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#46
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Dumped the oil today, refilled with mobil 1 10w30 + wix 51287 and decided to leave the diff, trans, and plugs for later because it was -15 F outside.
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#47
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Also, and I did search ---wait a second
I did search! I have noticed that it seems that the internal part of my headlight assembly is covered in a fine residue. It also appears that they are plastic? I looked at the threads available, is it really okay to dump these in the oven? Also, does anyone have a good suggestion for mildly cleaning the interior without disassembly? It isn't that bad, but it is occluding my light also. 9006-9005 mod performed. Thanks! |
#48
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Either get clear lenses or if you don't wanna spend that much, get one of those hookup's for your drill and clean the inside with that. There's a how to somewhere about it..
I sugest clear lenses and clear corners..
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1992 Pearl White LS-L "Ruslana" #4946 - 180k on body, 95k on engine. Mods: ECU bead crush, 15 min mod, 20 min mod, drilled/slotted rotors & Axxis ceramic brakes, SS lines, 17" Evoke F1 wheels, XS-HF137 Sony Xplod speakers, 6000k HID's (lows & fogs), resistor mod, 1½" Sleek Spoiler mod, custom exhaust by svxfiles, '02 WRX aluminum racing radiator by svxfiles, Summit Racing 400# x 300# springs w/ Koni's by svxfiles, ClassGlass fiberglass hood /w scoop, Nevin's rear sway bar, '97 grille, phenolic spacers, custom LED interior lighting, custom paint. †"War doesn't determine who is right, only who is left"† Work to be done: Tinted windows, clear/LED tail lights, tailbar mod, "Power Mode" mod, Supertone horns, clear corners & headlight lenses, 2 pc splitters or custom bumper, Alcyone side skirts, TruSpeed Stage III SVX Intake, Hydra, 4.44 tranny swap, JDM auto folding side mirrors, engine rebuild, super charger, STi seats, bone leather interior /w SVX emblem, dash overhaul, SVX decals, paint (stock color). Total cost?: 22k At least it's going down..
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#49
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Yeah, I used a buffing wheel and some rubbing compound, much better.
Another question, I have noticed that I have no cel on the dash? Anyone else encountered this before? Are the lights easy to replace on the cluster? I found the how-to for removing it. Thanks! |
#50
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
My other question is where is a good spot to tap into for placing an electric oil psi sender? Do we have galley plugs lurking around? Not for the bling at all, just cause I like to know before the big $$$ sign lights up on the dash.
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#51
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Bump!
I know where the stock sender is but I doubt it would be a provident idea to "t" off it to get a reading. |
#52
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Quick update:
1. Changed the ATF - I asked around as I was worried about putting 4-6 quarts of subaru ATF - dex IV synth in there and having my 120k 4eat **** all over itself. The consensus seemed to be that it was okay.....no spewing as of yet, let's all cross our fingers. 2. Changed the gear oil out also. 3. Put two new belts on. 4. Visual inspection of Timing belt.....thing looks damn near perfect!! Just enough deflecton, no dings, knicks, or otherwise. 5. Confirmed o-ring on bottom of reservoir is going, glad I ordered it on friday. 6. Did my first plug change, much smoother. 7. Confirmed location of knock sensors as CEl light was out when I bought the car, needs both knocks and a left - 02, all incoming. codes 22 - 28 - 37 8. Measured resistance of resistor, failing.........where can I get a repalcement people? Post up some links please. |
#53
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Re: New member, please answer my Q's...
Update two....
1. Yes, taking off the engine lift bracket with the ac attached is a much better way to change the rear knock sensor. Do clip the wings on the harness and make sure you have one of the four pronged flexible retrievers. Helps loads. 2. Replaced left bank 02, had been throwing an intermittent code, sorta sucks to get at the harness though. oxygensensors.com was the best $$$. Reset all the codes, seems to smooth right along and I can definitely tell the timing is better. Both the old ones were complete open circuits. No cracks or structural failure though. Next is the crank pulley and the second replacement of the atf along with a new resonator. |
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