I have a theory about the blinky power light

dwd1985 · #1 03-04-2006, 01:02 PM

So what is odd to me is that some people who have installed their Smallcar shift kits get the blinking power light at startup, and others dont. I just installed my kit, and didnt get the blinking light, although I got my kit used from svxcuseme, and when he had his on, he DID have the blinking power light, until he added on some extra resistors. So I got to thinking, using the same kit, why would his blink and mine not? Well, there are 2 green wires to choose from to cut and connect to the shift kit. Did anyone think about the fact that maybe using one wire might give the blinking light, but the other wire doesnt? Everyone should take a look at their resistors, and look at which wire they used. Perhaps the people who used the bottom wire (when the resistor is plugged) get the blinking light, and the people who use the top wire dont. Just a thought.

ensteele · #2 03-04-2006, 02:42 PM

I know several members have commented that the instructions say it doesn't matter which one is cut, but it realy does. SamllCar hits again.

intelisevil · #3 03-04-2006, 09:10 PM

Yes, please figure this out before I install mine . . .

Dan

$ gest24 $ · #4 03-04-2006, 09:24 PM

My power light only blinks sometimes. Not every start up but intermitten random start ups.

svxcess · #5 03-04-2006, 11:10 PM

I know it "shouldn't" make a difference but... this can't be a coincidence.

Everyone who I know who has successfully installed the kit, myself, Chike, Immortal Suby, newsvx, Andrew, and others hve cut the green wire with the yellow stripe and left the green/red one intact.

Trevor, one of our more experienced and knowledgable members, first suggested this when the kit first came out. He also was the one to help smallcar configure the resistance circuit to stop the 16 blinks. Trevor recommended cutting the green/yellow, so I went with his advice and cut the green/yellow one (just to be safe).

Here is what another experienced member oab_au has said:

It doesn't matter which wire you cut. What does matter is which end of the wire is connected to the resistor that is in the Shift kit, when it opens.

Green/Red wire------dropping resistor-------kit resistor------switch contacts-----
Green/Yellow wire---A solenoid

This will run the Green/Red wire to ground through the kit resistor, and all will be well.

But if it is connected:

Green/Red wire ----dropping resistor-----switch contacts----kit resistor-----
Green/Yellow wire----A solenoid.

In this hookup, when the kit switch opens, the dropping resistor line is open circuit, and the A solenoid is connected to ground through the kit resistor. This will bring on the light, as the TCU detects the open.

Maybe he can clarify this a little bit better...

.

oab_au · #6 03-06-2006, 04:56 PM

John that is an old set up that was suggested a few years ago, when the kit just opened circuited the resistor line. The kit changed a few times since then. It had the 3 terminal switch replaced with a 2 terminal one, but I must admit that I don't know what they ended up with.

Can you tell me how the extra resistor is connected at the switch. Is it switched in to series with the dropping resistor, or does it switch the dropping resistor to ground through the extra resistor?

I never really liked the kit as it really did not do anything to the actual changes. Just raised the line pressure, in relation to the throttle position, but if you can fill me it on that, I'll look at it.

Harvey.

DarknessofDeath · #7 03-06-2006, 05:30 PM

may be that is the thing.
i do believe that the shift kit that i had before was the three terminal and the one that i have now is two. and the thing is that i dont recall that the terminals to be plugged in are the only two that are given. i thought it was the two furthest away from each other.- correct me if i am wrong. this was a couple of years ago and i didn't own the car long and had the shift kit for a shorter time than that.

actually with the diagram...which i'm not too sure of = from where it states "moving wire contact connected to good ground". does that mean we have to ground the kit? ( that it is the black metal plate we need to tighten down somwhere. i just put it in with the top screw for the original resistor.

intelisevil · #8 03-06-2006, 08:51 PM

DOD - Things must be looking up for you these days! Not a single

in your post. I don't count the ones in your signature because people don't change those everyday.

Dan

DarknessofDeath · #9 03-08-2006, 06:00 AM

i've actually been busy the last few weeks and have come onto the network a lot less than i wanted to.

as for the

i got a few hints that people didn't like me posting them so frequently...so i had to cut them out.

but as for things looking up....no

i went to do rear wheel bearings a couple wednesdays ago and had my car sitting on the hoist for 9 days because a couple of bolts were seized onto the arms and the bearings were seized on the spindles. it was a back order that made my car sit.
at the same time i had to replace my

abs sensors as well...

in the end my bill was 3300$ ~ 1900 worth in parts alone.

and before the job i was quoted that it would be around a 600$ job...

intelisevil · #10 03-08-2006, 06:35 AM

Ouch, sorry to hear that.

Dan

DarknessofDeath · #11 03-08-2006, 11:05 AM

yeah dont' worry

life's not fair!

deputymarshall · #12 11-01-2006, 10:32 AM

So...my 92 Lsi with 131k had the blinking power light at startup. Also had herky-jerky shifting. In particular a hard shift into 1st.

I checked the tranmission codes..."11" for solenoid A.

I pulled the resistor and bought two replacement ceramic resistors (25 watt/15 ohm).

I also bought a smallcar shift kit.

