idle trouble after deep puddle pass

[SURTEESS]

Sorry, you have tried what I had tried.... anyone else want to chip-in ?.

[SVX92-97]

I replaced the CTS a year and a half ago. Couldn't hurt to try again I guess.

[Kiss Me Deadly]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Maybe the CTS? It can cause surging, high idle, and frequently doesn't show a code when it's not working. Maybe water got in the connection. It's the 2-wire one, accessible from the rear, left-hand side of the engine, on the coolant crossover pipe. Try looking at it and measuring the resistance at different temperatures (a hot and cold one should suffice). The resistance at different temperatures is in the graph in this document: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/s...re/NTC_M12.pdf (This is not the exact same sensor, but the temp/resistance curve is the same).

Try also cleaning/lubricating the throttle body linkages on the right-hand side, where the cable attaches, maybe something is sticking.

Thanks for advice
I replaced CTS last summer, its the last chance, yes..
I replaced throttle cable yesterday, so there is no sticking in the linkages

Could IACV be still bad after cleaning? Resistance between 1-2 and 2-3 ~9omhs and green tab easy to move with screwdriver, no sticking..

[SVX92-97]

If you can, replace the CTS first, $20 or so. If you have the money, buy a new IACV and the auxillary, then you know you would have replaced everything. Dont forget the hoses under the intake. Good Luck!

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Kiss Me Deadly

Thanks for advice
I replaced CTS last summer, its the last chance, yes..
I replaced throttle cable yesterday, so there is no sticking in the linkages

Could IACV be still bad after cleaning? Resistance between 1-2 and 2-3 ~9omhs and green tab easy to move with screwdriver, no sticking..

If the IACV had a bad connection it might cause that problem, but I think it would throw a code.

The part of the throttle body I'm talking about is the part with the springs and stuff where the cable attaches to, not the cable itself. Check visually whether the throttle blades close fully. They should close all the way, or very close to it.

Maybe you have a leak from a cracked vacuum line, that could cause a higher than normal idle.

If the idle speed is high, then you have to be getting extra air, fuel, or timing advance from somewhere. Timing can be affected by the CTS or TPS. Fuel can be affected by the CTS, or by the wrong amount of air being measured (MAF), or the TPS. Extra air can come from the IACV, AACV, or a vacuum leak somewhere.

Did you check the TPS voltage? Search the forum for how to check it, it's pretty easy with a multimeter and a couple of needles. I'd also unplug it and make sure the connection is dry.

[Kiss Me Deadly]

In case it has begun immediately after i had passed deep puddle, the problem probably in parts, which could be damaged by water: air filter - MAF - IACV or AACV i guess.. Could TPS be damaged by water in intake boot? All the more CTS...

[icingdeath88]

It's a stretch, but if water got in the plug connection, it's possible that's the problem.

[B 4 You]

I know this sounds elementary, but have you reset the entire car by unplugging the battery overnight? My car was having a terrible idle recently, threw a code for the EGR (34), left O2 sensor and then the TPS and MAF (but the last two were because I had taken them off to clean them). I unplugged it overnight, started it the next day, threw no codes at all (yes, I checked with the blue wires into the black connector - nothing) and the idle was actually better than before. It wouldn't hurt to try

[Kiss Me Deadly]

Originally Posted by B 4 You

I know this sounds elementary, but have you reset the entire car by unplugging the battery overnight? My car was having a terrible idle recently, threw a code for the EGR (34), left O2 sensor and then the TPS and MAF (but the last two were because I had taken them off to clean them). I unplugged it overnight, started it the next day, threw no codes at all (yes, I checked with the blue wires into the black connector - nothing) and the idle was actually better than before. It wouldn't hurt to try

i replaced ECU with old one (now i have ECU with ECUtune Stage 1) which was unplugged for a couple of months - it changed nothing

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Kiss Me Deadly

Well, to review:

1. I cleaned IACV with carb cleaner - green tab is not stick, moved easily with screwdriver or pinky finger. 9 ohms between 1-2 and 2-3 terminals ok.

