Blowing of 20AMP fuse for Cig Ligther

[michael]

Did you check the wiring to the radio? Seeing you have an aftermarket radio there is a good chance the wires are pretty squished back there. It's easy to get a short when you jam that radio in there.

[Wikedjuggalo]

Originally Posted by michael

Did you check the wiring to the radio? Seeing you have an aftermarket radio there is a good chance the wires are pretty squished back there. It's easy to get a short when you jam that radio in there.

Well I thought I did I will pull it again when I have more daylight / free time. First week of school so kinda hectic.

[Wikedjuggalo]

O.k Damn it. I'm very frustrated. I have just checked all the radio wiring and to no avail. I am very very upset as I'm planning a trip mid october and A/c or heater will be nice. Its weird I put a new fuse in and the clock will light up fine for a few seconds 3 or 4 seconds and then Pop. Anyone please help I can't find this and its driving me nuts. Defog is very handy around here in the mornings.

Any advice? I have no problem taking the stereo out and no avial to anything I have tried.

[redlightningsvx]

Are there any cuts or exposed wires coming from the cd player wires? Are the wires to the cig lighter tight? And are the fuses in the fuse box the correct amperage?

[Wikedjuggalo]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

Are there any cuts or exposed wires coming from the cd player wires? Are the wires to the cig lighter tight? And are the fuses in the fuse box the correct amperage?

I checked for cut and/or exposed wires none. Cig lighter was completely removed and I did some testing replacing it and yes. The fuses yes 20AMP for Cig Mirror and 10 AMP Clock and A/C etc.

Its driving me crazy .

[Manarius]

Originally Posted by Wikedjuggalo

I checked for cut and/or exposed wires none. Cig lighter was completely removed and I did some testing replacing it and yes. The fuses yes 20AMP for Cig Mirror and 10 AMP Clock and A/C etc.

Its driving me crazy .

So you checked the cig socket itself with a multimeter for resistance?

[Wikedjuggalo]

Originally Posted by Manarius

So you checked the cig socket itself with a multimeter for resistance?

I did the last time this was doing this but nothing was wrong that I can remember. I haven't lately as I completely removed/unplugged it. It solved the problem for about a day if I recall and issue arose again. I will test it tomorrow when it is light. I did check those cables for anything. This is driving me crazy . I don't know what is causing this.

[dannmarr]

Here is some info that might help, good luck.

How to find the problem area - without wasting fuses.

First off, it's no use replacing fuses because they'll keep on blowing. Instead, make yourself a test light consisting of about fifteen feet of line cord (lamp cord). Enough to walk around the car with it. Put alligator clips on one end, and a stop/tail lamp on the other. Wire both filaments together to increase the current drain.

Clip the test lamp across the offending circuit (with the fuse removed).
Assuming that the tail/parking light circuit is the problem, turn on the parking lights. If the short is still there, the test light will glow brightly. Ohm's Law states that the sum of the voltage drops (R1, R2, etc.) must equal the supply voltage. Therefore, for all practical purposes, the test light will have 12 V across it under short circuit conditions.

Now go around the car and jiggle the wiring around while watching the test light. Pay particular attention to wiring connectors, light fittings, behind the dash connections, and places where wiring goes through sheet metal.
When you get to the intermittent, the test light will dim, indicating that R2 has become unshorted, and is doing its share of dropping the supply voltage.

Once you've located the physical area of the short, it's usually obvious where and what the problem is ( a loose wire from the instrument panel lights touching the sheet in my metal case). Or maybe a wire has come adrift in one of the tail lights. This method is completely safe, provided that you have insulated the test light properly.
*It can be used on all fused circuits. However, when checking head light circuit shorts, the test light will not dim as much when the short is located, because of the lower resistance of these units (Ohm's Law once again).

Other Uses
Checking for 12V power. Clip one end to chassis and touch the other end to the point where the power is supposed to be.
Checking Fuses. Turn the circuit on, with one clip grounded to the chassis, the test light should light when the other clip is touched to either end of the fuse holder ( with the fuse in place of course).
Static Ignition Timing. Clip one end to the chassis and the other to the wire going to the distributor (not for electronic ignition). Turn on the ignition. Push the car forward while in 4th gear. Bulb should light when the pointer on the front pulley indicates "F".
CAUTION: Remove the high voltage lead from the coil or distributor cap before doing this. Note: this is not the best use of the light because the wattage is higher than is should be for this purpose - But it works.
Trouble light. Need to change a wheel at midnight? Clip one side to the chassis and the other to a convenient 12V source and you're in business. Might keep you from getting run into as well?

[Wikedjuggalo]

Thanks for the advice I will do that tomorrow I have some lamps. Speaking of which Stop Lamp keeps lighting up.

[Wikedjuggalo]

Figured I'd go ahead and post what OT found.

The short was coming from the sun visor's vanity lights. The wire was shorting in the and if left untreated could have caught fire eventually (Might post pic of wire). I would have never though to look there when this fuse was blowing. Thanks again tom!