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#16
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I've never heard of a problem using a...
...small dab of dielectric grease on the tip ("boot" end) of the spark plug! If you don't always use this stuff with a Ford electronic ignition system you may well one day find yourself dead-in-the-water.
I've used this on every single sparkplug in every application since the mid-80's. Never have heard any recommendation against its use. Longassname: can you get me a reference for your factory disapproval statement, please? Are we talking about the same stuff? Cheers!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#17
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Re: I've never heard of a problem using a...
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I've always used it on my prior vehicles too......but i've never had a car where the spart plugs are recessed inside of the valve covers so you can't see them during the install and with coils that bolt directly to the spark plug with short boots. Sure it's possible you can be very very careful and not have any dielectric making it's way to the edge of the boot and causing an arcing problem but do you really feel it's necessary? I don't know about your coils but mine show no signs of wanting to corrode. |
#18
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Ok, I unnerstan'!
It was more of an application comment vs. a prohibition one.
I see now that there is a potential problem as far as getting it on properly, and wholeheartedly agree with Longassname that having the grease slopping out of the coil could certainly cause a problem. I use this product sparingly in a little tube and am pretty careful in applying it, so I've never experienced any arcing problem. My boots & coils and the plugs have come off with no problems so far. I think it really also has to do with how hot your engine & transmission gets over the long run. In as mild a climate as Oregon none of my vehicles ever really show any signs of over-heating, but I know that I'm pretty anal about maintenance.
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#19
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Duh?
Dielectric:
Pronunciation: "dI-&-'lek-trik Function: noun Etymology: dia- + electric Date: 1837 : a nonconductor of direct electric current (Merriam-Webster Online) Were you awake when you read the part that said not to use it? It insulates the connection, inhibits oxidation of the connection and allows for easier, tear-free removal of the coil/spark plug boot. BTW, you don't need to buy something that specifically states "dielectric compound". I've been using the same silicone grease that I use on everything else for a number of years now.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#20
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Re: Duh?
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#21
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Bong! I mean, "Boing!"
As, so... Grasshopper!
It does not function to CONDUCT electricity but rather to prevent formation of corrosion that would impede the normal flow from the coil to the plug. What kind of REGULAR silicone grease are you using, BEAV? The $tuff I've been buying come$ in a very $mall tube. Seems to last a long time, though. Kinda' like JB Weld... There must be various grades of silicone lube as I also see high temp products (for disk brake calipers) besides. Always neat to learn something new!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#22
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So far no-one mentioned that the spark plug replacement must be done on a cold engine, according to the manual.
Matt
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Mattski 97 LSi Ebony Pearl 130k Midlife Crisis 93 Legacy Wagon 180k Training Wheels 98 Outback 180k 98 Dodge Durango 120k Ski Bus A multitude of skis to feed my need to go faster, faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. |
#23
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The aluminum is probably a bit softer when at normal operating temperature, but the advice is probably more for safety as you can't really get near the plugs without burning yourself until the engine has cooled down substantially.
KuoH |
#24
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Re: Bong! I mean, "Boing!"
My fav for several years now: http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=20355
I normally get it in the 8oz. brush top bottle. I probably have more call for it than the average Jane or Joe, though. Cold engine plug replacement reccomendations are to protect you from removing the threads from the hole along with the spark plug. Yes, it happens, and no, it isn't an easy repair on the SVX! Quote:
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#25
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Quote:
i just assumed it would have to be cold, that the plugs would come out easier, and you wouldn't get burnt
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SV What? |
#26
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I don't know how common this is. Most people, myself included, are not completely familiar with the nuances of aluminium engines. I think the FSM calls for a dead cold engine, not just one cool enough not to cause burns.
Matt
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Mattski 97 LSi Ebony Pearl 130k Midlife Crisis 93 Legacy Wagon 180k Training Wheels 98 Outback 180k 98 Dodge Durango 120k Ski Bus A multitude of skis to feed my need to go faster, faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. |
#27
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If that were the case, then most dealer shops aren't following the recommendations. How many of you have actually had to leave the car overnight for a simple plug change? It's ovbiously a good idea to have a cold engine, but it won't be the end of the world if not. Unless you happen to have a thread mishap as Beav noted.
KuoH |
#28
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Yeah, it's safe to say that. Right up until it happens to you. It's happened to me once or twice. You don't risk it on plugs that don't have clear access to the holes - just in case it does happen. You don't have to leave it overnight, but I/we do leave the car to cool down for at least a couple hours before changing them. And all this time you thought the mechanics were just goofing off....
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#29
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I also recommend not using anti-seize. Yes, it is a PITA. If your engine is dirty in the area around the plugs, I recommend cleaning before attemping the spark plug change. I think this will lessen the chance of introducing unwanted dirt/grime into the combustion chamber.
After quite a bit of reading, I decided that the Denso Iridium plugs look like the best. I liked them better than the NGK Iridium plugs because the Denso plugs have a U-groove in the tongue and the NGK plugs do not. The U-groove is supposed to improve ignition of the air-fuel mixture if you believe the Denso propaganda.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#30
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