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#1
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Removing O2 sensors
Ok, got the car jacked, crawled under, sprayed some WD40, but man I can't get the O2 sensors loose. I have a 22mm crow's foot but I'm kinda having a hard time anyways. Is there a better tool? or better method??
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#2
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You can use an open end wrench or a special socket for O2 sensor removal.
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#3
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Did anyone have a problem wtih the heat shields getting in the way?
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Tim 92 Liquid Silver SVX 5MT 2009 BMW Z4 (Gone) 2012 Camry V6 SE |
#4
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I can fit the crow's foot in there but with hardly any room due to the heat shields...I do not want to remove them.
Is it possible the sensor could break if I hit the old one with a hammer? I could then put a socket on it that way. I could try an open ended wrench...not sure I have the size though. |
#5
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You could break the threads inside if you use a hammer, then you'll have more problems. You could also crack the exhaust pipe. Check out; http://svx-iw.com/svxiw/article/?category=exhaust
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#6
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Yeah I see what you are saying....that's the last thing I want to do is strip threads or break the pipe.
Well I'll give it another go tonight....maybe 2nd time is a charm. |
#7
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Use a better penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Soak it down and let it sit for a couple of hours, preferably overnight.
__________________
. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#8
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I used to have that stuff...can't find it though...although my father should have a ton of it. That's some good stuff.....
I may try heating the area too if I need to. |
#9
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Don't waste your time with WD-40. PB Blaster is Da Bomb!!!
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#10
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After a good soaking with any kind of penetrating oil, wipe off excess, run eng to full operating temp, try again. Might help to give it a pull in the tightening direction then try loosening.
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Dave W. ______________________________ 1996 Redd |
#11
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if u r replacing the sensors anyway.........why not just cut them off flush and drill a new hole in the pipe and then weld on the appropriate size nut to take the sensor?
forgive my ignorance....i'm new!! but i've seen that done all the time...usually cheaper/easier than messing with the original sensor.....
__________________
i'm too svxy for my car rob 92 ebony 4.44's rock !! |
#12
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I agree with using a good lubricant and then run the engine to operating temp, Then try getting them loose. If that doesn't work, See if you can rent an O2 socket from autozone or advance. Good luck and see you saturday.
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#13
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Hey after borrowing a 7/8" open end wrench from work, I got back home and was able to free up the old ones....The WD-40 did work as I sprayed them down two days ago.
The problem I had was trying to get the friggin connection loose where they plug in...I strained my lower back to pry apart the passenger side connection...and damn that driver's side one....Too difficult to get to so I was laying under the car and I snipped the wires from the end of the sensor by the exhaust, then I grabbed them with one hand while I stuck a screwdriver onto the electrical prong....and after a bunch of swearing, I tugged it loose!! So now I tightened down the new sensors and plugged them in. Questions: All that's left is to reset the code...but I have a question first. I never disconnected the battery to do this job. Is it necessary?? And when I reset the code, should I start the car and run it first? or Reset the code, then start the car? Jason, I'm sorry but I'll be in Indiana counting inventory all weekend Fri-Sun...for our companies dist. warehouse. It would have been cool to be there. After that I'm stopping in Columbus for my gf's birthday on the way home. Hey take plenty of pics please. |
#14
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Did you add ant-sieze to the threads before installation? This helps for future removal.
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