thanks in Advance Todd Gilbert |
#13
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An EZ-out should work - can you post a picture of the broken bolt?
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
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