Base Timing

[want-a-fast-svx]

I was wondering how to check the base timing without a select monitor. Someone mentioned it my thread and said to look in the how to but i couldnt find anything that had it in there. If anyone is able to help me out in the that is greatly appreciated. Trying to figure out if the major hesitation im having below 3500-4000rpms is from my severe crank walk messing with timing or if it is actuallyu just off a tooth or something. Or something completely different. I appreciate any and all help in the matter.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by want-a-fast-svx

I was wondering how to check the base timing without a select monitor. Someone mentioned it my thread and said to look in the how to but i couldnt find anything that had it in there. If anyone is able to help me out in the that is greatly appreciated. Trying to figure out if the major hesitation im having below 3500-4000rpms is from my severe crank walk messing with timing or if it is actuallyu just off a tooth or something. Or something completely different. I appreciate any and all help in the matter.

You can check the idle timing, with a timing light connected to the No.1 cylinder. The markes are on the crank pulley. The book quotes the setting at 610 rpm as 20*+/- 10*BTDC. It will vary about a bit as the ECU alters the timing to control the Idle speed.

Harvey.

[want-a-fast-svx]

fantastic appreciate the help ill have to check that out. Do you think that the bypass air control solenoid would cause poor running b4 3500-4000rpms or do you think its from the crank walk issue i have? Or do you think its something entirely different. Thanks again for the ehlep

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by want-a-fast-svx

fantastic appreciate the help ill have to check that out. Do you think that the bypass air control solenoid would cause poor running b4 3500-4000rpms or do you think its from the crank walk issue i have? Or do you think its something entirely different. Thanks again for the ehlep

Can't see the By-pass air control solenoid causing any trouble at thouse rpms. You will have to refresh my memory, is this the one that had the manual box fitted that had a noise when the clutch was pushed? Had excessive crank end float?

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

Thought that was just a wrong clutch disc. Crank walk in an EG33 is pretty uncommon

Tom

[want-a-fast-svx]

Yes that is the correct one you are thinking of. And Tom you are correct it was an incorrect clutch package that was giving the noise when i installed it the first time. Upon further inspection they realized they gave me the wrong clutch and pressure plate. I do however have a sever case of crank walk. I have measured it and also its so sever that you can not only see it but here it in the clutch and pressure plate in the front of the transmission. There is definitely noticeable crankwalk to say the least.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by want-a-fast-svx

Yes that is the correct one you are thinking of. And Tom you are correct it was an incorrect clutch package that was giving the noise when i installed it the first time. Upon further inspection they realized they gave me the wrong clutch and pressure plate. I do however have a sever case of crank walk. I have measured it and also its so sever that you can not only see it but here it in the clutch and pressure plate in the front of the transmission. There is definitely noticeable crankwalk to say the least.

The crank end float will move the reluctor on the front of the crank, back and forwards under the magnetic pick-up. This could reduce the signal from the sensor. But why it would only affect the engine at those rpms??????? It would be more likely to affect it when you push the clutch in.

Harvey.