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  #16  
Old 02-25-2003, 09:14 PM
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According to John(SVXcess) all the TSBs were incorporated into the last rebuild of my trany, it doesn't mean that 70k miles later they haven't warm out again, but I'm hoping that something can be done to at least make it last another year, as I have already spent most of the spare repair money i had allocated. What was I thinking. Anyway, worse case scenario, I'll have to park the car for a while, and drive my legend(without 2nd gear). As I have noticed so far in the last week, I should be able to save enough on the gas alone to replace the trany in about 2 months. But I'll have to save some money for the engine too, there's a bottom end knock. I may dig up a old motor and rebuild it, that would be fun.

All the great info you and others have provided about the trany may help me, but most of the solutions indeed require a full rebuild.

I'll just have to see..
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2003, 08:15 AM
hotshoe50
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engine AND transmission now???

Chris,

I followed your cross country drive and all the posts that led up to that...

It looks like both the engine and transmission need to be rebuilt..

This sounds FAR more than co-incidental and there were so many posts about what an incredible buy this car would be and you payed a fairly big dollar for it given the higher mileage.

What does the previous owner say about these failures? Personally it seems to me that there MUST have been some clues that things were going south while the car was heading west

What are you thinking about these coincidences????

Hotshoe
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2003, 12:18 PM
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Just heard from the trany shop.........
I need a new trany.
Now I have to decide whether I pop in a 5 speed or rebuild, they gave me a price of $3-4kCAN(special price).

I have asked them to do a full flush anyways, he said it won't hurt, but a waste of money, if I can baby it for a few more months, I can them make a decision..
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2003, 12:20 PM
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I know that the previous owner would not have sold the car to me knowing about these issues. And he may not have noticed any of these problems, other than the vibration. His mechanic should have seen some of these signs for him. But John is quite inocent here.
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2003, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Beav
Are you familiar with the TSB regarding the front pump gasket in the transmission? The gasket has a problem of failure, causing noise and/or lack of line pressure (up to 50% they say, probably more in the real world.) This will possibly/probably cause the lag going from P/N to D or R until enough pressure builds at idle to move things around inside the tranny. Once underway a better flow is built up and the tranny should act close to normal.
I just got back from the dealer, and the person who drove the car said that there are definitely serious tranny problems there. He stated that he believes that it is due to the gaskets in the transmission. I had them call the warranty company, who said that they will find a *used* transmission within a week to put into the car. Better than nothing, and if it breaks again then I guess the warranty company will have to redo.
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  #21  
Old 02-26-2003, 06:35 PM
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I just called the Suby dealer to find a price for a refurb'd trany.
The price for the trany is $3180CAN + $2400 core charge. This is the part only. 12 month warrantee only.

I was not able to speak to the tech who Diag'd the trany, but they decided not to change any fluid, as it would be better for every one, I might get another 20k miles if I leave it alone.

The trany guy who looked at my car for free rebuilds trany's for performance cars, still have to get a quote from him, but they do things a little different, they include performance matching parts for the purpose of the car. Their warrantee is negotiable.
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  #22  
Old 02-26-2003, 10:46 PM
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>>>To top that off, my motor has a bad, and getting worse, bottom end knock

This problem likely has an easy fix - change your oil.

It is not as trivial as it sounds - I almost have written off my own engine, it developed a serious knock to the point of check engine light (knock sensors) coming on. The knock started with a fresh oil (500 miles), so it was the last thing I suspected.
The sound was I guess of a piston slap - loud, coming from the center of the engine (like if you hammer engine with a biggish spoon), louder from under the car, but not a dull noise and not a lifter noise. The mileage was 155k.

It went away completely couple days after an oil change & flush (gunk and mobil 1 mineral oil). The bad oil was valvoline synthethic blend - I suspect it was a problem batch, the same oil type worked for me for a few years...

As far as transmission goes, skipping 2nd gear is not something you have good chances of fixing without taking the tranny out.
The only other diagnostic that has not been mentioned yet is to measure ATF line pressure after oil pump (gasket failure) and to measure oil pressure on brake band when transmission is in 2nd gear (manual button on + shift in 2). I'm not sure if there is a port for brake band pressure though.

Roughly, the clutches in the tranny operate in the following maner:
1st gear: forward clutch on, brake band OFF
2nd gear: forward clutch on, brake band ON
3rd gear: forward clutch on, brake band OFF, high clutch on
4th gear: forward clutch on, brake band on, high clutch on
lockup: 4th gear + torque converter clutch on.

