Low Oil level and the EG33

SoCal LS-L · #1 03-10-2010, 07:37 PM

Any time I go for a few days without topping off my oil, I can immediately tell on startup that I am at the low mark on my dipstick. Even though im still between the lines, my car chatters and taps when the oil level gets to the lowest part of the hatchmarks.

Is there some part of the engine I am oil starving by letting it get to the low mark?? Or is my engine just smart enough to make more noise when it needs something? The last time it even kicked over and revved real slow for a few seconds like it was frictioning on the walls....... and ive never let it get out of the hatchmarks.

My car never used to burn a drop of oil out in the thick SoCal air...... but now that im in the mountains, and climbing them at 4000-5000rpm I guess I better be a more avid oil checker.

immortal_suby · #2 03-11-2010, 03:06 PM

what type and grade of oil are you using?

benebob · #3 03-11-2010, 03:08 PM

Every few days?

What immortal said! Might be time for some thicker oil!

lhopp77 · #4 03-11-2010, 04:02 PM

I don't think the altitude has anything to do with it. My house is at 7500 feet and none of mine use any oil (SVXs or Fords).

Lee

SoCal LS-L · #5 03-11-2010, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lhopp77

I don't think the altitude has anything to do with it. My house is at 7500 feet and none of mine use any oil (SVXs or Fords).

Lee

I mean as far as the performance of the engine, I have to rev it higher to climb grades up here.... higher gears just dont cut it.

As far as the oil, I use 10w30 synthetic.... I would love to go to a 20w50 as soon as the temperatures here start hanging above freezing.

Im also thinking that using engine braking in 3 or 2 down the steep grades may have something to do with it too..... I just cant understand why it clatters and taps before even getting low.

benebob · #6 03-11-2010, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

I just cant understand why it clatters and taps before even getting low.

Stuck lifter or valve is a possiblity. Most older subies love a risoline additive or valve medic every couple of oil changes. Keeps 'em from sounding too tractor like.

immortal_suby · #7 03-13-2010, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benebob

Stuck lifter or valve is a possiblity. Most older subies love a risoline additive or valve medic every couple of oil changes. Keeps 'em from sounding too tractor like.

Yep - before your next oil change try a motor oil cleaner. Works wonders.

NiftySVX · #8 03-13-2010, 08:39 AM

It's the hydraulic lifters. One or more are not maintaining the oil inside them anymore, causing it to collapse when the engine is off. this is common on this engine and I have not heard an EG33 that doesn't have at least one ticking on startup since the 90s.

These engines don't run much oil pressure at idle and if you have any main or rod bearings worn it will reduce it to almost nothing at idle. I have a main gone and my car only has about 3 psi at idle when warm, which is about half what it should be on a new engine. (it's been running this way for 10 years and 70,000 miles). So I wouldn't worry about it. Just run 10w-30 conventional or blend on a stock motor and change it every 3-4k and use a HIGH QUALITY filter, like a genuine subaru one and it will run forever.

Subix · #9 03-13-2010, 09:34 AM

I'm not sure how much it matters or whatever but I've been using full synthetic 5w30 since I've had mine. Not really sure what or why made me go that route but I have been. The only time I really notice the ticker sound is if the oil is actually getting somewhat low, which is rare, since I change usually at around every 6-8k miles and use premium filters.

In a way I'm sort of surprised, I know I've read saying that the engine guzzles oil but thankfully, so far, mine doesn't? I dunno... maybe everyone else had some leak issues going on too or something.

ensteele · #10 03-13-2010, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subix

In a way I'm sort of surprised, I know I've read saying that the engine guzzles oil but thankfully, so far, mine doesn't? I dunno... maybe everyone else had some leak issues going on too or something.

Leaks are common, but I have not heard of a high oil useage. Leaks would be what I would think would cause a high oil consumption.

NiftySVX · #11 03-13-2010, 02:22 PM

5/30 is not recommended for subarus of this vintage, and the SVX o/m specifically warns about it. I can't recall why. 10w30 is the way to go.

svxistentialist · #12 03-13-2010, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NiftySVX

5/30 is not recommended for subarus of this vintage, and the SVX o/m specifically warns about it. I can't recall why. 10w30 is the way to go.

It doesn't actually say why.

From the manual:

CAUTION:
SAE 5W-30 is not recommended for sustained high speed driving

The chart outlines use of 5W-30 from -45 deg C to 0 deg C, so you could assume for winter use, or primarily for winter use in cold regions.

The chart recommends 10W-30 or 10W-40 in temperatures from -27 deg C to +41 deg C.

As Nifty says 10W-30 is probably the way to go. It should have lower viscosity that will be a help to improve mpg, a little.

10W-40 is probably the correct way to go on an older high miles engine. Or possibly if you tend to sustain high speeds across deserts or stuff.

Joe

92 SVX · #13 03-13-2010, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

It doesn't actually say why.

From the manual:

CAUTION:
SAE 5W-30 is not recommended for sustained high speed driving

The chart outlines use of 5W-30 from -45 deg C to 0 deg C, so you could assume for winter use, or primarily for winter use in cold regions.

The chart recommends 10W-30 or 10W-40 in temperatures from -27 deg C to +41 deg C.

As Nifty says 10W-30 is probably the way to go. It should have lower viscosity that will be a help to improve mpg, a little.

10W-40 is probably the correct way to go on an older high miles engine. Or possibly if you tend to sustain high speeds across deserts or stuff.

Joe

I wish I had got a manual with my car. Good stuff to know. I have been running 5w-30 synthetic in mine, granted the temps are low enough, until the last couple of days its been well under 0 C.
I would like to add though with synthetic oil it does not lose/add viscosity because of the cold/heat, you could run 10w-30 in all temps it will still flow smooth it is not supposed to thicken.

NiftySVX · #14 03-13-2010, 03:04 PM

I suspect it will be too thin under load and can cause bearing damage. If I were guessing. I run 10-30, or 10-40 in the summer if i happen to think about it and buy it. I just use conventional penz.. I know people hate on it but it's as good as any. I did a reaseal at 120 k and everything was clean, no sludge.

If you change it every 3-5k, any old conventional oil will do. Synthetic is a waste of money unless your engine requires it.

92 SVX · #15 03-13-2010, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NiftySVX

I suspect it will be too thin under load and can cause bearing damage. If I were guessing. I run 10-30, or 10-40 in the summer if i happen to think about it and buy it. I just use conventional penz.. I know people hate on it but it's as good as any. I did a reaseal at 120 k and everything was clean, no sludge.

If you change it every 3-5k, any old conventional oil will do. Synthetic is a waste of money unless your engine requires it.

I like it because in the cold it does not thicken, nor does it thin when it gets real warm. Where I live we have extreme cold and heat. Summer has gotten up to 120F granted that is not normal, but we do see over 100F and winter we routinely do get -30 to -45F and have seen -60F I like not having to worry about the oil not flowing on cold starts.