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#16
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Re: A/C Compressor Drag
Tried again on the charge at the collision shop I found.
Tried various pressures starting low as suggested and building to max. of the range (650g). No change at all. blows coolish but not cold. Guess I'll have to live with it as I don't really want to get involved with tearing out the condenser or other components at the moment.
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Peter ART Cryogenic/Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, PWR Radiator, Tranny cooler, Stebro, Earthworm's Poly Differential/front & rear swaybar bushings, Koni Inserts and Mychailo SVX Sport Springs all 4 corners, Indigo Blue paint. Liquid Silver Wheels. |
#17
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Re: A/C Compressor Drag
Ok, sorry to hear that.
I've had success twice with a 500g charge. Does the compressor still cycle with a lowish charge? If I understand correctly it should not do this. Does anyone know if all SVX A/C systems are equal (not counting the juice)? Mine never cycles and this is how it is supposed to operate... the cooling is controlled by the variable displacement feature in the compressor and it should be cut off only as a protection feature for too low or high pressure and if the controller thinks the evaporator is realy freezing. I think a dealer can read the evaporator temperature with the diagnostics kit... maybe the thermocouple is bad? Are you sure your compressor and pressure switch are really OK? If all that checks out next thing I'd do is replace the expansion valve. Sticking should be readily picked up by a professional from the pressures, though. Sorry for not being able to really help. /T |
#18
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Re: A/C Compressor Drag
You're fortunate that the Maritimes don't get too hot and stay that way for extended periods.
Has all your snow melted yet? (My brother is in Bathurst, NB and we bug him all the time about the weather there.) |
#19
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Re: A/C Compressor Drag
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And yes the snow is gone. (Still a bit nippy to swim though.)
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Peter ART Cryogenic/Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, PWR Radiator, Tranny cooler, Stebro, Earthworm's Poly Differential/front & rear swaybar bushings, Koni Inserts and Mychailo SVX Sport Springs all 4 corners, Indigo Blue paint. Liquid Silver Wheels. |
#20
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Re: A/C Compressor Drag
No. It runs normally. No cutting in and out.
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At the collision shop I explained what the previous shop had done, which included adding 200 cc of oil with each of the 3 charges. The tech was shocked and said that may be part of your problem. There is probably way too much oil in there. He didn't add any when he did the charges. Having said that the a/c barely worked on the initial charge after replacing the compressor. I'm thinking that your initial comment about blockage may be correct. I have had no success in finding a shop that can flush the system and have been told the only correct way to do it is to remove all the components and hoses and flush them individually with a pulsing back flush unit which no one around here seems to have. Better to just replace IMHO, but pricey. One thing I read was that blockage can occur in the orifice tube also. A complicating factor in all this is that my transmission cooler, which I've had since '96, is attached to the lower front of the condenser and I also have a power steering line cooler just at the the base of the condenser and radiator between the two. Really hesitant to start ripping things out in case one thing cascades into the other. This looks like a winter project as I don't want to be without the SVX for a major portion of the summer.
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Peter ART Cryogenic/Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, PWR Radiator, Tranny cooler, Stebro, Earthworm's Poly Differential/front & rear swaybar bushings, Koni Inserts and Mychailo SVX Sport Springs all 4 corners, Indigo Blue paint. Liquid Silver Wheels. |
#21
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Re: A/C Compressor Drag
Yeah,
600cc of oil in addition to what ever was there to start with is probably a big problem.... and may well be the cause for the increased resistance to run the compressor. This is not good and further operation may cause permanent damage to your system. I would have a serious discussion with the owner of the shop who did this to you. Draining and flushing is a pain... you need to disassemble pretty much everything. But rather straight forward. I know some use isopropanol as solvent and compressed air with a very low dew point and absolutely no oil.... a paint shop is good place to talk to.... if there's no dirt in the system do not flush the compressor. Just drain it as per the manual. I trust all this is explained in the FSM. While at it you may want to swap the expansion valve with one which is calibrated to 134a.... and the hoses too - the old R12 hoses will let the new juice seep thru them. My 500 g charge lasted three years.... Your scope starts to stretch.... . Good luck, /T |
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