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#1
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Help with manual conversion
Hi
Currently doing a manual conversion on a right hand drive model. I'm not too experienced with transmissions and not sure whether its been done in New Zealand or Australia before with a RHD model. I'm using a turbo 91 Legacy RS as the donor. installed the pedals after playing round with wiring loom, great fun. I am now tring to install the gearbox and rear diff and have two problems. Firstly the rear diff the right hand half shaft will not go into the diff. It stops about 15mm away from where it should be. the shaft will turn the diff but will not go in. The 2 diffs look exactly the same size, any ideas? Secondly the front shafts, the svx shafts come out from inside the gearbox while the legacy ones are attached by a splitpin joining a shaft coming out the gearbox to the inner cv. Is there something i'm missing? Thanks very much |
#2
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G'day mate
i'm currently finishing off my conversion here in the land of oz, i've used clutch pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder and hydralic line from a my01 wrx. i used the hole where the wiring loom came through the fire wall after relocating it, had the tail shaft lengthened professionally rather then using an extension (it leaves the centre bearing located in its original position and looks very stock) as for the rear diff i swapped the stub axles from the sxv to wrx diff as they are different. the front half shafts can be modified to fit using the outer cups of the cv joints of the donor vehicle to give you the locating pin holes. 'E' |
#3
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thanks for the quick reply, wiring loom is a huge pain. Glad that part is over. I have a couple other questions if you or someone can help
Do you know if the BC legacy and driveshaft has a different length to the my01 and how much did you extend it by? Did you change the whole stub axle right from the hub, meaning the wrx and svx have the same length? And on the front, i have removed the inner cv from its housing (by accident didn't realise had pin ) the svx inner cv will fit inside this housing? Thanks, |
#4
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did you move the loom and cot a new hole, like i did or did you just move it to the side?
i'm not sure about the difference in length between the two cars drive shafts, i would have to measure that again (should have written that down). i also replaced the universal joints with replaceable items late model commodore. i pulled the stub axles out of the svx diff leaving the half shafts intact, i'm using a legacy diff aswell. if the inner part does not fit take it off the axle and replace it with the legacy inner cv its only held on by circlip. |
#5
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I moved the wiring loom down, and cut a new hole above the where it goes through the fire wall. I extended the rods so the master cylinder is clear of the protruding edge. It was the only way i could get the pedal high enough without cutting and rewelding. Have one extra hole my first attempt had the pedal catch on heater box had to drill new holes .
How do your pedals line up? I know the wrx ones are slightly different. i ended up just changing over brake pedal and using existing framing but means the brake is lower and further out than the other pedals. the only solution seems to be to cut a section out and weld it back together. Just went out and had a look at the front cvs, they have the same pin which i took out and looks like it should fit perfect. I'm sure it wasn't there before So you had no trouble inserting rear svx half shalfs into legacy diff? My diff may just be corroded, they took a lot of effort to come out |
#6
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Nice work fellas!
I presume you have already taken note of this: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...threadid=23600 It's on the FAQs and How-tos at the top of the main Network forums page. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#7
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You'll have to swap the Legacy Ring and pinion into your SVX rear diff, or put the SVX LSD unit into the legacy rear diff, to make the SVX rear axles work.
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#8
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the legacy rear diff is lsd already
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#9
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Not all LSD rear diff's use the same axles.....
__________________
Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#10
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I don't know very much about diffs the most i've disassembled one was changing the backing plate from the svx to the legacy one so it had the right mounting points. The housing looks exactly the same. Which parts do i need to change over?
The interesting part is the legacy shafts fit into the svx diff, so shouldn't it fit the other way round? |
#11
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Have you tried putting the Legacy axles into the SVX hubs?
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#12
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Not yet cause both the legacy and svx are still bolted into hubs, haven't gone and bought a big enough socket yet
I'm also not sure not sure if they are the same length, I was trying to use as many svx parts as possible to reduce problems will future repairs. If one side fits in shouldn't the other? Why would subaru make only one different? |
#13
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I had this problem once with another car. It was just a slight imperfection in the splines (cheap reman axle) and rust . We didn't have to fix it, we just convinced it a little bit.
clean the stub real good with a soft brush and brake/parts cleaner. Then do the same to the mating surfaces of the svx axle. I used a wire brush. Put some bearing or lithium grease on the stub and do the same with it's new friend, enough to aid in introduction. I used bearing grease With the car on jack stands, ebrake off, and wheel installed... Start sliding them together by hand and slowley turn the wheel. Use both hands to guide the axle. Get an assistant if you can't do both at the same time. Seems dumb, but it helped align and wiggle around the problem. If this doesn't work I would start thinking about swapping some parts in the diffs. or try swaping the sides. (put your right on the left an left on right) you should also feel around and look at the spring pin hole on the stub to make sure it isn't chewed, that could be stopping you around there.
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#14
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Thanks everyone for their help. I have sorted out the front driveshafts after i removed the pins on the svx to remove the stubs everything went together fine.
The problem is the rear the legacy diff is too stiff to just push the svx half shaft into the diff. The legacy has stubs so can be persuaded with a hammer. The svx does not have the same stubs. Prob just going to change inner rear cv to the legacy housing so can have stubs will make it easier if ever have to change diff. |
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