Trashed u-joint

dizzan · #1 08-24-2007, 07:59 PM

So, I've had my SVX sitting around for a while with no time to diagnose the strange thunking noise it began making a while back. Luckily it's not my daily driver so I parked it in the garage when it started and have just now had a chance to get under it and check it out... well, turns out the front u-joint on the shaft is totally trashed as you'll see in the attached pics. The rest of that piece of shaft is fine, as well as the rear assembly. Turns freely with no play... Question is, how hard are these to replace and anyone know a source for parts/prices??

Thanks,
Dan

YourConfused · #2 08-24-2007, 08:09 PM

Due to the amount of rust everywhere I would recomend just getting a used driveshaft from someone here. Otherwise Spicer makes strong u jopints for basically everything there is. Lifetime warranty and usually around $45 a pop.in texas. Have fun!

dizzan · #3 08-24-2007, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YourConfused

Due to the amount of rust everywhere I would recomend just getting a used driveshaft from someone here. Otherwise Spicer makes strong u jopints for basically everything there is. Lifetime warranty and usually around $45 a pop.in texas. Have fun!

Do you know what's involved in swapping the driveshaft?

YourConfused · #4 08-24-2007, 10:26 PM

It should be a simple (you have just removed everything under it like exhaust) there are just 4 bolts holding it to the rear diff. I have never touched a svx aside from mine, but I have removed atleast 40 driveshafts in other rides. they are all about the same.

Oh, there are 1 piece and 2 piece d-shafts. On the 2 piece there is a carrier bearing with support bracket that will need to be removed. Usually it is just 2 more bolts.
6 bolts/nuts in the driveline iis a rather simple job.
While it (d-shaft) is out you may as well replace the output seal on the trans.
I'm not a svx xpert as I have owned mine for 8 months, but this just basic auto info I'm givin here.
Again, goodluck

dizzan · #5 08-24-2007, 10:36 PM

Sounds easy enough... now if anyone has a shaft for sale

From what i've read it looks like some models have diff shafts. Mine's an 96 LSi and has a 2 piece shaft. I guess I will crosspost to the wanted forum.

longassname · #6 08-25-2007, 11:25 PM

my eyes...my eyes...you northerners and your salt

msg tomsvx

he can get the u joints in your driveshaft replaced

or just buy a new driveshaft from the dealer. I used to order from 1st subaru before i opened an account with my local dealer

dizzan · #7 08-26-2007, 06:56 AM

Yeah I know.. rust is terrible. Luckily I just bought a new house with room for about 6 cars in garage so at least she won't have to sit out this winter!!!

Merz · #8 08-26-2007, 07:05 PM

Rockford driveline has replaceable svx u-joints for around $26. I ordered one a few days ago. havent installed it yet.

dizzan · #9 08-27-2007, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merz

Rockford driveline has replaceable svx u-joints for around $26. I ordered one a few days ago. havent installed it yet.

Do you have to cut the old u joint off and weld the replacement on or what??

Merz · #10 08-27-2007, 01:49 PM

You press the old one out with a shop press or drive it out with a punch. Then i think you do a little grinding or filing, and the new one is pressed in and held with clips. A few other people on the network have installed these successfully.

Here is the webpage http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

Merz · #11 08-27-2007, 04:39 PM

I got the u-joint in the mail today. looks nice, and has a zerk fitting. Says it exceeds oem specifications.
Does anyone know if i have to drain my transmission fluid before i remove the drive shaft? I think i remember it leaking last time i removed it. Might have been something else though. it was a while ago. thanks

Turbone · #12 08-28-2007, 11:28 AM

Dont have to drain it, just put a pan under the tail shaft to catch what does drain. You may have to jack the back up so you can turn the wheels in order to turn the shaft to get access to all 4 bolts on the shaft flange. Then you will need to use a screwdriver to hold the u-joint so you can loosen the nuts. Make sure you put stands under the car tho before crawling under

This is what happened to the PO of my SVX when the front u-joints went out.

Merz · #13 08-28-2007, 08:32 PM

Thanks. I installed the new u-joint today. Removing/installing the driveshaft didnt take long. Only hard part was getting the old u-joint out of the shaft. Some of the caps were busted and there was about a 1/4 inch of play in it. I ended up breaking my vice trying to press it out. Then i tried c-clamps and sledgehammers, with no luck. Finally ended up cutting it out with the torch. Putting the new one in took about half an hour. Sort of hard to get all the pieces in and lined up right. Fits good though. No play at all. All together it took me around 3 hours. Lots cheaper than buying a whole new driveshaft.

I took if for a drive afterwards and the loud clicking sound is gone and most of the vibration is also gone. Still some vibration around 50 mph. I think the driveshaft needs balancing.

wynndi · #14 08-30-2007, 10:12 AM

I'm going to be removing my rear drive shaft this weekend (long-time vibe on "launch" and no other time).

Anything I should know that the Haynes manual might not cover?

Thanks!

dannmarr · #15 09-02-2007, 10:58 AM

I had mine custom made. A drive shaft shop welded on a new universal U- joint and yoke with a grease fitting. $250 with balance. He convinced me not to go with the replacable stake in U-joints because it will never fit right. Check out my locker.