Making My Own Clear Headlights from Lexan

[94SubieSVX]

I just got done making my "picture frame" to hold the lexan so I can stretch it over the headlight. Just gotta wait til the stove isn't in use


Hopefully this will work

[crazyhorse]

A shop vac should do it, if the mold is just the lens. Or your plaster idea could work if you just make it about 1/2-3/4in thick.

[94SubieSVX]

I was thinking more about the plaster idea, and now it doesn't seem like it would work.


When I would go to push the headlight into it, the edges would most likely hit first, and it would wrinkle up the lexan inside towards the center of the headlight. I wouldn't know while I'm doing itbecause I'd be pushing on it so it would take shape, then it would be all rippled.

[crazyhorse]

Make a positive plaster mold, then use the frame method to pull the lexan over it.

[94SubieSVX]

Originally Posted by crazyhorse

Make a positive plaster mold, then use the frame method to pull the lexan over it.

Would that include cutting the stock lenses off then filling it with plaster?



Also, just got done trying the new frame. It definately works, but I need a good strong clamp to hold the headlight down while I apply pressure. Also I need to stop being so damn impatient when I'm heating the lexan because I keep getting bubbles in it, argg.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

[processengr]

Hi,
If you have a toaster oven you can trash, cut away some of each side to accomodate the sheet your working with. I've seen 1st hand "artwork" quality end results in polycarbonate sheet and tubing using a modified toaster oven...

[crazyhorse]

Originally Posted by 94SubieSVX

Would that include cutting the stock lenses off then filling it with plaster?



Also, just got done trying the new frame. It definately works, but I need a good strong clamp to hold the headlight down while I apply pressure. Also I need to stop being so damn impatient when I'm heating the lexan because I keep getting bubbles in it, argg.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

No, put about 2in of plaster in a bucket big enough to hold the light. Coat the light with vaseline as a "release agent" then set it into the wet plaster. Let the plaster set up , then remove the light. Coat the negative mold with vaseline, pour it full of plaster, let it set up, then pull the "positive" mold out. Sand 1/8" off the positive to get the size right, then use it for vacuforming.

[94SubieSVX]

Originally Posted by processengr

Hi,
If you have a toaster oven you can trash, cut away some of each side to accomodate the sheet your working with. I've seen 1st hand "artwork" quality end results in polycarbonate sheet and tubing using a modified toaster oven...

Sounds like it could work, but I don't think the amount of heat put out by a toaster on high, would be more compared to an electric range on high. I would be there even longer heating it up.

Originally Posted by crazyhorse

No, put about 2in of plaster in a bucket big enough to hold the light. Coat the light with vaseline as a "release agent" then set it into the wet plaster. Let the plaster set up , then remove the light. Coat the negative mold with vaseline, pour it full of plaster, let it set up, then pull the "positive" mold out. Sand 1/8" off the positive to get the size right, then use it for vacuforming.

Hmm, maybe I won't take back that plaster just yet then

[SilverSpear]

1- Plaster won't work. Try it and you will see why.
2- You are getting bubbles because you are OVER-heating the process (I think). I recommend you try to experiment on a sample piece first, at what heat degree Lexan would begin to soften. And try to find the NON-Bubbling heat level for you to pull it successfully

Hope it works

[superru]

yes the heat is critical.. not "high" not broil the intense heat from the element will bubble it. heating the oven up and then putting the peice in, without the intense direct heat from the element you should be ok.

[SubaSteevo]

Originally Posted by 94SubieSVX

Sounds like it could work, but I don't think the amount of heat put out by a toaster on high, would be more compared to an electric range on high. I would be there even longer heating it up.

My toaster oven goes up to ~450 degrees.

Here's some info I found on people making windscreens for their bikes, seems that you only need need to get the lexan up to about 200 degrees or so.

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by superru

yes the heat is critical.. not "high" not broil the intense heat from the element will bubble it. heating the oven up and then putting the peice in, without the intense direct heat from the element you should be ok.

I say the opposite. Put the piece in then heat up the oven little by little until noticing the shape forming up

[It's Just Eric]

yes, Ive been reading up on this stuff...It's best to let it heat SLOWLY to the 200 somethin degrees

You'll want to make a home made style vacume table...Dont worry, it's EASY. Get a piece of peg board, and a little ply wood. You just gotta make a shallow box, with the peg board on top. you'll need a pvc pire fitting at the side to attach a shop vac hose. becaue the headlight housing is cumbersome, you MIGHT want to cut the lense part your replacing OFF, and vacu-form just that part (Or, go with the previously mentioned mold idea)

[superru]

perfect DIY!! i just couldn't get the idea out of my head on to the computer! stuck in neutral>? yep that'll work, the upper frame has to seal over the entire lower frame, or it won't suck.. you can do it 94subie!!

[94SubieSVX]

Just made an almost perfect lens. The shape and everything is about 95% perfect, but there's a lot of heat bubbles because I used an already used piece. Just did that to save lexan. Anyway here's some pics.











It took me about 5 minutes with the burner on high, holding it about 6inches away from it, until it got soft enough to stretch.

Tomorrow I'll make another piece. This time hopefully I won't make any heat bubbles. I just gotta take my time.