Help!!!??????

Roger8519 · #1 12-09-2002, 03:33 PM

OK heres the deal. Lately I been driving and noticed that when I press the gas just a little it makes a rumbling noise and it shakes. This also happens bad when making a 90 degree turn from a stop and also sometimes when i stop the car. WHATS WRONG??!!!!! and any ideas?

Aredubjay · #2 12-09-2002, 04:05 PM

Hard to say, Roger. Does this seem more like a rumble caused by a mechanical problem (IE: power steering pump -- in which case it would probably be the infamous 0-ring problem), or, does it feel like a sparking problem (in which case it may be one of your coils), or, does it feel like a "binding" problem, in which case, it could be your X-fer clutch.

Like I said, hard to say with such a brief description and not "being there."

Tell us more.

Roger8519 · #3 12-09-2002, 04:27 PM

i dont think its steering because it does it even when i dont move the wheel. It prob is a binding prob, in which case i am going to go shoot myself. But i will drive it more and see if it gets worse or anything. Another thing that I was thinking is that maybe something could be stuck around my axl or soemthing because this started to happen after I was driving in snow and all.

Aredubjay · #4 12-10-2002, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Roger8519
i dont think its steering because it does it even when i dont move the wheel. It prob is a binding prob, in which case i am going to go shoot myself. But i will drive it more and see if it gets worse or anything. Another thing that I was thinking is that maybe something could be stuck around my axl or soemthing because this started to happen after I was driving in snow and all.

Try placing the FWD fuse into its socket and see if it goes away. If it DOES, then it's definitely a transfer problem.

Roger8519 · #5 12-10-2002, 01:05 PM

and how exactly do I do that? Also today I think it could be the steering because i was backing up and was cutting the wheel real hard and it got real bad.

Beav · #6 12-10-2002, 01:09 PM

It could also have a bad CV joint. If you're not sure how to check them stop by most any garage, they'll be more than happy to check them for you.

Aredubjay · #7 12-10-2002, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Roger8519
and how exactly do I do that? Also today I think it could be the steering because i was backing up and was cutting the wheel real hard and it got real bad.

Raise the hood (of if you're English, raise the bonnet). Look at the diagram on the fuse box under the hood. You'll see a space that says "FWD." The slot should be empty. In the back of the fuse box (see the diagram again) there should be a space for a spare 10 amp (I believe) fuse. Remove the fuse from the spare slot and place it in the FWD slot. Seal the fuse box and close the hood.

When you get into your car and start it, there should be an FWD indicator light in your upper left quadrant of your instrument panel. This will indicate that you've installed the fuse properly, and your car will be operating in front-wheel drive. Take your car 'round the block and see if the symptoms disappear. If so, you're having transfer problems.

Roger8519 · #8 12-10-2002, 02:23 PM

ok well a switched it into FWD and it went away. So i guess i have a transfer problem. Can you explain what this means and how much of a cost it is? thanks

wawazat?? · #9 12-10-2002, 02:25 PM

Cost was slightly over $900. Good thing it was under warranty

Todd

Roger8519 · #10 12-10-2002, 02:50 PM

how was it under warranty if you have a 92 and it was last year?

mohrds · #11 12-10-2002, 02:59 PM

I think Todd meant "His" was under warranty.

Don't give up hope for a cheap fix just yet. Binding can also be caused by a clogged filter or cooler.

You can temporarily bypass the campaign filter and cooler by taking a foot or two of hose and connecting the two metal pipes running along the driver's frame rail. That will send all fluid from the tranny back into the tranny without going through the campaign filter or cooler.

Drive it for just a short time (After taking out the FWD fuse) and see if the binding is gone. If it is, you only need a new filter (about $10) and a good aftermarket cooler ($40-$60).

If it is still there then you have transfer problems and are looking to save up your pennies.

Don't forget to return the cooling circuit to its original configuration after the test drive.

Doug

wawazat?? · #12 12-10-2002, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mohrds
I think Todd meant "His" was under warranty.

Doug

No, I've got pictures of the Service Manager of my dealership with a zebra-skinned brief wearing, yellow SVX driving, Kentuckian in a compromising position

.

Sorry for the confusion. My transmission was replaced and before the warranty expired, the transfer clutches were getting noisy and making the car pop-n-jerk when turning. Since I had made them aware of the problem previously, they replaced the parts under the transmission warranty.

Todd

oab_au · #13 12-10-2002, 04:17 PM

The binding that you have experienced, seems to tie in with a theory that I have been thinking of for some time.

When the transfer system is working properly, the TCU applies pressure through the transfer valve, to the transfer clutch when it receives a input of a difference, in front to rear wheel speed.

This happens usually when cornering, when a small pressure is applied. This means that the transfer valve moves a small amount to pass the pressure about 10%.

This is opposed to the effect when front wheel spin happens. In this case a large pressure is applied through the transfer valve to the clutch. This large pressure moves the transfer valve to the full 100% position instead of the normal 10% position, a position that it has not been to for some time.

I believe that the transfer valve is sticking in the applied position, due to the goo that accumulates in the valve body, when it moves to the full position during front wheel spin.

As you say, it happened after a wheel spin run in the snow. When we are driving around streets there are very few wheel spin situations that arise, so the transfer valve doesn't get to work to the full position, till the odd slippery grass patch or the snow comes.

I think the system would benefit from having the AWD exercised from time to time. This can be done on the US version by spinning the front wheels on grass from time to time. On the European version, you can plug the fuse in and out a couple of times to move the valve to full movement.

I would like to hold a postmortem on a valve that has been replaced for this type of trouble, to see if this is the case. Has anybody checked out a failed valve?

It could be just this valve, causing the trouble.

Harvey.

sfsvx · #14 12-10-2002, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wawazat??

No, I've got pictures of the Service Manager of my dealership with a zebra-skinned brief wearing, yellow SVX driving, Kentuckian in a compromising position .

Todd

I believe those two individuals were Ben Dover and C. Howett Fields.

Beav · #15 12-10-2002, 05:41 PM

One thing to remember/consider Harvey: the TCU will throw as much torque to the rear as posible each time the car is accelerated from a standing start, in order to thwart torque steer.