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  #1  
Old 10-04-2004, 08:54 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Removing condensation from the waterfall grille

Here is a thread for all you scientists and engineers.

There have been many threads on condensation and moisture buildup inside the waterfall grille. In the back of the grille is a small air "port" covered by a curved rubber hose, to keep water out while allowing air to move in and out, depending on the temperature. I noticed that when I washed my car today, my clear grille satrted to fog. I am assuming that the air inside of the grille was heated by the radiator and when I stopped the car and started to wash it the cold water on the grille caused the warm air inside the grille to condense.

Here is my theory:

Insulated window glass/sliding glass doors in the home remains clear all year long, despite the vast differences between inside and outside temperature, because the air has been extracted from between the two layers of glass, leaving a vacuum. No air-no condensation. When that vacuum is broken, air enters and condensation starts to form.

So I thought that I would...

Remove the grille and place it in a warm oven for awhile to dry out the condensation. Turn off the oven, removethe grille or leave it in the oven and allow it to cool to room temperature. I then connect a small piece of hose to the port in the back of the grille and the other end to the port on one of those "foodsaver" vacuum packaging systems. I remove all of the air from the grille and crimp and seal the hose at the grille before removing the vacuum line. Another product that is far cheaper is the Pump-n-Seal hand vacuum system
http://www.pump-n-seal.com/

Using the Pump -n Seal system, you could permanently seal off the "port" in the grille, drill another hole and use the "tab-chek" over the hole to remove the air. http://www.pump-n-seal.com/pumnseal2.htm

It seems now that there is no air left in the grille, there would be nothing to condense. Of course you would have to make sure that all seams of the grille were sealed with RTV prior to doing this. If it doesn't work, you are no worse off than you were before.

Is this sound logic and something that may work? A new grille is 266.00 from subaruparts.com and is guaranteed for a year. The Pump-n-Seal is only $11.95 plus shipping.
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Last edited by svxcess; 10-05-2004 at 02:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-04-2004, 10:31 PM
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I am no engineer, but I think that sounds like it just might work. I don't know if you could get it completely air tight or if you could get all the air out. I think air would slowly seep back in somehow over a long period of time. I think it's a very interesting experiment though and definitely worth a try.

Good Luck!
--Mike
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2004, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yoda3000
I don't know if you could get it completely air tight or if you could get all the air out. I think air would slowly seep back in somehow over a long period of time.
Reversing the process, you could add a hose to the port at the back of the grille and pump air INTO the grille while the grille was submerged underwater. Air bubbles would show you where the air was leaking out of the grille (much the same way that you submerge a tire in water you want to patch to find the hole)

If you could seal all of the leaks first, then vacuum out the air, the condensation should never return. Running a bead of clear RTV around the perimeter of the grille where the black plastic and the clear waterfall meet should do the trick.
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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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Last edited by svxcess; 10-05-2004 at 02:18 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-04-2004, 11:44 PM
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sounds good. just make sure you seal of that hose good and tight after you suck the air out.
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2004, 02:30 PM
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I wouldn't vacuum the air out...just bake it and seal it. It's still going to pull air back in eventually.
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2004, 05:54 PM
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That's is a great plan. I really like it and I think it would work as you say as long as the waterfall assembly is sealed up.

I have noticed that my waterfall grill will get condesation right after I clean it. You know with Novis plastic cleaner. Than after about a month it goes away. Any idea why? It has been suggested that there is a hole in the plastic from a rock and when I clean it the hole opens up. Pulling a vaccum on the part is a good idea. What about clear coat? Can that be sprayed on the plastic?
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2004, 06:28 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Leaky lens.

There must be a leak between the clear lens and the backing plastic piece. As you say it gets water in when you wash it. This is when there is water laying along the seam, between the two pieces, and when it is cooled, it pulls the water in as the rubber drain has a one way opening, to let air out, but closes to prevent air from entering.

Your idea of blowing air in, while it is under water to find the leak worked for me, to find the leak in my rear tail light lens, that I sealed with silastic. Hasn't leaked since.

Harvey.
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Old 10-05-2004, 07:41 PM
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Re: Leaky lens.

Quote:
Originally posted by oab_au
...it pulls the water in as the rubber drain has a one way opening, to let air out, but closes to prevent air from entering.

The rubber drain (curved piece of rubber hose) on the back of the grille is to keep water from entering the grille through the "port"

When I pulled the hose off of the end of the port, there was just a small hole there, not a one-way valve or opening, just a hole. I guess the purpose of the hose is to allow air to escape from the hole but also allow air back in, but not water.

Or do you mean the curved hose itself has a one-way opening? I just assumed it was a normal piece of hose and you could blow through either end without obstruction.
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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

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Last edited by svxcess; 10-05-2004 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 10-05-2004, 07:54 PM
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Re: Re: Leaky lens.

Quote:
Originally posted by svxcess



The rubber drain (curved piece of rubber hose) on the back of the grille is to keep water from entering the grille through the "port"

When I pulled the hose off of the end of the port, there was just a small hole there, not a one-way valve or opening, just a hole. I guess the purpose of the hose is to allow air to escape from the hole but also allow air back in, but not water.

Or do you mean the curved hose itself has a one-way opening? I just assumed it was a normal piece of hose and you could blow through either end without obstruction.
Just went out to check, you are right, I thought that the end of the hose was flattened to act as a valve, gawd wrong again, but I recond the rest is right. My tail light sucked water every time I hit it with the hose when hot.

Harvey.
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Old 10-05-2004, 09:03 PM
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Re: Removing condensation from the waterfall grille

Quote:
Originally posted by svxcess
Is this sound logic and something that may work? A new grille is 266.00 from subaruparts.com and is guaranteed for a year. The Pump-n-Seal is only $11.95 plus shipping. [/B]
There is also a 3rd option...make me an offer on the waterfall I've got up for sale. Never had any condensation issues with it
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Old 10-06-2004, 09:17 PM
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Insulated window glass/sliding glass doors in the home remains clear all year long, despite the vast differences between inside and outside temperature, because the air has been extracted from between the two layers of glass, leaving a vacuum. No air-no condensation. When that vacuum is broken, air enters and condensation starts to form.
=================

I also believe they fill this vacuum with a gas - don't know if that is for condensation or not.
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