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View Poll Results: what Option(s) will best help me resolve my code 34?
Just replace the hole gizmo, they are too hard to repair. 2 66.67%
Lube it up, its easy to do??? 0 0%
Check it by doing the following: 0 0%
Yes, that's a wire, and it could be loose... 0 0%
No, thats not a wire, you dipstick, its a hose, so stop pulling yours... 0 0%
Rid the vehicle of Evil spirits before completing and service action 1 33.33%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 06-03-2006, 11:12 AM
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CDG CDG is offline
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Code 34, EGR solenoid or circuit? Evil spirit ritual option?

If I get a code 34, which I have had for at least a year now, what it the best plan of action:
1)replace it?
2)Lube it? How?
3)check it? How?
4)is there a wire on it? could that be loose or disconnected?
5) light a bunch of Sage on fire and wave it over the SVX and scare away the evil spirits?

I'd like to try the evilk spirit ritual just for fun, and post it. Anybody have a good ritual they would like to share, if you want to left nameless, PM me, lol.

immortal has a great pic of it here:
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92 Pearlie, sold @ ~209k miles. Now owned by Tim.

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Last edited by immortal_suby; 06-05-2006 at 06:06 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2006, 06:42 PM
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Disconnect the twin connector and check the solenoid for continuity. The resistance between the two terminals should be say around 4 - 10 ohms. Nothing is exactly specified in the manual.

Measure the voltage at the loom connector with the ignition on. One of the terminals should provide 10 volts or more to ground.

You could also remove the solenoid valve and check it on the bench by intermittently applying 12 volts and blowing through the valve, on and off. Not rocket science !
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2006, 07:00 PM
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I looked at that solenoid andI just can't find any wires?
I see the big hose at the bottom, the 1 little hose on the right side, 2 little hoses on the left side not shown above, and thats it.
Where the hell is the connector hiding?
I know when I find it I'll feel stupid, but right now I'm just confused.


BTW, I cleared my codes and they aren't back yet, will check again later, right now I need to find a way to get my Oxides of Nitrogen(NOx) down so I can pass the test.
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92 Pearlie, sold @ ~209k miles. Now owned by Tim.

Current Ride, 1985 Honda Aero 80, stock 3024 klms
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2006, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDG
I looked at that solenoid andI just can't find any wires?
I see the big hose at the bottom, the 1 little hose on the right side, 2 little hoses on the left side not shown above, and thats it.
Where the hell is the connector hiding?
I know when I find it I'll feel stupid, but right now I'm just confused.


BTW, I cleared my codes and they aren't back yet, will check again later, right now I need to find a way to get my Oxides of Nitrogen(NOx) down so I can pass the test.
You are no doubt confusing covered wires with hoses. Follow your nose.
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2006, 07:46 PM
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I can't wait to see a detailed how-to on troubleshooting the EGR It's on my to-do list
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2006, 08:20 PM
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Beav described it quite well already. Just take his instructions, but help me find the wires in the picture?
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92 Pearlie, sold @ ~209k miles. Now owned by Tim.

Current Ride, 1985 Honda Aero 80, stock 3024 klms
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2006, 08:23 PM
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I give up, I don't have a solid code. So it doesn't matter yet.
I think I'll just use this post:http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33419
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Current Ride, 1985 Honda Aero 80, stock 3024 klms
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2006, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDG
Beav described it quite well already. Just take his instructions, but help me find the wires in the picture?
Trev. not Beav.
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  #9  
Old 06-04-2006, 09:14 AM
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This problem has been posted in too many threads - quit!

As I stated in an earlier thread the pic above is mislabeled, the 'EGR solenoid' is actually a transducer/regulator. The pic below is correct. The EGR solenoid is near the RR corner of the intake manifold:



1) Apply vacuum to EGR valve with engine running.
Engine stalls or runs very rough, go to #2.
Engine doesn't stall, go to #3.

