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  #1  
Old 05-07-2005, 10:54 AM
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wynndi wynndi is offline
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Rear Window Still Hosed!

  • Window won't retract from Rear Passenger or driver control
  • No noise from the motor with either control
What's my best way to troubleshoot without tearing up the interior?
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Last edited by wynndi; 05-30-2005 at 07:25 PM. Reason: New Info
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  #2  
Old 05-07-2005, 03:37 PM
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Check the wiring to and from the main switch(driver door) from there I think the wiring runs just onder the door sill/carpet edge check the wires at the door jamb to because of the movement it could break the wires there too.

Edit: perhaps under the rear seat since its on the other side
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2005, 11:59 PM
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If any part of the circuit is bad, the window won't work. When I had the rear switches unplugged while putting speakers in, the rear windows wouldn't function even from the driver's switch.
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Old 05-09-2005, 02:55 PM
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Check the connection to the rear switches.
  1. remove rear seat bottom
  2. remove the 2 clips holding the panel on (1 on bottom, 1 on top back)
  3. pull the panel off
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:04 PM
SVXer95 SVXer95 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
Check the connection to the rear switches.
  1. remove rear seat bottom
  2. remove the 2 clips holding the panel on (1 on bottom, 1 on top back)
  3. pull the panel off
The removal is quite easy and goes as earthworm said. However, be sure to use caution when pulling off the panel. It is pretty easy to break the clips that hold the panel in place. Also be careful not to break the rocker cover.
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:42 PM
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And the reason for my window failure is......dead motor. Both switches are sending current to the motor, motor is DOA.


Troubleshooting tip for anyone with this problem. Remove back seat, uncouple quick-disconnect (green). With a multimeter, read 2 female pins for current while car is "on" and front switch/back switches are operated. If there is no current, don't remove side panel, the problem is "upstream".
****SEE UPDATE IN #9 ENTRY OF THIS THREAD****
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Last edited by wynndi; 05-29-2005 at 11:49 AM.
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2005, 08:05 AM
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Taking off the panels is really easy, once you do it one time you could do it a billion times.
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2005, 09:08 AM
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WOW, I just learned that my R/R window does not work either...thanks for the info, my next project after my trans shift kit comes today (maybe today).
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2005, 11:45 AM
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Angry *Follow-up* Not good~~~~

I finally found the time to put in my new rear window motor, but decided to do some last minute troubleshooting:

  • With panel off, old motor does click when told to go up. NO sound trying to go down.
  • With new motor plugged in, it goes up, no down.
  • Using driver door control, I get a click on up, not down.
  • Using back switch from passenger side (bad side) on good side (driver's side) driver's side window works fine.

Soooo, the motor likely is ok. The passenger side back switch is ok. Could it be my driver's door switch? I really REALLY don't want to tear the car up any more than I have to!

** Pulled the driver's door panel, unseated and reseated plugs. Pulled boot back from wiring in door jamp, no obvious broken wires....this is getting frustrating.**
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Last edited by wynndi; 05-29-2005 at 12:15 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2005, 02:19 PM
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Stupid question, do you have the window lock button pressed?
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  #11  
Old 05-29-2005, 04:01 PM
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Nope! All of the windows work normally except for the passenger rear. I even tried cycling the lockout on and off while pressing the passenger rear window button.
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:07 PM
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You'll have to check all wires for continuity. I'm willing to bet there's a plug behind the kick panels with a loose connection. That was the case with my door locks. (Plug was behind driver's kick panel in my case)
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  #13  
Old 05-31-2005, 06:19 PM
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**calling All Wiring Gurus**

Good tip! That will be my next step. Anyone know which wires I should be specifically looking for? It'd be whatever wire powers the rear passenger window down.
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  #14  
Old 06-01-2005, 02:27 PM
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You'll have to take that panel off and take a look at the color of the wires. Find where those wires have connections and test for continuity through the connection.

Someone with a FSM handy should be able to tell you where the connections are.
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