If you have 1st and 3rd/4th gear, the likely problem is the brake band or a blocked hydralic line to it in the valve body. Checking line pressure on the brake band line would pinpoint the problem.
Valve body is replaceable with the tranny in the car...

Flushing ATF is a crap shot, but it may work.
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  #23  
Old 02-27-2003, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gcookaustin


I just got back from the dealer, and the person who drove the car said that there are definitely serious tranny problems there. He stated that he believes that it is due to the gaskets in the transmission. I had them call the warranty company, who said that they will find a *used* transmission within a week to put into the car. Better than nothing, and if it breaks again then I guess the warranty company will have to redo.
Hope you get a good fix on it Garrett

Joe

PS: if changing tranny for a second hand one, make sure the shop knows there is an aircon freon line somewhere near the housing. My aircon is not working right since getting the tranny done.
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2003, 04:51 AM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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G. Cook Austin,


That's a very good point.
I have heard about messed up AC alot after tranny replacement . First on the old KC site, then on the Yahoo SVX Club site, now here at the Network.

Thank you for bringing it up.
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2003, 03:13 PM
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I spoke to another Trany guy, and he told me that most trany shops are very unlikely to try any simpler fixes, in other words he says if I want these items checked, I'd have to do them myself.
I'm going to see if I can drop the pan, change some oil and see the condition of the components, it there is any build up, then I'll close it up, and just keep driving. If the trany looks perfect, then I will attempt to repair what I can, but this is a role of the dice, as I could cause more damage.

If there is some-one who has some pics of what the pump gasket and valve body lookes like thru the pan, I'd appreciate it.

But I'm also calling my trusted mechanic to just do the swap of Subaru dealer Refurb'd trany, as he could probably get the part and install it for the price I was given just for the part. Which is a whole lot easier, than rolling the dice with a DIY fix.

BTW, the problems I have are reduced a lot by removing the resistor, which does point towards the leaking Pump gasket.
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2003, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryIII
I have heard about messed up AC alot after tranny replacement . First on the old KC site, then on the Yahoo SVX Club site, now here at the Network.
Been there. My R12 was missing after the dealership replaced the tranny before I bought the car.
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2003, 08:52 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Low line pressure.

The description is not the best, though the lack of go is not from the torque converter.
I think the trouble is the pump gasket, that is dropping the line pressure at idle. Beav is on the money, maybe not sucking air as much as dropping pressure.

When the engine is idling the line pressure is lowered, When you hit the go pedal the A solenoid increases the pressure and away you go.

The trouble with the low line pressure, is that the 'low and reverse clutch' is not applied quickly enough, to prevent the gear train from rotating backwards, so nothing happens till the clutch applies and away you go.

The effect of no engine braking, in selected 1st gear, also shows up the low and reverse clutch, as the throttle is closed, the line pressure is reduced as normal. The lower pressure is not locking up the clutch so no engine braking happens.

The box has to come out, the pump gasket could be fixed without doing the rest. Though you must expect that at least this clutch will have appreciable wear so it would not be a long term fix.

All the best mate.

Harvey.
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  #28  
Old 02-28-2003, 09:38 AM
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Makes sence too me, well, since I have the same type of issues, I think I'll drive the car for now, and when it gets worse...and I have saved the money...I'll swap in a dealer rebuild unit.
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  #29  
Old 03-01-2003, 12:58 AM
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Chris,

You understand that the tranny is in self-destruct mode, you will not get many miles out of it, and rebuilding this particular tranny will not be a cheap option.

I tend to join the opinion that the low line pressure is the culprit.
Can you find a mechanic who would agree to do a line pressure test and to replace the oil pump gasket if line pressure shows the problem? It is tranny remove&replace exercise, but the gasket is way cheaper than the new tranny...

Yes, most transmission shops will not do any small repairs - their solution is to offer a rebuild on any reason. Feels like a combination of liability and making-money issues.
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  #30  
Old 03-01-2003, 01:17 AM
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Yes, I understand that if I can find a trany guy to test and repair the low pressure issue I could be done. But if the trany has 68k miles on it, should I invest in some re and re time, some parts and labour and hope that this is the only problem?

I may save a few grand. It may be worth another look.
I'll call around and see if I can get a mechanic to do this work, and see what it would cost. I'm not sure what I will find, so wish me luck. I will refer to information in this and other posts to assist in the process, so thanks for the help. I'll post what I can find.
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