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#1
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seals & part numbers & ???
I've put off changing my seals for quite some time as the leak looks much worse than it actually is (I'm usually only about 1/2 quart down in 4K mile change intervals). However, my wife is not so forgiving about the stain on the garage floor.
And yes, I've done the search and looked at probably about 30+ threads. So, basically I guess I'm admitting I'm lazy Anybody have a parts sheet or printout of the part numbers needed to change out the front end seals, i.e., cam, crank, T-Belt cover? Many threads talked about the oil pump O-ring as well. Anything else you want to throw in is fine. FYI, my water pump and T-Belt were changed about 20K miles ago (pump let go about half way home from purchasing it), think I may redo the belt, but hate to put out the $$ for another pump. Any comments? Thanks, and BTW, I've never done this on a Subie of any sort, so almost nothing you can offer would be insulting to my meager intelligence on the subject. |
#2
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I have part numbers some where but just go to subaruparts.com and look'm up. It easier.
__________________
May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#3
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thanks for the suggestion, but it isn't the obvious cam & crank seal part numbers so much as me asking for as the other bits and pieces needed once a job like this is started. I'm not sure which O-ring it is that's mentioned in older threads for the oil pump, etc. I'm sure the gasket around the timing cover is oil soaked, I can't tell for sure how many pieces there are from the SubaruParts.com exploded drawing.
Plus I've seen recommendations on just replacing the pump, etc. and since I've never done this, have no idea what I expect to see once inside - better safe than sorry. I have no local Subie dealer so once it comes apart....and this car is what I use to go to work & back, so... |
#4
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Oh Lee I see your point.
When I did my T-belt the first time I had to buy new covers cause mine were warped and rubbed on the crank pulley and the back of right CAM pulley. I also had to replace some of the shoulder bolts cause mine had the wrong ones. I replaced the ever expanding gaskets with new gaskets and this was not a great IDEA because the new ones did not fit right. I endded up uusing RTV to seal the rear covers to the block. When I did the Legacy last year I just cut a piece out of the gasket so it would fit and used that old jelly gasket. The o-ring behind the oil pump only gets replaced if you take off the pump or change the pump. I will only use hardening Permatex for this, similar to what the factory uses. I do not like the way the RTV seals to the block for this application. I would only put in a new oil pump unless someone else screwed up the last oil pump install. If you got 100k on the water pump I would change it. You will need tools to hold the crank pulley and tools to hold the CAM sprockets, torque wrenches, a way to compress the tensioner, hardened allen key to fit in the tensioner hole. I wish you the best for a smooth repair.
__________________
May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#5
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I believe it should be the oil filler neck o-ring. We often change that along with the valve cover gaskets, cam seals, crank seal, also sometimes the lower timinig case seal needs to be replaced. It's on a case by case basis. Check out the thread in the general babble forum about parts discounts.
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