Lan's performance transmission - any feedback?

[TomsSVX]

Gonna stay out of this for the most part. If you want to read a little more on it, check Harvey's comments on Budfreak's site. Without being able to follow test procedures I cannot say 100% he is right but it follows sound logic.

As for level10. Yes they make very nice transmissions and have been doing so for a very long time. If there was any reason in the world I didn't have time to build my own, or keep an auto at all, I would take it to them.

Yourconfused... PM me about the diff, I might be able to help.

Tom

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001

I know Lan was offering a performance 4eat for our svx's a few months back...anyone know of any actual buyers? I searched and found that nexus 7 had purchased one but was having difficulty on the install. I'd like to get some feedback b/c right now I am kinda on the fence about whether to go higher performance auto or take the 6spd plunge. Thanks in advance, chris

Is there any reason not to go with a Level 10 Hydrosystem (Valve Body mod) and 4.44's (or 411's)?

[longassname]

You might want to get feedback from more than 1 person. While most of my customers are not on these forums there are still many satisfied customers in comparison to the couple unsatisfied customers. You don't hear from them as much these days because a few vocal members have basically sucked all the joy out of participating in these forums for everyone else.

I suggest you pm nomad and iceman039. I think you will hear a very different story from them.

I do not offer a warranty because I can't risk being put through the ringer by someone unscrupulous. I have, however, always done my best to make sure things work out well for my customers.

When I build a transmission I do what is called an "air check." For each servo and clutch there is a port where the valve body mounts to the transmission . With the transmission fully assembled except for the valve body compressed air is used to operate each clutch so it is known for a certainty that each clutch is operating propperly and there are no leaks in the fluid paths. In addition if there was a mistake made durring assembly of the rotating assembly it would show in the end play clearance that is exactingly measured. In addition the operation of the pump is checked after mounting. Essentially, everything in the transmisison except bolt ons is known to working.

The valve body is built as a seperate unit that is installed into the transmission. Each valve in the body is cleaned, checked, and installed with lubrication during that process so there is essentially no chance of a stuck valve. It is possible for a new solenoid to be defective. In fact, the main solenoid pack in Normands transmission was defective. It threw a trouble code and I sent him a new one and payed to have it installed. I have no control over a defective part like this but other than a defective part like this there is really not much chance there is anythign wrong with a transmission i send out.

Not just with my transmissions but with any rebuilt transmission the most likely cause of a rebuilt transmission is installer error. This is unfortunately somewhat frequent in the industry and why the few big companies that can afford to offer a waranty only do so if you have it professionally installed. Common mistakes are not flushing the lines and clogging the valve body, reversing the lines, not propperly splining the torque coverter onto the shaft, and braking the pump during converter installation.

Despite the chances being that any problem he was having was the result of installation error, YourConfused was given the option of sending his transmission back to be checked and redone. He chose not to. He made up excuses why he couldn't call me so I could help him more effectively work on things on his end. He said the transmission was shifting fine in order to get me to ship him a new transfer solenoid valve and gasket instead of sending the transmission back.

[vlmaclean]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Gonna stay out of this for the most part. If you want to read a little more on it, check Harvey's comments on Budfreak's site. Without being able to follow test procedures I cannot say 100% he is right but it follows sound logic.

As for level10. Yes they make very nice transmissions and have been doing so for a very long time. If there was any reason in the world I didn't have time to build my own, or keep an auto at all, I would take it to them.

Yourconfused... PM me about the diff, I might be able to help.

Tom

I've heard from racers that level10 is bad and IPT in NJ also is the way to go
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/

[Schralper]

as an somewhat of a subbie newb here's my take on auto trans issues.
becuz i've been thru similar w/ my GM 700R4 trans'.
like a replacement trans every 50K.
didn't matter if i had an ammco or hiperf build it killed the planetary gears. the 4EAT has similar issues.
heavy rigs that are undergeared. kinda like my Burban.
i think the 4.44 swap would help the trans life.
i agree w/ LAN as **** happens due to builder/installer error.
i had a freshly rebuilt GM trans that died in 20 min due to bad pump.
oh joy pulling it just after installing.
i'm not a trans expert, except on replacing them.
but i'd hazard a guess that the planetary in the 4EAT has 4 gears which 700R4's also have.
side loading pressure, doesn't help the planetary any either.
where as my newest 700R4 has a 5 pinion planetary.
20% more surface area and at least that much stronger.
if there were just more aftermarket support for these tranny's!
some of the engine mods i've seen, seem kinda wasted w/o being able to put in a higher stall converter.

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by vlmaclean

I've heard from racers that level10 is bad and IPT in NJ also is the way to go
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/

What racers said Level10 is bad? I noticed you pushing IPT a bit. Have you heard from any Subaru owners that IPT is good to use?

[RSVX]

Originally Posted by vlmaclean

I've heard from racers that level10 is bad and IPT in NJ also is the way to go
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

What racers said Level10 is bad? I noticed you pushing IPT a bit. Have you heard from any Subaru owners that IPT is good to use?

Welcome back Nate, aka Porschekiller... bye Nate.

[sicksubie]

I saw that one from a mile away... As soon as he was pushing ESP and east coast swappers I knew it was him....

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Gonna stay out of this for the most part. If you want to read a little more on it, check Harvey's comments on Budfreak's site. Without being able to follow test procedures I cannot say 100% he is right but it follows sound logic.
Tom

Thanks Tom
The remarks that I made on the “svxworldfourms.com” were to address two of the problems that Your Confused had experienced with your performance transmission. These were;

1. “I have no engine braking when the transmission is placed in third gear on the selector (except for about 1 sec. every 30-40 seconds.)”