2) Apply power and ground to EGR solenoid pins. Remove hose from solenoid nipple that leads to EGR. Start engine and check for vacuum flow-thru.
No vacuum flow-thru, replace solenoid.
Vacuum flows - reattach hose, apply power and ground with engine running:
Doesn't stall, check for vac leaks between solenoid and EGR vac control valve & EGR valve by applying vacuum at each point.
Stalls, check wiring between ECU and EGR solenoid.

3) Check EGR passages for clogging, especially in intake manifold/t-body (wherever the EGR flows to) if passages are clear remove EGR valve and check visually for operation.
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Last edited by Beav; 06-04-2006 at 10:12 AM.
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  #10  
Old 06-05-2006, 06:07 PM
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immortal_suby immortal_suby is offline
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pic updated with correct description. sorry for the confusion
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
This problem has been posted in too many threads - quit!

As I stated in an earlier thread the pic above is mislabeled, the 'EGR solenoid' is actually a transducer/regulator. The pic below is correct. The EGR solenoid is near the RR corner of the intake manifold:



1) Apply vacuum to EGR valve with engine running.
Engine stalls or runs very rough, go to #2.
Engine doesn't stall, go to #3.

2) Apply power and ground to EGR solenoid pins. Remove hose from solenoid nipple that leads to EGR. Start engine and check for vacuum flow-thru.
No vacuum flow-thru, replace solenoid.
Vacuum flows - reattach hose, apply power and ground with engine running:
Doesn't stall, check for vac leaks between solenoid and EGR vac control valve & EGR valve by applying vacuum at each point.
Stalls, check wiring between ECU and EGR solenoid.

3) Check EGR passages for clogging, especially in intake manifold/t-body (wherever the EGR flows to) if passages are clear remove EGR valve and check visually for operation.
OK, I went into the EGR area and found a few hoses not very tight, probably ok, but felt like they should be replaced.

I replaced all the hoses that connect the EGR Valve to the EGR Vacuum Control to the Throttle Body and to the EGR Solenoid Valve, I also replaced the hose to the preasure regulator.

I Also removed the EGR Solenoid Valve and tested it with 12 volts, work great, re-installed it.

So based on the fact that the EGR Solenoid is working I must have either a blocked passage or something wrong with either the EGR Valve or the EGR Vacuum Control. Will perform Test #1 tomorrow, as I ran out of time today.

I will need to finish doing Test#2 to find a faulty part, but I believe I have eliminated a vacuum leak, but will keep looking.

Can some one describe in the photo where the blocked passages can be checked/cleared?
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Current Ride, 1985 Honda Aero 80, stock 3024 klms
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  #12  
Old 06-21-2006, 09:21 PM
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immortal_suby immortal_suby is offline
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Here is a pic of where the EGR connects to the intake (intake removed in the pic)
The pipe circled in the pic was pretty gunked up on mine and the hole in the intake where it connects was al but clogged shut.

I don't know if you'll have enough room to get in there to clean it without removing the intake.

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  #13  
Old 06-21-2006, 10:13 PM
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OK, I have checked the little pipe that Matt shows in his pic above, and its clean enough, I checked the plumbing going into the manifold, and appears to be clear.
Since the car did not stall during the bypass of the Vacuum to the EGR Vacuum control, I fear I still have an issue.

Unless???
Should I have bypassed it directly to the EGR???
OH, F%$*.

Well, I'm taking lots of pictures, thats gotta be worth something.
See Locker for EGR pics.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?CDG|36595
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  #14  
Old 06-22-2006, 12:08 AM
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CDG CDG is offline
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OK.
I have put it all back together:
1) the Solenoid tested OK.
2) the EGR valve tested OK
3) The "bypass the vacuum DIRECTLY to the EGR test" wasn't done right, so it FAILED. Will try the test agin if I get a code 34 again.
4) Checked and cleaned out the passages, they all appeared OK.

5) Taking the car to the AirCare centre again tomorrow. wish me luck.
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92 Pearlie, sold @ ~209k miles. Now owned by Tim.

Current Ride, 1985 Honda Aero 80, stock 3024 klms
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2006, 04:53 PM
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Until you apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve and the engine stalls/dang near stalls there is no reason to return to the test center. It really is that simple. It seems you haven't found any other problems, so....
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