I installed one of the new ceramic resistors with the small car shift kit in series. Car ran and shifted great. Big improvement. But power light still blinked.

I reversed the connections to the smallcar shift kit (still in series...just going through the small car resistor in the opposite direction). Power light still blinked.

I took the spare resistor I had and soldered it up with connectors. I removed the the cermic resistor/small car kit described above. Car ran and shifted great and NO BLINKING POWER LIGHT.

I'm now going to reinstall the shiftkit and change the wires (i.e. have the small car shift kit in series...but change which side of the ceramic resistor it's on).

-Jim D.

Trevor · #13 11-02-2006, 01:52 AM

First I must let off steam because I spent endless time, many moons ago, sorting out, what I consider an unnecessary device and what is more, Smallcar should be backing their product with the required information so often called for by their customers.

The dubious object of the system is to open the OEM resistor circuit so as to increase transmission line pressure under certain conditions. The object was to insert a pressure sensitive switch in the resistor circuit for this purpose, i.e. the wire cut and the switch inserted.

In this situation when the switch operates, the diagnostic fault circuitry will find an open circuit and indicate a fault with a blinking light. In order to prevent this, a high value resistor is connected across the switch contacts, so that the circuit is not fully opened by the switch, but a high resistance inserted in series kills effective operation, as would completely opening the circuit.

Take into account the following information which I have posted several times and in particular note reference to the dropping resistor circuit.

DUTY SOLENOID VALVE "A".

This is a pulse width modulated duty solenoid valve, ( Sometimes known as a pulsoid). The device is incorporated in the SVX transmission control system in order to adjust line pressure in the following manner :-

The fluid line is provided with a bleed or bypass via an on/off device, in the form of an electrically operated valve. This solenoid valve is opened and closed repeatedly, in a rhythmical manner by a control current which is turned on and off by the transmission control unit (TCU) at a very fast rate. The valve is a normally closed device, and remains closed in the event of the loss off a control current.

After passing through this modulated solenoid valve, the continually interrupted pressure is in the form of a pulsed flow. When the peaks level off with the troughs, there is a resulting overall steady reduced pressure. The level of this pressure is adjusted by varying the on/off intervals. Most often the length of the on time is adjusted and the number of on/off pulses per second is kept constant. The usual rate is around 50 cycles per second.

The resulting adjusted output pressure is therefore delivered as a rapidly fluctuating stream. The system incorporates an expansion chamber as a smoothing element, which works as a sort of cushion. This device is usually in the form of a cylinder and piston or diaphragm, backed by a coil spring. In the SVX system the component is described as a Pressure Modifier Accumulator. The high pressure peaks in the stream press the piston outwards and become rounded off, while the low pressure troughs are filled in as a result of the piston moving inwards under spring pressure. The end result is a smoother level of pressure, such that controlled devices are not materially affected.

An increase in the volume of fluid controlled, is achieved by transferring the solenoid regulated pressure, to a pressure modifier valve and a regulator valve.

It should be clear that by “chopping” the fluid supply in an adjustable way, pressure control is achieved economically using a simple poppet type solenoid valve, with few mechanical or electrical complications. However the valve remains in a continuos cycling mode, which imposes rather arduous mechanical stresses.

THE DROPPING RESISTOR CIRCUIT.

It will be immediately apparent that a sudden on off cycle tends to cause what could be called a hammering of the valve seat, even though this is largely checked by the viscosity of controlled fluid flow. The dropping resistor introduces a second series of current pulses applied in parallel with the control signal. These shorter pulses are applied during the off cycles and timed to check the travel of the armature as it reaches the closed position, thus reducing both shock and noise. These secondary parallel signals in effect, “round off” the closing period and reduce the closing shock. This arrangement can be made even more sophisticated and configured so as to soften the the opening cycle, as well as the closing of the valve.

It will be appreciated that reducing the resistance in the circuit, or opening the circuit by omitting the dropping resistor, has two outcomes. Firstly the relative electrical off time is increased thus increasing the line pressure and therefore makes shifts more abrupt. Importantly as a second issue, increased shock loads are applied to the valve.

The resistor should measure between 9 and 15 ohms to be within specifications. The usual is about 12 ohms.

It is a documented fact that the line pressure control solenoid is the first to fail due to having by far the most arduous duty to fulfill. Failure is usually mechanical resulting in the valve seat not closing properly and as a result line pressure is markedly reduced. The end results are drastic, especially in respect of transmission friction surfaces. The fault will not necessarily be registered as a fault code, as the armature of the valve can be in the fully closed position with the problem confined to a worn and faulty valve seat. In the event of an electrical fault, which will register, the valve being normally closed, will fail safe and result in maximum line pressure.

Earthworm · #14 11-02-2006, 08:40 AM

Trevor, I have seen this writeup enough times now that I have just decided to add it to the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com in the transmissions section.

Trevor · #15 11-02-2006, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deputymarshall

I'm now going to reinstall the shiftkit and change the wires (i.e. have the small car shift kit in series...but change which side of the ceramic resistor it's on).

-Jim D.

N.B. It makes no difference in any shape or form, where the OEM resistor circuit is broken. A simple series circuit is involved.