I replied,
“I think your problem is related to the line pressure that has been increases when the valve body was modified. This raises problems with the Transfer clutch that can bind due to the higher pressure. It also causes problems with the over-run clutch, because when the box is in D or 3rd position, the over-run clutch is not allowed to operate while the throttle is on or it will cause interlocking. It knows this because it is looking at the line pressure, that it expects to drop to a set level to show that the throttle is closed. This is the same pressure that the modification has raised, so it never gets to the set pressure that tells it that the throttle is closed and its OK to apply it.”

2. “The 1-2 shift is so hard that I have replaced and broken motor and trans mounts. I am now most likely just going to weld mine solid so I don't spend more money in that area of the car. The 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are quick but soft.???”

I replied,
“This problem is also due to the ECU Tune modifications to the valve body. The 1-2 accumulator that allows a delay in the operation of the Brake band has been fitted with two springs. This just removes the smooth application of the band, causing it to bang on, producing the serve shock. These Shift accumulators don't need stronger springs as their pistons are backed up with a hydraulic pressure that is increased with the throttle position.”



I don’t doubt the quality of the mechanical rebuild, quality parts fitted, damaged components replaced. So you only have to follow the book, and do a good job. It’s the mods done to the valve body that lets it down. Mods that increase the flow of oil for lubricating and cooling are desirable, raising the line pressure sounds good but it can upset other operations. When the TCU sends a set duty cycle signal to a solenoid, it is to apply a set pressure to the clutch, if that pressure is higher the clutch will be applied harder, affecting both the C and B solenoids and the Over-run clutch.

The fitting of heaver springs in the 1-2 accumulator is not needed. Springs apply a constant pressure to the piston, so that the same increase in piston resistance is felt regardless of the amount of throttle used, making the light throttle change harder.

An oil pressure that varies with the amount of throttle pressure applied, backs up the spring in this accumulator. As the throttle is increased, so is the accumulator resistance increased. This is a better arrangement, but it has been got at by the TCU, when the change is to take place it reduces this accumulator pressure to soften the change. It does not matter what you do the valve body, this will still happen, it has to be rectified at the TCU, and after all the work the engine will still have its power cut, regardless of the “Lighting fast change”.

As I suggested to Your Confused, ”Replacing the pressure regulator spring and the accumulator springs with standard ones will fix these problems, but without knowing what the next problem is going to be. You may be better off to replace the modified valve body, with a standard valve body.”

So do I recommend this gearbox?
Chris, if the valve body has the regulator and the accumulator springs restored to standard, and my Quick Change controls it, it would be a very impressive performance unit indeed.

Harvey.

[Nomad]

Hi everyone ! I've read a lot from harvey and he seams to know a lot . I bought the performance tranny from LAN with 3.90 diffs . I'm very pleased with it but , while reading the last post from harvey , I've found the symptoms in what he says about the 1st slamming to the 2nd gear but , i just play with my foot to smooth the transition ! lool I had a bad selenoid and LAN shipped me a new one and paid the installation ! It's one of the best guy i've done buisiness with in my 30 years of life . I'll buy from him again ( the engine @ 6500$ is next ! ) Of course , there is always better but , its when we do things that we can mofify them to be better , he do a lot and modify a lot after . LAN , you keep me informed when you finish the TCU and when you do new things !

Normand Beaudry

[longassname]

Thanks Normand,

He is right that I have a heavier spring installed in the 1-2 accumulator and you can soften that shift by putting the factory spring back in. I have them if you want one.

Originally Posted by Nomad

Hi everyone ! I've read a lot from harvey and he seams to know a lot . I bought the performance tranny from LAN with 3.90 diffs . I'm very pleased with it but , while reading the last post from harvey , I've found the symptoms in what he says about the 1st slamming to the 2nd gear but , i just play with my foot to smooth the transition ! lool I had a bad selenoid and LAN shipped me a new one and paid the installation ! It's one of the best guy i've done buisiness with in my 30 years of life . I'll buy from him again ( the engine @ 6500$ is next ! ) Of course , there is always better but , its when we do things that we can mofify them to be better , he do a lot and modify a lot after . LAN , you keep me informed when you finish the TCU and when you do new things !

Normand Beaudry

[Nomad]

No prop ! For the springs , If it doesnt break anything , i dont care !
If it could break something , we should do something about it ! I race it so , i don't want to break things before it needs to ! Ok , i don't race often , once per month maybe ....

[longassname]

The shop you use seems fair enough. I don' think they'd charge you much to swap the 1-2accl spring. You could try the other spring and see which you prefer.

Originally Posted by Nomad

No prop ! For the springs , If it doesnt break anything , i dont care !
If it could break something , we should do something about it ! I race it so , i don't want to break things before it needs to ! Ok , i don't race often , once per month maybe ....

[longassname]

Harvey,

I'm not going to share the particulars of which fluid circuits are modified where so that makes it hard to discuss things with you. Thanks for your confidence in the transmission. As you hear from others who have it I think you will find you can have confidence in the valve body as well.

[Nomad]

I'm keeping those I have right now , i paid attention to it since we discused here and , Its not that hard , its only when you accelerate very very slowly ( witch i never do actually ) that it seams to engage very abruptely . when i drive normaly , theres no such thing , only great fun !