2. I checked AACV effects on idle - i blocked inlet pipe on throttle body and hose to it at the same time - nothing happened.
3. I replaced MAF with good one - nothing happened

4. I replaced ECU - nothing happened

5. I replaced throttle cable with new one - still nothing..

I really dont know what to do next, please help((
Idle on 1,2,3,D is 1000rpm, idle on D, N is 1500rpm

OK so the air is not getting in through the AACV unit.

Next disconnect the air pipe that runs from the air delivery tube to the IACV. It is a bigger pipe connected below the air delivery pipe.
Block the hole in the air delivery pipe, and then start to cover the end of the pipe to the IACV, to see if the engine slows as you reduce the amount of air that can get to the IACV.
This will tell if the air is getting through the IACV or from some other source.

Harvey.

[Kiss Me Deadly]

Originally Posted by oab_au

OK so the air is not getting in through the AACV unit.

Next disconnect the air pipe that runs from the air delivery tube to the IACV. It is a bigger pipe connected below the air delivery pipe.
Block the hole in the air delivery pipe, and then start to cover the end of the pipe to the IACV, to see if the engine slows as you reduce the amount of air that can get to the IACV.
This will tell if the air is getting through the IACV or from some other source.

Harvey.

I`ve done the test. Results:
-Hole in the delivery pipe blocked, end of the pipe to IACV open fully: engine runs for 5 seconds, then car dies. its like 1500rpm, 1200-1000-800-600-300-dead
-Hole in the delivery open, end of the pipe to IACV open fully: the same, but car die faster
-Hole in the delivery blocked, end of the pipe to IACV blocked: it sucked my finger and die too

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Kiss Me Deadly

I`ve done the test. Results:
-Hole in the delivery pipe blocked, end of the pipe to IACV open fully: engine runs for 5 seconds, then car dies. its like 1500rpm, 1200-1000-800-600-300-dead
-Hole in the delivery open, end of the pipe to IACV open fully: the same, but car die faster
-Hole in the delivery blocked, end of the pipe to IACV blocked: it sucked my finger and die too

Well that looks like the air is getting in through the IACV, to hold the high idle, the valve is just staying at full open.
So either the IACV is not responding to the signals the ECU is sending, (stuck, jamed or the windings in the valve are open).
Or the wiring to the valve is open ( not connected properly).

Harvey.

[Kiss Me Deadly]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Well that looks like the air is getting in through the IACV, to hold the high idle, the valve is just staying at full open.
So either the IACV is not responding to the signals the ECU is sending, (stuck, jamed or the windings in the valve are open).
Or the wiring to the valve is open ( not connected properly).

Harvey.

I guess the problem in IACV.. But im sure that green tab inside is not stuck or jamed, it could me moved easily with a flat screw driver.
Maybe i left wrong space between tab and body before installing it back to TB? I left 4-5 millimeters, like here:

[oab_au]

The amount that the valve is open there, looks like it is about right, but I have not had one off to see. This is a pic of one that is about right so it looks the same.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...4&d=1193385499
So the valve maybe set right, but the ECU maybe holding it open for some reason. Do you think you could pull the plug off the valve when it is idling fast, to see if it slows down or stays the same. That will tell us if the ECU is holding it open for some electrical reason?

Harvey.

[Kiss Me Deadly]

Originally Posted by oab_au

The amount that the valve is open there, looks like it is about right, but I have not had one off to see. This is a pic of one that is about right so it looks the same.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...4&d=1193385499
So the valve maybe set right, but the ECU maybe holding it open for some reason. Do you think you could pull the plug off the valve when it is idling fast, to see if it slows down or stays the same. That will tell us if the ECU is holding it open for some electrical reason?

Harvey.

I was not able to unplug it on idling car, but i unpluged it before start and again nothing happened, 1250 on P, N, 1000 on other